GabrielGoes
Forum Mentor
After carefully replacing the caliper piston seals the issue has been resolved. Thank you all!
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Brakes not building pressure
- Thread starter GabrielGoes
- Start date
Thanks for the follow-up!
Too often, we never hear the end of the story and so only one person learns something.
What do you think was the root of the issue? I believe you were suspicious of the grease, and I'd have to agree that anything but brake fluid in the system is a big no-no.
Too often, we never hear the end of the story and so only one person learns something.
What do you think was the root of the issue? I believe you were suspicious of the grease, and I'd have to agree that anything but brake fluid in the system is a big no-no.
I totally agree with this statement, but when I had to replace some caliper parts from a Brembo supplier, he stated I should use the "Brembo" paste that goes with the rubber seals.
I told him I would stick with the proven brake fluid.
GabrielGoes
Forum Mentor
-the piston seals being compromised
-I went in so many circles with this darn job i have to say there were probably many factors to attribute to the issue, master cylinder and seals probably the biggest.
And yes, the grease solidified and became really nasty goopy solidified brown stuff possibly compromising the hydraulic seal.
This is a good tutorial for anybody doing brakes......good read.
KiwiAlfa156
Forum Mentor
Red rubber grease (which is non-mineral based) doesn't damage caliper seals and is compatible with DOT3/4 and 5.1 brake fluid. And is readily available.
It took me ages to discover that sticking calipers seals caused excessive lever travel, because we all 'know' that spongy brakes 'must be' air in the lines. Irrespective of the fact I knew I had bled the brakes correctly. It was actually reading a post on another forum that helped me solve the problem.
GabrielGoes
Forum Mentor
Yeah I saw that red rubber grease offered in some brake kits. I'll probably still stay away considering I'm already going to get messy with dot fluid anyways and that's what all the old timers told me to use lol.
I will have to experiment how that red grease reacts to brake fluid in a controlled environment - If it immediately dissipates than maybe i can trust it...
Also as another follow up my lever got soft again lol, this time i noticed it looking wet around some of the banjo crush washers.... of course...
I replaced every single one with a new copper one. the old ones were silver colored - i am assuming aluminum.
Zip tied my lever overnight - its been 2 days and so far it is remaining very nice !
I also noticed the left caliper had a mini pool of brake fluid fountain sitting in the tip of the bleeder screw, I'm going to replace that thing too - luckily they sell those bleeders at autozone
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KiwiAlfa156
Forum Mentor
This is vid may be helpful. As it shows how the piston has to be able to slide through the seal in order to rest at the correct (retracted) distance from the pad. Excessive lever is caused by the piston sticking in the square seal, not slipping through the piston and being retracted too far from the pad. Brake binding is caused by binding pistons.
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GabrielGoes
Forum Mentor
That is a good video refresher!
Just for clarity purposes - In this case the NO lever was caused due to a compromised seal that failed to hold hydraulic pressure
Just for clarity purposes - In this case the NO lever was caused due to a compromised seal that failed to hold hydraulic pressure
GabrielGoes
Forum Mentor
In regards to brake piston seal orientation there is a cupped / tapered end and a wide mouth end.
I just did a caliper job for a friend's - owned since new- road king - which never had these serviced. and you can clearly harley davidson's factory put the wide mouth end of the seals outwards (towards the pad) and the skinner tapered end Towards the bore of the caliper on all 8 pistons on the 2x calipers.
i am beginning to think that is actually the correct orientation.
I have looked for a long time to find this in print/writing for any manufacturers factory service manuals and ended up with only finding people's opinions.
I know its harley davidson
but I will trust thejr judgment in this if this is how they do it from factory.
I just did a caliper job for a friend's - owned since new- road king - which never had these serviced. and you can clearly harley davidson's factory put the wide mouth end of the seals outwards (towards the pad) and the skinner tapered end Towards the bore of the caliper on all 8 pistons on the 2x calipers.
i am beginning to think that is actually the correct orientation.
I have looked for a long time to find this in print/writing for any manufacturers factory service manuals and ended up with only finding people's opinions.
I know its harley davidson
but I will trust thejr judgment in this if this is how they do it from factory.Similar threads
