Best fix for screw in tire?

[OneStaple]

Hey,

Much to my dismay, I found a screw in my front tire last night. It's not too worn down, so I don't think it's been in there for too long (I've probably been riding about 3 miles a day for the past week). I haven't noticed any decrease in air pressure for the tire either. What's the best way to fix this? Get someone to patch it from the inside? Plug it with a kit from an auto store? Replace the tire (it has about 7000 miles on it and is 3.5 years old)? The rear tire is older and more worn out, so it needs to be replaced anyway.

Thanks!
--Tyler

 

[KGB]

Replace the tire

See those little cracks in the tread? not a godo idea and not good for
treaction.........
Get some new tires

 

[marvinsc]

I agree with Keith, That Tire is About Due for a Changeout. If Money is an Issue, Chen Sheng Hi Max tires are Pretty Economical and Give a Lot of Bang for the Buck. J. C. Whitney and Others Carry them.

 

[rphillips]

Me too!! For a shop to repair it properly, you'll probably have nearly half as many $$ in that old tire as a pretty decent new would cost.

 

[deves3000gt]

Replace it. i just got tires to fix my 750 from bike bandit for $38 dollors. how do you go wrong with that?

 

[bwringer]

New tire!

That tire is a wheezing relic from the '80s anyway. It was manufactured more recently, of course, but judging from the tread pattern, it's a very old design.

Slap a more modern tire on there and enjoy the difference. Heck, while you're at it, go nuts and replace the rear tire too.

Cheng Shin HiMax tires give fantastic performance and life for not much money.

If you can spend a bit more, Pirelli Sport Demons are top off the line for pure performance on vintage bikes, and Dunlop Elite III or GS501 seem to be favorites for mileage with grip.

 

[duaneage]

If you insist on keeping that antique tire you could slap a tube in there after removing the screw. I would tube a relatively new tire but not one with less than half tread and obvious age.

your tire has obvious age and less than 50% remaining.

 

[Clone]

NEW TIRE! That tire is more weathered than my tire was when it blew last year.

 

[Suzuki mad]

I'm with the others on this. New tyre.

Bought my GS1000E 2 years ago with Pirelli Phantoms Mk11 on (1980's tyres) and changd them after a few miles ride. What a difference.

Suzuki mad

1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200K1

 

[jimcor]

Yeah, I wouldn't waste a string/rope plug on that tire, looks rock hard from the pics. For grins you could try to unscrew it to see if it punched all the way thru, but you'd still be left with a front tire with a weak spot. (Shiver!)

 

[Planecrazy]

I'll join the chorus ... GET A NEW TIRE - RUN, DON'T WALK, TO THE NEW TIRE STORE!! If you showed me that tire with NO screw in it I'd tell you you're gambling with your life by riding on it.

Let me put it this way ... How much is your life worth? On a car you can often get away unscathed when one of four tires blows, but on a bike those little contact patches are the only thing between you and disaster! Riding on an old hard tire like that is just asking for trouble. Spending even several hundred bucks on the best tires you can find is CHEAP life insurance!!

Once you've swapped the old for the new (ANY new tire) you will be amazed at the entirely new and different bike you're riding! I know this from experience. My old Dunlops looked fine, but were old and hard (I had no clue either, so don't feel bad). Last year I sprung for a nice new pair of Pirelli Sport Demons and I kid you not when I say the performance improvement was truly like riding an entirely new sportbike compared to what it was before!! No matter what you put on your bike you will not be disappointed, but more importantly you will immediately feel the confidence that comes from knowing you're riding a much much safer bike!

Sorry to sound preachy, but there is simply no excuse for neglecting the most important part of any motorcycle.

Ride Safe!

 

[Steve]

The screw might not be "too worn down", but look at what is holding it. :shock:
The screw just happens to be in one of the tread wear indicator bars. There is not much tread sticking out above it.
That alone would justify a new tire.

From what I have been reading on this board, 7,000 miles is "decent" mileage, and...
that alone would justify a new tire.

The tire "is 3.5 years old". Does that mean that the date code shows it was manufactured 3.5 years ago, or was it installed 3.5 years ago? I have seen "new" tires that had a 2-year-old date code. (Do you know how to read the code?)
That alone would justify a new tire.

Anbody that makes or recommends a tire plug also states that they are not to be used in the sidewalls or near the edge of the tread. Guess where your screw is?
That alone would justify a new tire.

"The rear tire is older and more worn out..."
Personally, I would not be bragging about that.
That justifies TWO new tires.


OK, is FIVE reasons enough, or do I need to continue?


Now, back to the intent of your original question...
I have had good success in using the "sticky rope" plugs that are available at auto parts stores. Splurge. Get the $7 kit that has the T-shaped handles, the glue and a bunch of "ropes". Make sure you use plenty of glue when you insert the rope, it acts as a lubricant, making the job easier and more effective. Small enough to carry in your tool kit for emergency repairs on the side of the road.

It it were my tire in the picture, would I plug/patch it?

NO WAY, NO HOW. [-X

If you want to do it to YOUR bike, just let me know where you intend to ride, so I can stay WELL out of your way and warn any friends or relatives that I might have near there.


Enjoy your new tires.


.

 

[OneStaple]

Thanks for all the replies. When I took that picture of the front tire with the screw and saw the small cracks up close, I had this feeling that the tire needed replacing. For the rear tire, the treads are a little more worn down, but the rubber seems better, but I plan on replacing that one anyway. I'll swap both out as soon as possible.

And thanks for the hints on the Cheng Shin HiMax tires. I don't want to go real cheap for safety reasons, but also don't have a bunch of money to spend on this, as I'm still in school.

Thanks again!
--Tyler

 

[OneStaple]

One other question for swapping the tires. From the microfiche schematics, it seems like the bike uses tubes in the tires. Is it possible to swap to tubeless, or should I only look at tubed tires? (The Cheng Shin HiMax at Bike Bandit are all tubeless). Is there a benefit to one over the other?

Thanks
--Tyler

 

[jimcor]

One other question for swapping the tires. From the microfiche schematics, it seems like the bike uses tubes in the tires. Is it possible to swap to tubeless, or should I only look at tubed tires? (The Cheng Shin HiMax at Bike Bandit are all tubeless). Is there a benefit to one over the other?

Thanks
--Tyler

You'll have no trouble using a tube in the Hi Max. Don't bother looking for a tube type tire, stay with modern rubber designs. Tube type tires are usually for really picky retro types and have retro tread design...like your current front tire.

 

[Planecrazy]

If you go tubeless (which is preferable) you MIGHT have to modify your wheels to accept the tubeless valve stems. This is NOT difficult to do ... just time consuming, as it involves grinding down the area around the valve stem hole so that a tubeless stem will seat properly and not leak. I've helped do a few over the past few years with excellent results. If you're lucky your bike may already have been converted.

If you don't have the tools, time, or confidence to do it yourself you can probably get the tire shop to do it for you.

Regards,

 

[jimcor]

Had to break and look at your sig, check your bike type...same as mine.

The wheels on the 80s model did come standard with tubes. You can put a valve stem in the wheel and run a tubeless tire without a tube, but sometimes they tend to be porous and leak air, if you try it 'you pays your money and takes your chances'. Also there is debate whether the wheel is a 'safety rim' type or in the event of a blowout would the tire slip from the bead. IMHO, let me stress that, MHO. If it slips off the rim or doesn't, does it matter? If you get a blowout, hang on and pray. I have ridden the bike tubeless for many miles. Presently though, it does have a Hi Max with a tube in it. My back tire is a Cheng Shin Marquis which I am running tubeless.

 

[jimcor]

If you go tubeless (which is preferable) you MIGHT have to modify your wheels to accept the tubeless valve stems. This is NOT difficult to do ... just time consuming, as it involves grinding down the area around the valve stem hole so that a tubeless stem will seat properly and not leak. I've helped do a few over the past few years with excellent results. If you're lucky your bike may already have been converted.

If you don't have the tools, time, or confidence to do it yourself you can probably get the tire shop to do it for you.

Regards,

I never did this modification. I just used a straight metal valve stem with a gasket (supplied with the stem) on both the inside and the outside of the wheel. No grinding was neccessary.

 

[argonsagas]

You have received a nice warning that is for your own safety. Heed the warning.

That tire is very far past its prime and is not capable of giving decent performance, which means your safety is compromised by continuing to use it.


Dump the tire.

Do not attempt to repair it, just dump it and get a new one.
You and the rest of your life deserve it.

 

[earlfor]

A screw in a tire, you replace it. That tire shows aging and cracking which also says the rubber has hardened and traction is poor. Even without the screw in it, you couldnt PAY me to ride on that tire. BUY a NEW TIRE, or make sure your medical insurance and mortuary expenses are paid up. You're going to need one of them.

E.