• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Cams

RacingJake

Forum Sage
Hi gang

Installed the V&H pro pipe on my 82 1100E and the bike sounds great. What would you recommend for a cam change? Bike is still at 9.5 to 1.

Thanks
RacingJake
 
Stock! I guess what I'm saying is why bother to put in just a set of cams in a street bike thats this old?
 
Re: Cams

RacingJake said:
Hi gang

Installed the V&H pro pipe on my 82 1100E and the bike sounds great. What would you recommend for a cam change? Bike is still at 9.5 to 1.

Thanks
RacingJake
What did you do to the carbs and are you running a baffel of any type???
 
cams

cams

a set of mild cams would sharpen the motor a little. in yoshi they would be road/track grind .don't worry about compression ratio its ok, suits road use .high comp is really for drag strip
ozman
 
I think what needs to be taken into consideration is what gains you would get out of cams. When you build a motor it is the sum of all modifications that makes a difference.

You will possibly notice a slight gain with cams. New caburators a bit more. Head work, more yet. And the list goes on. Every modification that you make will help - in sum. By themselves they do not do much at all.

You may get 5 Hp or so with cams at a pricetag of $350 or more. Another $50 for slotted sprockets that will get you another 3 or so HP.

I think it is wise to understand how far you want to go on mods before you start down that path. Have a plan and stick with it or else you will spend a ton of money and not get all you want.
 
Currently running bigger jets, K&N filters and no exhaust baffel. Installed a 16 inch wheel from another suzuki for drag racing. May install a nitrous kit in the winter. Goal is to break into the 6's and top 100 mph in the 1/8 mile.

RacingJake
82 1100E
 
RacingJake said:
Currently running bigger jets, K&N filters and no exhaust baffel. Installed a 16 inch wheel from another suzuki for drag racing. May install a nitrous kit in the winter. Goal is to break into the 6's and top 100 mph in the 1/8 mile.

RacingJake
82 1100E
If you are just racing the bike and not riding it on the street then something a little hotter in cams would help out.-- if you are driving on the street and want some sanity thern go with the recomended milder cams. what times are you doing in the 1/8 now and what type of rear tire are you using.--Have you changed your chain and sprockest at all yet??
 
So far I've run 7.48 at 93 mph, 60 foot at 1.88, 330 at 4.86 and crossing the line in 3rd gear. Currently it has a 15 T up front and a 42 T rear. Street tire size is a 120 on the stock rim. Ran a 14 T once and it pull hard in first gear, I was doing roll on wheelies at any rpm in first. I may try it again and run a 41 T rear for a 2.92 ratio and see whats happens. Our track is 1/8 mile concret and they use's alot of VHT so traction is not a problem. I think stock cams run around 280 lift and I was thinking a 340 lift would work without to many mods.

Thanks
RacingJake
 
So if I run a 20 HP shot of nitrous, how much time would I drop and how much MPH could I gain ???
350 dollars for cams that only give me 5 more HP, I think I'll go the nitrous route.

RacingJake
 
If you can't keep the bike down using lower gears, you'll have the same problem with nitrous. You may want to extend the swingarm, lower the gears, and see what happens. Granted, that's a bigger task then cams or nitrous, but your et may fall more too. Of course while you're at it you could set it up to take a larger tire, cause once you get the wheelie under control, traction will be next.
 
RacingJake said:
So far I've run 7.48 at 93 mph, 60 foot at 1.88, 330 at 4.86 and crossing the line in 3rd gear.


ticket1.jpg


Me and my stock ESD was kicking your ass!!

:twisted: :twisted:

This is a stock bike, except for the pipe and jets. If the goal is just to get a higher top end, the N2O is fun to play with. I would get a longer swingarm, skinney tire, struts and a bar. Try to get the front end on the ground and get it to come out harder.
 
7.34 is all you got. Mine was 7.48 after twelve runs back to back with a air temp over 100 and a track temp over 140 during one of our hot Texas days. Try those conditions and see if your ESD bike can even brake into 7.80's. Come on down I got $100 says you'll most likely RED LIGHT.
 
RacingJake said:
7.34 is all you got. Mine was 7.48 after twelve runs back to back with a air temp over 100 and a track temp over 140 during one of our hot Texas days. Try those conditions and see if your ESD bike can even brake into 7.80's. Come on down I got $100 says you'll most likely RED LIGHT.
So many excuses why your so slow .... lashing out at my driving is not going to make you any faster. I had the same setup running the high 7.20s at the same track, but that is all shes got.
 
With a hand written time slip I must be back in the 70's again. Tell them to get with the program and invest in new timing equipment, you know the one with out tubes. Installed a lowering strap on the front end and there is no rebound at all. Looks like a 2-3 inch drop. Should be able to launch above 5K and get those 60 footer into 1.70's

RacingJake
 
RacingJake said:
With a hand written time slip I must be back in the 70's again. Tell them to get with the program and invest in new timing equipment, you know the one with out tubes.
RacingJake
:lol: :lol:
Yea, your close. These are not recent time tickets. I have not ran that bike in 15 years or so after the transmission went out. I'm not even sure if that track is still in operation. I was thinking to take it down to one of the small tracks around here just to play for a day. So, yea, to beat my times your up against some very old technology. I never tried a lowering strap.

The new AMA rules may be down loaded here if you have not read them:

http://www.amaprostar.com/noframe_rulebook.asp

Read section 2.3.2. "Artificial or temporary tie downs (, i.e. tie down straps, cables, limiter straps) are prohibited on front forks."

If your racing at a small mom and pop track with nixie tubes in the counter, there techs. may not check your strap and let you run with it. Seems like you would want to use a block instead, or just put a tire and set of bars on it.

If they do let you run with it, post your new times.
 
Our track won't mine. If the front straps work and there is'nt to much bounce at the front end during the end of a run, I'll pull the front springs out and slam it to the ground with another 2 more inches. Also install some rear struts today, 10 inches from eye to eye. Can't even used the kickstand now, half to use a brick under the frame. I'll let you know how it turns out.

RacingJake
On a 21 year old machine with 30,000 miles that still gives 600 Sport Bikes a run for their money :lol:
 
That's the nice thing about those small mom and pop strips. They let you try things out if you play it safe.

I did manage to turn this one up:

ticket10.jpg


A bit hard to read, but it's from 1987, 60' 1.867 versus your 1.88. Of course my trap speed is only 62MPH. 8O I think the tree was .5 seconds offset at this time, that or I had a few drinks the day before. :roll:

I think that dropping the bike down is going to help you to a point. But you may not be able to detect it depending how consistant you and the bike are. There is a a minimum 2" ground clearance requirement, with the riders weight on the bike. Do you care if the bike remains street legal? The stock 83 swing arm had just enough room to mount a small tire in it. Do you know if it is the same swing arm and brake as your 82 E?
 
I think the swingarms are the same. My old tire is 5 inches wide and I should be able to go with a 6 inch wide tire before having to use off set sprockets. My real problem maybe the rim, 17x 2.50.

RacingJake
 
I had a custom 18" rim and spokes made up to fit a Honda (no longer remember the bike) hub. I used a 7" skinny tire on it (PN 808-891-919). Tires may be found here: http://www.racegoodyear.com/products/racect14.html

The setup looks like this:

slick1.jpg


You can use the stock chain and brakes. Just pull the street tire and bolt it on. I did this back in 85 or so for around $400, including the tire. The tire was VERY tight and I had to make the brake arm braket to get a little more clearance. Check into the swingarm on yours and see if it's the same part number. Or the next time you have it apart, take some measurements. If it looks like it will fit, maybe we can work a deal, or I can look to see if I still have all of the information.
 
Back
Top