Dyno Jet Jet-Kit Is Crap! AFR Dyno Results;

[JungleJustice]

I have a stock standard 1980 GS1100 E that I recently purchased and invested LOTS of love, time and dollars in! She needed some TLC, so I just went through and spent thousands and months of my life to bring the old gal back to life!

Did a valve-job, rebuilt the carbs, installed brand new Progressive rear coil-overs, new tires, new wheel-bearings and seals, a new fork-brace and fork service w/fresh fork-oil, new Dyna ignition coils and plug-wires, new voltage regulator, new paint and fresh wheel powder-coating - I mean - the WORKS! Brand new custom stainless steel braided brake lines and fluids, a new tank petcock, fuel-filter, hoses, on and on!

We went through ALL of the wiring, cleaned everything and added an extra heavy ground, a new clutch-cable, new choke cable, new filter, new airbox boots, fresh oil and plugs - all electrical tests check out - life should be good, right!?

Bike looks great and sounds great, so I finally got a brand new Vance & Hines 4-into-1 pipe for it! Installed the pipe, and the recommended jet-kit from Dyno Jet - strictly according to the instructions. The bike starts right up and sounds pretty good. Starts, runs drives OK, but the power through the range is uneven. She bogs and coughs around the low ranges and surges as the bike runs through the rev-range. It feels OK up higher in the rpm ranges on the freeway, so I set up some time on a bike dyno!

Strapped it down to the rolling-road, hooked it up to 2 air/fuel ratio meters and made many runs - low to high, mid-range roll-ons, low throttle accelerations, part throttle cruise runs and WOT pulls. Basically, we're good at 88 mph - stable throttle - and that's about it!

The rest of the way we're talking Air/Fuel ratios in the 8s and 9s!!!! I mean, 8.8, 8.7, 9.0, 9.1 Air/Fuel ratio - off of the scale rich!

The dyno guy just said to reinstall all of the original jets, shim the needle up and call me in the morning! (Or they can do it for 100 bucks an hour I'm sure...) Any advice!? Carbs were out, Jet kit instructions verified and all before I headed to the dyno...!

What gives!?

 

[Griffin]

Stock airbox? What are you using for a filter?

The DJ instructions get you in the ballpark, but since every different pipe flows differently, every different air intake configuration flows differently, and every engine flows differently, they are only a guideline.

It is up to YOU to fine tune the adjustments. Do a search on "jetting". It is almost NEVER simply "plug and play".

 

[Nessism]

Airbox? A Dynojet stage 3 kit will be way rich unless you installed pods. I have an old Cycle World article and they only went with new mains when they added a pipe to an 1100E with the stock airbox and lid removed.

 

[Guest]

Jet it right and it won't be crap unless you got one of the fake kits.

 

[posplayr]

I have a stock standard 1980 GS1100 E that I recently purchased and invested LOTS of love, time and dollars in! She needed some TLC, so I just went through and spent thousands and months of my life to bring the old gal back to life!

Did a valve-job, rebuilt the carbs, installed brand new Progressive rear coil-overs, new tires, new wheel-bearings and seals, a new fork-brace and fork service w/fresh fork-oil, new Dyna ignition coils and plug-wires, new voltage regulator, new paint and fresh wheel powder-coating - I mean - the WORKS! Brand new custom stainless steel braided brake lines and fluids, a new tank petcock, fuel-filter, hoses, on and on!

We went through ALL of the wiring, cleaned everything and added an extra heavy ground, a new clutch-cable, new choke cable, new filter, new airbox boots, fresh oil and plugs - all electrical tests check out - life should be good, right!?

Bike looks great and sounds great, so I finally got a brand new Vance & Hines 4-into-1 pipe for it! Installed the pipe, and the recommended jet-kit from Dyno Jet - strictly according to the instructions. The bike starts right up and sounds pretty good. Starts, runs drives OK, but the power through the range is uneven. She bogs and coughs around the low ranges and surges as the bike runs through the rev-range. It feels OK up higher in the rpm ranges on the freeway, so I set up some time on a bike dyno!

Strapped it down to the rolling-road, hooked it up to 2 air/fuel ratio meters and made many runs - low to high, mid-range roll-ons, low throttle accelerations, part throttle cruise runs and WOT pulls. Basically, we're good at 88 mph - stable throttle - and that's about it!

The rest of the way we're talking Air/Fuel ratios in the 8s and 9s!!!! I mean, 8.8, 8.7, 9.0, 9.1 Air/Fuel ratio - off of the scale rich!

The dyno guy just said to reinstall all of the original jets, shim the needle up and call me in the morning! (Or they can do it for 100 bucks an hour I'm sure...) Any advice!? Carbs were out, Jet kit instructions verified and all before I headed to the dyno...!

What gives!?

How much air you running in the back tire? ^o


Seriously you situation sounds like a box stock motor with 4:1, if you gave some details about what you did to the carbs you would be well on your way to being done.

what jet kit, what mains, where are the needles set. Pod/airbox or AB with lid off?

Bill (Chef) can do these in his sleep and the stock jets are too lean and will just get worse.

Slap in some pods , 138 DJ needles on the 3rd notch and try that; see if it will pull to red line.

 

[JungleJustice]

Guys, I bought the "Dyno Jet" brand recommended jet-kit from a V&H / Dyno Jet dealer - Jet kit number 3133.001 for a US-spec 1980 - 1986 Suzuki GS 1100-1150 16 Valve.

I didn't follow the Stage 3 instructions. I followed the Stage 1 instructions! Stage 1 is described as being for "Mildly tuned machines using the stock airbox, with stock K&N filter..."

I still have the stock airbox with an OEM filter fitted, but with a bunch of holes drilled in the airbox lid. Removing the lid entirely for a few runs also did little to help the AFRs...

I still have all four original jets and the set of the DJ110 jets in the kit; I have the 132 jets and the 138 jets in my hands, so I KNOW that I have the 114s that came in the kit in there as instructed!

We used the DD #32 drill-bit to enlarge the slide lift holes, but we did not drill the needle hole at all!

We installed the new needles with the E-clips on the #3 grooves from the top!

We also did the mixture screw with the 2.5 turns backed-out method per the instructions...

We did not install the DH160 (pilot jets?), as I still have those here as well... Perhaps installing those will help lean-out the bottom-end, since that is where I have problems mainly!?

 

[posplayr]

Guys, I bought the "Dyno Jet" brand recommended jet-kit from a V&H / Dyno Jet dealer - Jet kit number 3133.001 for a US=spec 1980 - 1986 Suzuki GS 1100-1150 16 Valve.

Stage 1 is described for "Mildly tuned machines using the stock airbox, with stock K&N filter.

I still have the stock airbox with an OEM filter fitting and a bunch of holes drilled in the airbox lid.

I still have all four original jets and the set of the DJ110 jets in the kit; I have the 132 jets and the 138 jets in my hands, so I KNOW that I have the 114s in there as instructed!

We used the DD #32 drill-bit to enlarge the slide lift holes, but we did not drill the needle hole at all!

We installed the new needles with the E-clips on the #3 grooves from the top!

We also did the mixture screw with the 2.5 turns backed-out method per the instructions...

We did not install the DJ160 (pilot jest?), as I have those here as well...

One thing to mention is that my kits are 3133.003 ; there have been some changes but otherwise it is probably not the issue.

The 114's would be a little lean if anything.

did you set the float height? These CV's are very sensitive to that.

Maybe Bill has other ideas, I'm just going off how he set mine.

 

[blowerbike]

i had a long reply typed out...
i deleted it to post a "nicer" version.
dynojet products are top of the line.
if you have problems it is because you are straying away from the way the kit is supposed to be installed.
read read and re-read the instructions and understand what you have read.
if you still have problems then call dynojet tomorrow.
good luck.

 

[sparki]

dynojet kits are anything but crap....

follow this dynojet troubleshooting guide: http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/perversepolisher/adobe/JetKit-Troubleshoot.pdf

 

[woodman]

Im at 3700 ft, but I ended up with 115 mains, stock pilots with screws out 3 turns and the needle in the 2nd groove from the top. The bike runs fantastic with the lid off the airbox & a K&N filter on a stock 80 GS1100E with a Vance & Hines pipe on it. Thanks to a lot of guys on here , some who have answered your post, that helped me out & removing the carbs about 6 times until I was happy with it.

 

[posplayr]

Im at 3700 ft, but I ended up with 115 mains, stock pilots with screws out 3 turns and the needle in the 2nd groove from the top. The bike runs fantastic with the lid off the airbox & a K&N filter on a stock 80 GS1100E with a Vance & Hines pipe on it. Thanks to a lot of guys on here , some who have answered your post, that helped me out & removing the carbs about 6 times until I was happy with it.

Other than needing to get some clicks on your "remove-odometer" what caaused the hang up?
You are running 115 Mikuni jets?

 

[Guest]

The jet needle is what you really pay for in the kit.
I'd start with the airbox lid off
117.5 Mikuni mains
Needle fourth from bottom
Stock pilot jet 45
Set float heigth 22.4mm
Rebuild the carbs with new o-rings.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Could it be a timing thing possibly at all?? I installed per the instructions (though their needle clip settings are debatable) and ive had no troubles out of mine. Im even running 36mm carbs on an otherwise stock motor (pods and pipe however) and have had no problems...If you attempt to follow your "mechanics" instructions, you're going to be even more ****ed off. The stock Mikuni needles are not designed for high flow set ups. The needle taper is too slow..

 

[Guest]

My 1980 1100e has a V-H 4 into 1 on it and I am running 117.5 mikuni jets , and I believe 41 pilots, stock air box cover on with K&N filter bike is smooth and pulls hard to redline [pull like train]. Stock motor

 

[crazypaint]

put the 160 in it helps a top and it says it in the directions that it leans out the bottom hope this helps

 

[JungleJustice]

Thanks guys; glad to see that there are others here who have had good results from the Dyno Jet kits. It just sucks for me right now; I have SO much into the bike and there are two RZ500s sitting here and various Alfa Romeo projects - all BEGGING the attention, time and money!

I'll put the 160 air-jets in, verify the float-levels, redo a carb-sync and see what it does. PITA - in and out, in and out with those carbs...

 

[sparki]

and if all that fails then complete the check sheet that i posted a link to and call dynojet direct. there are very specific questions and answers they require but they will know where you need to go next

 

[woodman]

Well Posplayer thats what seems to work best at this altitude, where do you think it should be ? That was all I had except stuff in the 150 range. Ive got the R&R down to a science now with taking the battery box bolts out, one more time wont be a big deal. This is my first GS, Ive always had KZs. All I have here is the butt dyno, Im always open to ideas. Carbs on it had those jets in it PO had ruined all pilot screws and air adjustment screws so I had to build a set of carbs out of 3 sets, then had a problem with a plugged air bleed that makes a blind turn to the pilot jeton #1 carb. Took me a while to figure that out

 

[posplayr]

Well Posplayer thats what seems to work best at this altitude, where do you think it should be ? That was all I had except stuff in the 150 range. Ive got the R&R down to a science now with taking the battery box bolts out, one more time wont be a big deal. This is my first GS, Ive always had KZs. All I have here is the butt dyno, Im always open to ideas. Carbs on it had those jets in it PO had ruined all pilot screws and air adjustment screws so I had to build a set of carbs out of 3 sets, then had a problem with a plugged air bleed that makes a blind turn to the pilot jeton #1 carb. Took me a while to figure that out

Sorry , I guess I blocked all the times I had to pull mine off . Mine was a little more complicated (1166, ported head, 4:2:1 and 1150 carbs) but I was pulling carbs off each cold April morning during a GSR camping rally near Julian.

With stock engine you probably needed 3-4 trials on mains then 2-3 on needles which got you to 6 times.

My experience has been for most of the standard configurations ask Chef1366 what size to do the main and you are withing 1/2-1 step sizes first time. A little futzing with the needles and you should be done. (famous last words :-k)

 

[Billy Ricks]

As a couple of others have pointed out, make sure the floats are set right. If they aren't right it throws the jetting off.