Before I start clutch work....

[Big T]

While you're in there, confirm that the hub nut is tight

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Will do. Any thoughts on the other stuff, Big T?

 

[rphillips]

I didn't remember seeing those notches on any of the clutch plates I've dealt with, just went out & looked at an old set in the garage & they don't have them. Just guessing yours are not OEM. Your plates don't look glazed at all, but a little rub with some 200 or finer sandpaper, on both sides, won't hurt a thing. Grooves in hub just look normal, to me. Also just to say, my wife has a Kawasaki ZL600 Eliminator. She had trouble pulling the clutch lever. I removed 3 of the 6 clutch springs so it would be more comfortable for her. I rode it pretty hard, trying to feel the clutch slipping, to be sure it wasn't causing any problems. In my testing I never felt it slip even at over 100 mph in 5th gear. Good luck

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I found a full 8 disc set of OEM friction drive plates on eBay for @$60 delivered. That’s half of what I saw them sold for elsewhere. Hopefully they’re the real deal. Then I’ll at least know I’m putting good plates back in.

 

[Carter Turk]

, I?d like a good aftermarket recommendation.

I've used FBG (Fast by Gast) fibers in the past with good results, that is if the 750 uses the same clutch plates as a 1100.

I thought it did, but could be wrong, it's been 37 years since I had my 1980 GS 750.

They were recommended for being similar to OEM, more so than Barnett or EBC.

You already found replacements anyway, but for future reference $9ea.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

$9 x 8 = $72 plus tax and shipping = @$80. So more than I spent. But I’ll keep it in mind. Thanks Carter.

 

[bwringer]

I've used EBC clutch fiber plates with no issues on various bikes when OEM wasn't available.

Vesrah has also worked OK, but that was many years ago, before Vesrah's general quality went into the crapper. I would not risk any Vesrah components nowadays.


But I'll splash out for OEM every time if I can get them. As Baatfam mentioned, that's what the drag racers use.

I've encountered a few bikes with Barnett "extra plate" clutch kits installed back in the day, and they're absolutely dreadful. They can also damage the clutch hub. No idea why people thought these things were the hot ticket. The '80s were a weird time...


Anyway, your clutch hub looks great, so I suspect new OEM fiber plates and OEM springs will make you very happy.

I'd also replace the clutch cable with new OEM; even if yours is original, I bet a new one will have much lower friction. Well worth the modest cost. (Aftermarket cables are junk... don't even go there.) It'll be like buttuh. Replace the lever with new OEM (yep, aftermarket levers are pure junk) while you're at it, too -- quite often the cable hole is worn egg-shaped, which causes friction and can break the cable.

And since we're on the topic, only use OEM gaskets. If you coat both sides of the gasket with a bit of grease, you can re-use it many times (not that you'll need to). Aftermarket gaskets are often thinner, which can goof up the spacing for the shifter shaft and cause other issues.


Your bike has the actuator in the clutch cover, and these are generally trouble-free.

For other GS models with the actuator on the other side of the bike under the sprocket cover, it's important to disassemble, clean, and regrease these mechanisms once every generation or so. After 40 years or so, the grease turns into filthy solid ear wax and clutch action gets very difficult.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Thanks all
Still waiting for the sixth OEM clutch spring ordered from Partsoutlaw on 3/30. Got 5, I’m sure due to pandemic.
Have OEM Gasket (2 actually)
OEM clutch drive friction plates in transit
Have cleaned and scuffed original steel driven plates, will reuse these, And install all w/flat side out.
New OEM clutch cable just ordered (good advice, Thanks Brian)

One question remains for which I have not found an answer. The notches on the ends on the claws of the driver plates. I just have to thing that there is some significance to their orientation, though the ones I removed were seemingly random.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I either need to go back to work soon, or some ordered parts better start arriving or I?m gonna end up polishing everything it?s far from perfect, but best I can do right now.

 

[bonanzadave]

For discussion only. I know nothing about this product....

https://www.denniskirk.com/ebc/srk-race-sport-series-clutch-kit-srk50.p383708.prd/383708.sku

I have FBG plates in mine. The process is out lined at Cliffs place.....

http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/storagecliff/images/clutch_odds-n-ends.html

 

[bwringer]

Also, that Wally World motorcycle oil should be good stuff. Super Tech oils, and most store brand oil, for that matter, is made by Warren Distributing, and is well-known to be excellent quality stuff.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Thanks for that confirmation Brian. I’ve suspected it was ok. But I don’t know anyone else who uses it and haven’t seen any mention if it on the forum.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Clutch friction plates, all 6 new springs, and new clutch cable have arrived. Plates are soaking in oil. New friction plates do not have notches in the claw ends that I was worried about clocking in a particular way. I want to install the new cable. It's pretty straightforward. But, looking at my manual's cable routing guide, it seems I'm missing the guide that keeps the clutch cable away from the valve cover. There is a slight burn on the original cable in this location so I want to put something there. Maybe bend up a piece of wire hanger. I do have the guide at the bottom and between carbs 1&2 that keeps the cable away from the carbs.

Does anyone know or can measure the thickness of this guide, and how far it should hold the cable away from the valve cover. Wire hanger sound like a good idea? Maybe it's not that important.

Thanks all.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

This might work

 

[Big T]

I hope you made the big hole large enough for the cable ends to pass thru

And, remember to reset the clutch arm to the correct position

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I did. It’s on the cable. Valve covers is off so can’t completely check the fit but I think it’ll work. Plates are in. Took a dinner/ beer break. Then back to fit the cover.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Just wanted to post a follow-up to finish out this thread. New OEM Clutch friction plates (I re-used the steels), New OEW Clutch springs, and New OEW Clutch cable, New OEM gasket installed. Everything buttoned up. No surprises. Clutch cable play properly adjusted. The bike did lurch into first with the lever pulled on the first star-up. But the bike had been sitting on the side stand for a few days since I put everything in. So imagine everything was pretty dry, even though I did put the plates in wet.

After that, All shifting was smooth, and no more lurching when kicking it down to first form a stop sign. Took about a half-hour ride and when I brought it back to the garage, found that I could even walk the bike backwards in first with the clutch pulled in. I had a real hard time doing that before. ALL GOOD. Thanks All!

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I have spoken too soon. Was riding for about 1-1/2 hours today. Twice I noticed my throttle seemed to hang. So I pulled out from a stop sign to head home. Went to shift into second, didn’t get it all the way past neutral, I think and the RPMs shot up way past redline, heard an awful rattle from the engine, I hit the run switch to off and pulled into a parking lot. Started the bike, awful rattle ensued. Limped for about 1/2 mile the the bike wouldn’t stay running.

Called a buddy with a trailer. Good thing he wasn’t working, I guess. Got it home and immediately pull the clutch apart. Everything seemed fine there. I thought for sure I screwed up something there. Nope.

So I thought I’d check the throttle. Sure enough, the nifty little piece I made from a wire hanger, that my bike has lived without for 15 years, was pushing the throttle cable too far between carbs 1&2 so that it cases the throttle linkage to hang up.

I am so afraid that I’m going to have to pull the head and inspect. I think I just killed my engine.:frown-new:

I have no idea what to do next. Looking for educated guidance and suggestions.

Before I pulled the clutch cover, when I tried to start it, engine cranked but sounded gutless.

To say my confidence in my mechanic skills is shaken would be an understatement. Should have thought to check proper throttle cable operation before heading out.

FML:torn:

 

[Rob S.]

...way past redline...killed my engine.:frown-new:

So sad. These beasts usually survive trespasses into the red. The only advice I can offer is from a 1978 movie. Remember what Bluto said to Flounder when he returned from the "Road Trip?"

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

This one?
And it ain't over now. 'Cause when the goin' gets tough . . . the tough get goin'! Who's with me? Let's go! C'mon!