Cleaning female threads

[Theo]

I searched google and I searched this site but didn't find an answer to my question. I've been making great progess cleaning all the little bits of rust off of all the various parts, but I haven't quite figured out how to clean the rust from female threads. For little things like nuts, I can put that in a container of evapo-rust but I have things on the frame that can't be removed. Is there some sort of trick that I don't know about. Or should I just leave it and put some anti-seize on the male threads. Thanks.
-Theo

 

[Macguyver]

How to make your threads, well, bare.

How to make your threads, well, bare.

There are more than a few ways to clean female threads, my favorite is to use a small spray gun cleaning brush with some penetrating fluid.
Spray the inside of the threaded area, let it sit overnight to soak into all of the rust, then push the brush in all the way, and then "unscrew" the brush out of the hole. Repeat as needed, but most times it gets the threads clean on the first or second go. Just a quick blast with some brake clean afterwards to clean out any residue, and you are done.

I have also used pipe cleaner to do this, but a stiff bristle "mini bottle brush" type brush works best IMO since it scrubs the threads more.

You could also run a tap into the threads to clean them, then blow out the spoil from the tap with compressed air. Care must be taken when using this method to make sure you have the right tap, and don't cross thread it when starting it. Doesn't work so well in blind holes. (holes that don't go all the way through the material)

Best of luck, and feel free to ask if you have any more questions!

 

[Steve]

Depending on the size of the hole and what is crudding up the threads, Mac's suggestions are right on. I have also been known to use some carb spray, brake cleaner, WD-40, just about any solvent (depending on the material) that has a bit of pressure behind it to blast it clean. A very small wire wheel in a Dremel tool works well, too, if the hole is large enough. If you are trying to clean out a "blind" hole, you can also get some bottoming taps. They have cutting edges farther down the edges to clean out the threads just a little deeper. They are not so good for cutting new threads as they are not tapered enough, but they are great for cleaning out blind holes.

.

 

[Nessism]

Don't forget about running a tap though the threads too.

 

[Guest]

+1...running a tap through is worth a mention.*

 

[salty_monk]

if you don't have a tap you can cut a slot in a bolt (just deeper than the threads) at 90 degrees to the thread (i.e. straight up the bolt from tip towards the head) & then use it like a tap.

Will not work to tap a thread but for cleaning them out (rust, messy thread, Powder or paint residue) it works fine.

Poor man's tap I guess... The bonus with this is it's quite hard to b*gger up the thread further which is not the case with a tap.

Dan

 

[Guest]

Good idea Salty... some thread gauges have such a slot machined into them, to pick up chips/debris as they screw on. For a complete bike restoration, it is worthwhile, IMHO, to spring for a metric tap & die set, even a cheap-ish one from Harbor Freight/Princess Auto to chase/re-tap crusty hardware everywhere on the bike, along with liberal use of WD-40 / 3-in-1 oil etc. These sets are often on sale for $25 to $30, and work fine for this purpose, but have an apparent lifespan of exactly 2 1/2 uses before chipping out, if used to machine new threads in any material harder than cheese.

 

[oldgrumpy]

cleaning internal threads.........

cleaning internal threads.........

you can actually buy a thread chaser for internal threads,, they are not that expensive....any good engineering supplies may sell them...regards david

 

[Theo]

Awesome guys. That answers all of my questions and then some. So it seems pretty straight forward, just got to have the right tools. I'll head to the hardware store tomorrow and see what I can pick up. Thanks for all of the great info.
-Theo

 

[jakeolsen]

You can also just buy brushes. I use these at work all the time for our Caterpillar military service centers. They clean every bit of everything out of the threads. Most of the time there is no need for a tap. Although, I would have to say you really can't beat a tap with a little wd40 to clean up a thread on a hole that goes through all the way. Just make sure to blow it out with air after in any case.

P.S. the brushes look like this, and can be had in various sizes.

 

[Guest]

Grease the right size tap and away you go.

 

[bonanzadave]

Chuck up some various size gun cleaning brushes in a screw gun. Spray some LPS 3 on the brush.

 

[posplayr]

These things work great; If you buy a box of 36 they are about $1 a piece.

The bristles never come out; they will bend first. The plastic handle means you can really apply some pressure. When A/C stripper would not remove the final bits of powder coat off my 3 spoke wheels, I used the SS brush to bush out the last bits. Tedious but did not have to media blast and got the wheels about as clean as possible.

http://www.autopia.org/shopping/pro...ainless-Steel-Detailing-Brush-Case-of-36.html

 

[Guest]

These things work great; If you buy a box of 36 they are about $1 a piece.

Cool, but I don't think those are intended for use on nuts etc... probably work well in lieu of sandpaper though. I have a couple, but haven't used them as yet.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Guys I'm not sure that having threads about women that clean or lack thereof is really a good... Ohhhh I see now. Heh.

 

[posplayr]

Cool, but I don't think those are intended for use on nuts etc... probably work well in lieu of sandpaper though. I have a couple, but haven't used them as yet.

Most steel stuff will cleans up with some evaporust, stainless steel brush or buffer and rouge; Those are my primary tools for nuts and bolts that have not already been replaced with stainless H/W.

I just find I'm using these brushes alot and mainly for cleaning little things without busting out the media blaster. :-&