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Easy way to remove 30 year old gaskets?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Devart
  • Start date Start date
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Devart

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So I've been going around the bike doing maintenance that has been neglected by the PO. Every time I pull off a cover (valve cover etc.) I find a 30 year old solidified gasket glued to one piece or another (or both). I seem to be having to spend more time getting the old gasket pieces off than doing actual maintenance. This time it's the oil pan gasket and I was wounding if there’s some trick to it. Maybe soak it in something? Anyone else find an easy way to take care of this?
 
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Permatex Gasket remover.
in a spray can. spray it like spraypaint, let it sit, then use a plastic razorblade to scrape the surface.
I love that stuff. but be very careful of overspray !









images
 
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The softest Roloc wheel (or harbor freight equivelent) works quite well also...be gentle at first until you get a feel for it. If done right it will remove even the meanest gaskets and still leave the tooling marks in the metal from the factory..
 
I used the Permatex gasket remover, let it set overnight and the a SS parts brush. Worked well on the remaining gasket material and didn't leave marks on the surface.
 
I use a REAL razorblade, but VERY, and I do mean VERY carefully. It doesn't take much to dig in to the soft aluminum. I have to put myself in a TOTALLY different mindset when working on bikes than at my job, which is with boilers made of steel and cast iron with large bolts! None of this soft aluminum there!
 
I've not found an easy way, but soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil and heat from a heat gun before scraping seems to help.
 
The new Permatex remover didn't do anything to my jugs gasket but discolor the metal on my cylinders. I use a razor scraper and get the correct angle so you don't mar the aluminum. A small brass wheel on a dremel is great to finish up all the little spots you cannot get to like in between the cylinders.
 
Soft Roloc in a die grinder. Not good unless the parts are 100% disassembled, since you don't want to get the abrasive in your engine. But it saves hours and hours of scraping and gouging.

Fine surface conditioning discs also work well -- just keep the tool moving and use a light touch, and they'll remove the gaskets with no damage at all to the aluminum.
 
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If you get a 40 year old oil pan for instance that you had to drive off with a hammer & a block of wood it may take several applications of the gasket remover. Just scrape off what you can & keep reapplying it & scraping until its clean. Ive thought of trying one of those scrubbly wheels on a drill but never tried it. I had one on a 76 KZ900 that I broke 3 2x4s on before it came off. I was starting to think I was going to break the block.
 
I use a REAL razorblade, but VERY, and I do mean VERY carefully. It doesn't take much to dig in to the soft aluminum. I have to put myself in a TOTALLY different mindset when working on bikes than at my job, which is with boilers made of steel and cast iron with large bolts! None of this soft aluminum there!

I use a razor blade as well, and you do need to be VERY careful and use a new blade as any imperfections/ gouges/ dimples in your blade (or being too aggressive/ using the wrong angle/ etc.) can scratch or gouge the seating surface and make your new gasket leak.
 
I use this handy plastic scrapper that I found on Ebay, its called "Lil Chizler", they go for less than two bucks. Solid enough to scrape with, but soft enough that it'll loose in a one-on-one with metal;)
 
+1 for roloc scotch brite discs with my die grinder.
Carefully though, the dust from it flies all over.
I usually stuff a rag in anything that nedds to stay dust free.



Tank
 
I like painting a very thin layer of rock miracle paint remover, then going at it with a gasket removal tool. Works great.
 
I just went thru this with my 73 Yamaha TX750. Rock hard and even a well sharpened chissel was useless. So it was plan B time. Propane torch and went straight on the faces of the stuck on pieces till the gasket material sort of glowed..fell right off with the chisel then. I took some rags and soaked then to drape over the clutch and anything else I didnt want the flame to get to. Did the covers AND the engine cases themselves. Done in a matter of a few minutes without a scratch on the aluminum.
 
Be very careful though!! Dips ground into the flatness of the machined surfaces create places that can become very bad leaking spots!!! Wavy gravy means no oil savey!!!
 
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