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Drain plug washer

Andrew Vanis

Andrew Vanis

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
IMG_20170910_222200.jpg

What kind of washer should be used here?

This looks like a couple aluminum washers are already fused on here or is this how it is supposed to look?
 
Pry them off with a pick or similar and than use the one that should be there:

GASKET 09168-14004 for a $1.07 at Parts Outlaw
 
OEM is a steel crush washer. It's sort of a hollow shape, like a rolled edge, and it compresses to look like two layers. What you see in the photo is one washer that's been compressed. They're also used for the side oil oil passage plugs.

You can get a better look at a new uncrushed washer by punching the part number ( 09168-14004 ) into fleaBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-SUZ...ash=item41cea351b1:g:4OcAAOSwLnBX9UFk&vxp=mtr

I've never really been able to find a better bulk source for these things than Suzuki -- you can sometimes find them in auto parts stores on the rack of drain plugs and such, but they're expensive. They're 99 cents at my favorite local shoppe:
http://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/09168-14004/gasket

Prying the old ones off is a royal pain, especially if they've been used over and over and over and over again for 30 years by clueless mechanics, but you gotta do it.

Sometimes I have to put the plug in a vise and gently tap a knife blade in there to start working it loose.

On my GS, I installed a steel thread insert in the oil pan and use aluminum crush washers. If you look at the inside of an OEM oil pan, the thickness of the aluminum and the amount of threads is frighteningly skimpy.
 
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bwringer said:
On my GS, I installed a steel thread insert in the oil pan and use aluminum crush washers. If you look at the inside of an OEM oil pan, the thickness of the aluminum and the amount of threads is frighteningly skimpy.
Click to expand...

very helpful post all around.

Why is the steel thread insert needed instead of just a using an alum washer with it as is?

Regarding the insert, did you enlarge the pan hole to use the OEM plug or go a a smaller plug? Do you remember what sizes on those inserts you used?

Any reason (other than it is likely to happen at the least inconvenient time) not to go to alum washer with it as-is and them go to insert if it happens to strip?
 
With an aluminum crush washer, you need a bit more torque to ensure a good seal. Without a thread insert, with the few aluminum threads available... it's marginal. Yes, you can do it for a while and it works... but it's not ideal.

The drain plug threads on most GS models are 14mm diameter X 1.25mm pitch. As it happens, this is the same as a 14mm spark plug thread, so inserts are pretty easy to find.

I've used this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-533...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3EATCVGFPD3X7823NQ89

Despite the Heli-Coil brand name on the package, this is a solid insert, not a wire coil. Important when sealing fluids or compression. These kits are available at just about any auto parts shoppe. The kit comes with a tap that enlarges and threads the original hole to the correct threads for the outside of the insert.

The detail that makes this type of insert better than some others is that as the last step, you stick a swaging tool into the end and give it a whack -- this expands the insert a bit, locks it into place, and shapes the end so that it will seal properly.
 
When I fixed my oil drain, I used a threaded steel insert. You can do it or have a trusted shop do it for you. Once the insert is installed go to an auto parts store like NAPA or some one else. Find a drain plug that fits the threads and use a copper crush washer. Mine has been like this for nearly 20 years now. No leaks no nothing.
 
I had a leaky drain bolt. Found an oversized bolt and used a copper washer near the head and the rubber washer the came with the bolt after. So far ao good.

I've learned that folks tend overtighten these bolts.
 
Interesting how this subject came up around the same time spyder had a bad incident with his drain plug.

Steel insert is the way to go and I wanna thank MrBill for helping me with my oil pan mod.


Ed
 
Thanks for the comments. I changed my oil for the first time last weekend (had it over a month now) and noticed there was no washer on the drain plug. Saw it on the parts fiche. Guess I better order a couple.

Looking forward to adjusting the valves soon (PO had owned it since ’88 and said he’d never adjusted them, after putting 25k to 30k miles on it).
 
Steedracer said:
Thanks for the comments. I changed my oil for the first time last weekend (had it over a month now) and noticed there was no washer on the drain plug. Saw it on the parts fiche. Guess I better order a couple.

Looking forward to adjusting the valves soon (PO had owned it since ’88 and said he’d never adjusted them, after putting 25k to 30k miles on it).
Click to expand...

It's amazing the engine is still running. Not running rough or anything? Just shows how durable these engines are.
 
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She’s pretty zippy. Valve adjustment and carb rebuild are definitely on the list for this winter!
 
My solution.... Found a fiber type washer in the true value (chain small hardware shop) that sealed with little torque. Had been fine for months.
 
Andrew Vanis said:
My solution.... Found a fiber type washer in the true value (chain small hardware shop) that sealed with little torque. Had been fine for months.
Click to expand...

I have used fibre washers but my sump plug is wired I have always found fibre washers come a tad lose would be very carefull if not wired.
 
Old washer, but if it ain't leaking "I" wouldn't fool with it...Just my opinion.
 
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