• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Crank welding needed with big bore kit?

  • Thread starter Thread starter robertob
  • Start date Start date
You want to go fast and make power it costs $$$$$$ and it cost`s more money when things go BOOM.

That says a lot!!! I just took about 40 pounds of scrap metel (GS motor parts) to the recycle bins. Getting an ed ja ma cation costs money on these things!
 
Say Lecroy. Not to interupt the thread, but do you have a number for that shop? Do they do just normal boring and stuff? Ive got a 750 motor that eventually i would like to do a bore kit on, but i dont know of or trust any shops around here to do the milling and what not. I live in Dayton obviously, so i was just curious. Thanks!

TCK
 
I have been using John Pearson (Pearson Racing) in Dayton Ohio. He does very good work as well.

I thought someone bought Stan's business? Is he still running it?


I used John Pearson racing for my crank this winter. Schnitz Racing reccomended him.
 
I am a geek and have been to Dayton several times, if you know what I mean.... LOL.

We found John by a fluke. He has done all of my friends cranks for the last several years. T/G S/C stuff. His only problem, he's a Cow man. LOL. Tell him Team Fisher sent you.

Pearson Racing
John Pearson
22 Dewey Street
Alexandria OH 45381
937-839-9723
 
Do they do just normal boring and stuff? TCK
Oops, I guess I did not make that clear enough. John builds cranks. Sometimes in the winter he may do some side jobs but other than that, cranks. So, no normal stuff. LOL. He's a pretty good guy to work with.
 
$1500! Holy crap that's a lot of dough. Seriously I don't think I have that into the whole bike.

You want to go fast and make power it costs $$$$$$ and it cost`s more money when things go BOOM. Stan is the man for cranks.

I hear you on that. Here's some pics of my CB450 engine bottom end after I blew up a piston at 9,000 rpm!

IMG_6086.JPG


IMG_6094.JPG
 
Why did it let go at that low RPM?
Something wrong inside?

Not enough head-to-piston clearance :(

It whacked the head and broke the top; the rest is just damage from flailing around like that.
 
Not enough head-to-piston clearance :(

It whacked the head and broke the top; the rest is just damage from flailing around like that.

And how pray tell did you manage to run out of "head-to-piston clearance"?

BTW, nice photos.8-[
 
Back in the day...

Back in the day...

... a friend of mine bought a 1978 Skunk after he rode my 750 and liked it a lot.He's a great rider, and spun the crank TWO WEEKS into ownership. He called Suzuki and said "It malfunctioned.", and they repaired it under warranty. And that was a totally stock bike!
 
I hear you on that. Here's some pics of my CB450 engine bottom end after I blew up a piston at 9,000 rpm!

IMG_6086.JPG


IMG_6094.JPG
That's NOTHING! You could still reuse those parts. I will try in the next couple of days to find some pics I have somewhere of stuff I have seen people blow up! If that happens with a GS1100 or 1150, the block, cases, & sometimes head & clutch hub are JUNK! If a piston were to break on a GS at 9000 RPM like that it would saw the cases & block on that rod & be history. Those cases didn't even look hurt & you could resleeve that cylinder. The crank was probably another story but you get the idea. Ray.
 
I will try in the next couple of days to find some pics I have somewhere of stuff I have seen people blow up! Ray.

Now that would be a funny thread!!!! These are my own favorites...

These were from the Shark after making a few to many 7 second passes. The parts hit Underhills bike and put some nice marks in the fork tubes. No one was hurt. One reason you would be smart to use a blanket. Cheap insurance to keep oil off the tire.
big6.jpg

big7.jpg


My stock GS1100's output shaft bearing...
bearing1.jpg


Oil filter blow out on the Raptor...
fram1.jpg
 
My dragbike after running low on fuel ...
mtcdamage6.jpg


I was always told the stock GS gears were good into the high 8's was all. I guess that's true.
gear2.jpg


Some times I am not the fastest learner in the class room and need to repeat my mistakes.
Last summers low fuel melt down.
gasket1.jpg

gasket3.jpg
 
Sometimes the bikes are not the only parts that get broke. I had them do this with a wrap (you know, they wrap up the entire limb to remove the blood the tie it off) and watched the whole thing. Very cool watching them drill holes.
xray5.jpg
 
And how pray tell did you manage to run out of "head-to-piston clearance"?

BTW, nice photos.8-[

Basically the rod grew enough to eat up the .028" squish clearance I had used. In hindsight it was waaaaaay optimistic on an old air cooled engine to use that little clearance. It would have been fine if I had used more like .040". The next build will use more clearance, of course.

Ray, you're right that it wasn't so bad. The crank is trashed, and the sleeve is bashed into the cylinder so it can't be removed. It also took out an intake valve, wiped a cam lobe and destroyed the cam follower.

But the cases are fine and the head's fine (but there is melted aluminum all over it).

This is a motor that will make 40 horsepower on a good day, though.
 
Yikes! I've never heard of that procedure. My wife got some pins a couple of years ago from a skating accident and it was a full OR-type surgery.

Sometimes the bikes are not the only parts that get broke. I had them do this with a wrap (you know, they wrap up the entire limb to remove the blood the tie it off) and watched the whole thing. Very cool watching them drill holes.
 
Basically the rod grew enough to eat up the .028" squish clearance I had used. In hindsight it was waaaaaay optimistic on an old air cooled engine to use that little clearance. It would have been fine if I had used more like .040". The next build will use more clearance, of course.

Ray, you're right that it wasn't so bad. The crank is trashed, and the sleeve is bashed into the cylinder so it can't be removed. It also took out an intake valve, wiped a cam lobe and destroyed the cam follower.

But the cases are fine and the head's fine (but there is melted aluminum all over it).

This is a motor that will make 40 horsepower on a good day, though.
Usually I have been able to save peoples big blocks with killed sleeves like that by cutting them off at the very bottom with a cut off wheel on a die grinder. Ray.
 
My 83 1100E that I had in 84 twisted the crank at 12,000 miles......luckily still had factory warranty back then, the dealer even let me send out the new crank to be welded.....new cases and everything....then 6000 miles later (and out of warranty) I got that horrible death rattle AGAIN......pushed the bike in the corner and figured I was screwed......still making payments on it......after a month or two of being depressed (and not having the money) I took it to Action Fours in Santa Ana (anyone remember them?) Turned out to be the CLUTCH BASKET.....bought a V&H Welded basked and I was up and running.....funny......
 
Last edited:
Just got a '79 GS1000, not going to do any real drag racing, just blasting up the mountain roads around here. Not taking the crank out to weld unless it needs it.
What causes "The Bends"?
Speedshifting with a little messed up timing in the clutch hand?
Over reving the engine?

Something I need to worry about if I'm not racing?
 
Back
Top