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Carb Synch

  • Thread starter Thread starter BigVic54
  • Start date Start date
B

BigVic54

Guest
I'd appreciate anyone's help on this.

I have a 1982 GS1000. I've read that people bench synch the carbs using a paper clip or piano wire. I can't get my carbs to close up that close. I could almost fit a pencil below the slide. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks
 
have you run the idle adjustment knob on the bottom between carbs 2 & 3 all the way down? sounds like you have the knob ran all the way in.
 
And, rather than use some arbitrary piece of hardware that might not get positioned EXACTLY the same from one carb to the next, why not just close them down as far as you can, but still leave a sliver of light around the edge? :-k

By bench synching with the "sliver of light" method, I have gotten VERY close on the vacuum sync.

.
 
And, rather than use some arbitrary piece of hardware that might not get positioned EXACTLY the same from one carb to the next, why not just close them down as far as you can, but still leave a sliver of light around the edge? :-k

By bench synching with the "sliver of light" method, I have gotten VERY close on the vacuum sync.

.

From Steves Photos

IMG_3451.jpg
 
Thanks, Wing. I am at work, don't have access to my photos. :oops:

EDIT: just checked out, I'm heading for home. :dancing:

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I use a piece of piano wire & turn the idle screw until it just releases from #3, then adjust the others with the 8mm size lock nut & screw the same so the wire just releases. That's pretty close to start with and do the running synch or run it like that if you don't have the tools
 
I bench sync'd a few weeks back using just closing them and feeling when they bottomed out, I was surprised how close I got them - only one required less than half a turn adjustment.

However - I only consider it a starting place as you should always vacuum sync with gauges asap to get the engine running smoothly and evenly
 
My carbs have a slide and not a butterfly. Should they be all the way down?
 
My carbs have a slide and not a butterfly. Should they be all the way down?
If you have stock carbs, there is a butterfly.

If you look in from the airbox side, you WILL see a slide, but between that and the exit of the carb into the intake runner, there is a butterfly. It will look a LOT like the picture that Wingsconsin posted in post #4.

The slides that you see are essentially a "variable venturi". The opening under that slide is controlled by vacuum which is generated by the amount of air rushing under the slide. At rest, there will be at least 1/4" of space under the slide.

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The butterfly is on the intake side of the carbs......this photo is of the opposite side.
 
I believe you. So I'm going to have to take them off to bench sync them. Or use a carb sync.

Should the the slides be adjusted?
 
Should the the slides be adjusted?
If the carbs have been recently rebuilt and the bike has already been run, there is no need to remove them to bench sync them.
The bench sync process is just to get them close enough to run after being fully disassembled.

The slides will "adjust" themselves based on how much air is flowing under them.

As long as the carbs are CLEAN (follow the tutorial), they will do their job with no input from you.

Do NOT take any shortcuts. Any shortcut taken is just another opportunity to do it over.

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Thanks to everyone, except the Tkent02; you're a condescending douche bag. You should shove your big ****ing hammer up your ass.

I have a manual. I have already dissembled the carbs, dipped them, replaced the o-rings and installed a Thunderslide. This isn't my first rodeo; I'm just not used to rice burners, I have Harleys. I also have a SyncPro and a Colortune to do a fine tune but I've read so many posts here about bench syncing that I thought I might be missing something. The bike starts but the #3 cylinder is cold. It has spark and the timing is right so I'm guessing carb.

Thanks again.
 
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