Ducati Cucciolo

[Guest]

The Westwood wheels should be here in a couple of days and the seller found suitable mudguards that are definitely useable, so all is looking good in that regard.

However, I somewhat killed my budget for this pay so I think the blasting gear will be delayed...

 

[Big T]

Ok, some minor progress at last...

I'm pretty tempted though to leave it all as is given how well it cleaned up and not blast it... however, if I end up with a freshly painted bicycle frame it won't match up real well, so I think it's probably best I stick with the original plan.

Still haven't done anything about a blasting cabinet or anything yet, just haven't had the time. Hopefully soon!

Definitely felt good to get into it at least a little bit again today...

Pete - I'd skip getting a blast cabinet and find someone who vapor blasts - the aluminium will come out looking like new and won't corrode. Of course, you must finish degreasing first

 

[Guest]

Pete - I'd skip getting a blast cabinet and find someone who vapor blasts - the aluminium will come out looking like new and won't corrode. Of course, you must finish degreasing first

My original plan was to get it wet blasted (not sure if it's the same as vapour blasting) like I had done on my 450 head and cylinders, but seeing as the motors never looked that shiny from the factory I decided to do some walnut shells instead. That way they can get cleaned up without looking "modern".

I'm still contemplating what to do to combat any corrossion though...

Also, if I go the wet blasting route it's not particularly cheap and that'll mean waiting another few months for budget... I can buy a blasting gun , make a cabinet, and buy a bag of walnut shells for well under $100...

 

[tatu]

Oh, I've also been scouting high and low for girder or springer forks... there are a lot around the place but they all seem to be for 20" or 26" wheels which is not helpful for 28" wheels... but I shall keep looking. I have no doubt something will turn up at some point... maybe a small vintage motorcycle fork or something? Not sure what used them back then...

Asyou say there seem to be a few about, I found this..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110815135705?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

There seems to be a few options.

 

[Big T]

My original plan was to get it wet blasted (not sure if it's the same as vapour blasting) like I had done on my 450 head and cylinders, but seeing as the motors never looked that shiny from the factory I decided to do some walnut shells instead. That way they can get cleaned up without looking "modern".

I'm still contemplating what to do to combat any corrossion though...

Also, if I go the wet blasting route it's not particularly cheap and that'll mean waiting another few months for budget... I can buy a blasting gun , make a cabinet, and buy a bag of walnut shells for well under $100...

Yeah, it's the same- bead blasting in a soapy solution

You try soda blasting at home also, don't even need a cabinet

 

[landshark]

You try soda blasting at home also, don't even need a cabinet

Yeah, but it makes a hell of a mess.

 

[Guest]

Asyou say there seem to be a few about, I found this..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110815135705?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

There seems to be a few options.

They're definitely one of the better ones I've come across, but again I could only see options up to 26" wheels... and they're by far the most expensive

Down the track if I have no success locating something suitable it might be worth an email to see if it's possible to get a longer set made up to suit, but that ain't gonna be cheap I don't think.

It seems that all the new springer and girder forks are made for the whole retro beach cruiser market which means 16 - 26" wheels only, nothing bigger for older bicycles...

Yeah, it's the same- bead blasting in a soapy solution

You try soda blasting at home also, don't even need a cabinet

Cool, had thought about soda blasting but the results of the walnut shells seem to be the appearance I'm looking for.

However, soda blasting could be good on some larger items I need to prep for paint like the wheels and frame...

Yeah, but it makes a hell of a mess.

I can imagine Tim! But if I do it for the wheels and frame then I'm not gonna have a cabinet big enough... maybe just p!ss the neighbours off and do it in the front yard... haha

 

[landshark]

maybe just p!ss the neighbours off and do it in the front yard... haha

Thats what i did. I looked liked Casper afterwards and it was all i could taste for about a week.

 

[Guest]

I thought my wheels and mudguards might be here today, but they're not, and they're going to my house mate's work and he won't be back 'til Sunday after tomorrow... I hate waiting! I must learn to be patient...

Thats what i did. I looked liked Casper afterwards and it was all i could taste for about a week.

Hahaha sounds like a blast!

I think that could be the way to go for the frame though as I think it' has about 6 layers of paint on it... gonna take a lot of stripping and sanding to get that back...

 

[Guest]

Well I must say frustration is setting in big time... I hate this waiting crap...

The wheels and mudguards got couriered on Friday so in theory they should be here tomorrow.

I went bearing hunting on Thursday and found out I can get them... will be about $112 for both crankshaft bearings

Then I realised I'm going to have to do something about brakes for the wheels as a rear coaster brake is going to be useless once it's hooked up to the motor.

In the UK they used rod brakes, but their frames were designed and have fittings braised on and holes drilled, and of course the Malvern Star doesn't have them. And the rod brakes pull against the inside of the rim, so if I do like Malvern Star did from the factory and paint the rims, then that's going to ruin the paint unless I get them powder coated or something...

So it looks like drum brakes are the way to go, but of course the costs start to increase, and I can't find an old 32 hole drum brake to suit the front wheel... only a modern one designed for a recumbent trike...

I'm stuck without blasting gear at the moment too after blowing the budget on the wheels and mudguards and payday's not until the 15th August... sheesh...

Oh well, enough ranting, I must just be patient... I'm sure once I get some things underway it will start snowballing along.

 

[razor02097]

you don't need no stinkin brakes :lol: I do know what you mean about the waiting thing... I hate waiting for parts

Man those crank bearings are expensive!

 

[tatu]

I went bearing hunting on Thursday and found out I can get them... will be about $112 for both crankshaft bearings

Crikey Pete! is that direct from a bearing supplier? sounds a lot.

I made soda blaster and its true it does make a mess but I have an old plastic box that contains it quite well. The soda killed all the grass where I did it but has recovered now. I found that the soda that had been passed a couple of times was better, being a bit finer.

 

[Guest]

No time for photos tonight as I watched the MotoGP replay from this morning, but the wheels and mudguards arrived today.

Definitely need a tidy and paint but they seem to be well and truly serviceable! Always a good start

you don't need no stinkin brakes :lol: I do know what you mean about the waiting thing... I hate waiting for parts

Man those crank bearings are expensive!

Hahaha yeah well... the way things are looking at the moment my feet will be the breaks

Those rod brakes in the UK are either going very cheaply or aren't being bought at all... I'm so tempted just to get a set and the matching 'bars but I really don't want to have to get the rims powder coated...

And yup, those bearings are expensive!

Crikey Pete! is that direct from a bearing supplier? sounds a lot.

I made soda blaster and its true it does make a mess but I have an old plastic box that contains it quite well. The soda killed all the grass where I did it but has recovered now. I found that the soda that had been passed a couple of times was better, being a bit finer.

Yeah just a bearing shop, not NOS or anything like that, just generic ball bearings... there's a surplus bearing place here in Brissie also that appears to list them but they haven't replied to my query yet, so I'll give them a call later this week if I get a chance. Might be a bit cheaper if they have them on the shelf gathering dust...

I plan to make a cabinet out of a bit plastic storage box, but that's not going to work for the wheels or frame unfortunately, so I'm not sure where to do it yet. Maybe out the back by the pool as there's no grass there and there's big brick walls around our back yard. I'll keep the pool cover on though!

 

[Guest]

I got some time in the garage tonight so I took some shots of the new wheels and guards and did another test fit/mock up.

All serviceable but need a damn good clean up and some paint.

This is something like it would look just as a bicycle:

And I had to do the mock up again and see how it looked:

This definitely shows me two things:

1. The front forks are way off, definitely designed for 27 or 26" wheels as they have the front wheel and guard too close to the motor.
2. Rod brakes are definitely out, especially for the rear, as with the motor mounted there would be no way for the rod to still run under the frame rail.

One thing the mock up has done is given me a pretty good idea of what I can do for paint.

I'm thinking a more basic scheme of a navy or royal blue for the main parts of the frame and forks, and a nice crisp white for the detail areas like the surrounds of the stars on the head stock and so forth.

I'll keep the guards white as well, but do the nice raised centre line in blue, and do the reverse for the rims so the outside sections are blue and the raised centre where the spokes go in white.

And I'm obviously going to need drum brakes but given how hard it's proving to find a front 32 spoke one, I wonder if it would be safe enough to just have a rear drum brake?

 

[Tim Tom]

I got some time in the garage tonight so I took some shots of the new wheels and guards and did another test fit/mock up.

All serviceable but need a damn good clean up and some paint.

And I had to do the mock up again and see how it looked:

One thing the mock up has done is given me a pretty good idea of what I can do for paint.

I'm thinking a more basic scheme of a navy or royal blue for the main parts of the frame and forks, and a nice crisp white for the detail areas like the surrounds of the stars on the head stock and so forth.

I'll keep the guards white as well, but do the nice raised centre line in blue, and do the reverse for the rims so the outside sections are blue and the raised centre where the spokes go in white.

And I'm obviously going to need drum brakes but given how hard it's proving to find a front 32 spoke one, I wonder if it would be safe enough to just have a rear drum brake?

Hey Pete the mock up looks awesome! Seeing it all together, even in the rough, still looks pretty sweet.

I totally agree about your ideas for the paint, the blue blue frame with white detail and mudfenders is gonna look really sharp. Also the tank done in white would make a good contrast to the darker frame.

My only criticism would be regarding the wheels. I kinda think they should be cleaned up nice and left as the alloy (not polished though). Painted wheels would be a bit too much, and leave the motor the only metal on the bike, would look strange I think.

As far as brakes I'm afraid I'm not much help, but you should definitely have two of them

 

[surviverguy]

Front brakes are a definate- must have. Rear brakes are more of an option, but better to have rear brakes than not have rear brakes. Rear brakes only= disaster waiting to happen.
The problem with rear drum brakes is they are so heavy. Hubs for rear brakes add lots of weight compaired to other options.
When I was a bicycle courier many years ago- I built a rear wheel with a drum hub for better braking in the rain. That rear wheel was so heavy that I returned all the parts to the bicycle shop and never tried that again.
Braking wise- the best setup I ever had with a tenspeed type frame had mountain bike forks with cantaliever brakes attached to the forks. For hard braking- I'd raise myself up off the seat and move my weight rearwards as far as possible to keep the back tire on the ground.
A rear brake only setup will lockup the rear and skid and never stop quickly enough.

 

[surviverguy]

In the rain, a rear fender (mudgaurd) is a must have- to keep your backside dry. The front mudgaurd isn't needed as much. That's why I always used a small plastic rear mudgaurd and never used one on the front.

 

[Guest]

Hey Pete the mock up looks awesome! Seeing it all together, even in the rough, still looks pretty sweet.

I totally agree about your ideas for the paint, the blue blue frame with white detail and mudfenders is gonna look really sharp. Also the tank done in white would make a good contrast to the darker frame.

My only criticism would be regarding the wheels. I kinda think they should be cleaned up nice and left as the alloy (not polished though). Painted wheels would be a bit too much, and leave the motor the only metal on the bike, would look strange I think.

As far as brakes I'm afraid I'm not much help, but you should definitely have two of them

Cheers Tim, I do think that paint scheme will work, although I'm thinking I'll keep the tank how they were which I believe is silver.

Now that you mention it I'm not 100% sold on the wheel paint and I've seen some painted and others clean steel... I'm just not sure how easy it's going to be to keep the steel clean and rust free.

Front brakes are a definate- must have. Rear brakes are more of an option, but better to have rear brakes than not have rear brakes. Rear brakes only= disaster waiting to happen.
The problem with rear drum brakes is they are so heavy. Hubs for rear brakes add lots of weight compaired to other options.
When I was a bicycle courier many years ago- I built a rear wheel with a drum hub for better braking in the rain. That rear wheel was so heavy that I returned all the parts to the bicycle shop and never tried that again.
Braking wise- the best setup I ever had with a tenspeed type frame had mountain bike forks with cantaliever brakes attached to the forks. For hard braking- I'd raise myself up off the seat and move my weight rearwards as far as possible to keep the back tire on the ground.
A rear brake only setup will lockup the rear and skid and never stop quickly enough.

Yeah I'm not sold on only a drum rear brake, but putting any sort of rim brake on the front is a no go. The rims won't take that at all and they're not period correct either.

For the front, it's either a drum or a rod brake, and something tells me a rod brake on the front and drum on the rear isn't going to be hugely better than just a drum on the back.

Mind you, given most of its time will be idling and sitting it's not as big an issue as it would be if I actually planned on riding it regularly...

In the rain, a rear fender (mudgaurd) is a must have- to keep your backside dry. The front mudgaurd isn't needed as much. That's why I always used a small plastic rear mudgaurd and never used one on the front.

This thing is never gonna get ridden in the rain, but does have both guards

 

[Guest]

I may have a lead on drum brakes front and rear and some suitable forks... just gotta wait for a guy on the bicycle forum to check his storage shed this week.

It's looking highly unlikely I'll end up with anything fancy like girder forks now as they're just too damn expensive if you can find them, but that's fine by me... as long as it's authentic I'll be happy

So, seeing as I can't do anything else, I did a typical dodgy Pete GIMP job to get an idea of how my paint idea will work with the available decals:

I think it'll look pretty good

 

[cowboyup3371]

Wow Pete it's coming right along