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lemonshindig
Guest
I used a chisel set to get my lower bearing off. I wasn't paying close enough attention and I put a deep gouge in the stem. Probably needs to be replaced, right?
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lemonshindig
Guest
Okay, so the 78 GS1000 and the 79 GS1000 have different part numbers for the triple tree. Does anybody know why?
1978 GS1000EC 51400-49810
1979 GS1000EN 51410-49070
Am I correct that the C means 1978, and the N means 1979? Some of the websites seem to offer both models for both years...
I haven't found a part fiche that calls those interchangeable or superseding one another.
1978 GS1000EC 51400-49810
1979 GS1000EN 51410-49070
Am I correct that the C means 1978, and the N means 1979? Some of the websites seem to offer both models for both years...
I haven't found a part fiche that calls those interchangeable or superseding one another.
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lemonshindig
Guest
I ended up ordering one because I am not comfortable with the risk. But here are the photos.
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lemonshindig
Guest
Photo two
Yes, The C and the N are year codes like you said. Model Year, not year of build.
I cant say anything about the difference in part number between the two years.
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lemonshindig
Guest
Can the stem be changed with a manual press? The guys at the auto hobby shop think I have to go somewhere with a hydraulic press. But they do have a manual one.
Dogma
Forum Sage
Tough call. If it's on the side of the stem that would mostly be in compression, I'd be OK with it. I wouldn't use it with that crack starter on the tension side. I'd at least round out the bottom of the gouge so there wasn't a place for a crack to get started. If you found a replacement cheap, that's an easy decision.
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aclaytonb
Guest
+1 on this.
Me three.
For one, it's a gouge, not a crack.
That's an ENORMOUS piece of steel relative to the loads it carries. The aluminum triple clamps would fail long before a steering stem could be deformed.
Still, I don't have it in my hands, so that's not 100%.
The other factor is psychological -- if you would not be able to completely forget about this while you're riding, then it's worth replacing.
For example, I've replaced many tires that could have gone much further simply because I did not want the issue taking up any brainspace at all while riding. You have to trust your machine.
I'm pretty sure you'll need a hydraulic press if you're only replacing the stem; a manual arbor press isn't going to do much, at least none of the ones I've seen. Obviously, it's a pretty heavy press fit.
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aclaytonb
Guest
Medium sized shop press. Have to grind the weld off the bottom, press out the old stem, press in new stem, reweld. I'd just buy a new (used) one before I did all that. I'd put some JB weld in the gouge and call it a day before I bought a new one.
G
Guest
Guest
I'd just repair it. Sand, file or grind off any protruding surface area then fill it back up with JB Weld or MIG weld up the gouge and file it to shape.
Further to my other post and in line with some other recommendations. The only possible failure would be a fatigue fracture that might start at where the damage occurred. This is where you would want to grind out the cut to avoid any sharp inside edges that might start a potential crack. Yes you make the part stronger by removing material. It would be overkill to try and weld and fill the hole, and JB weld would do nothing.
