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) with Progressive springs in the front, along with the recommended 15w fork oil. I found that after about two hours of riding, my wrists were hurting. I traced it down to the 15w oil not being compliant enough to soak up the little ripples in the road, like expansion joints. I switched to 10w oil and have enjoyed all-day rides ever since. 
Depending on how recently the forks have been cleaned or had new seals installed, yes, you can simply drain and re-fill.
Back in the days when these bikes were built, mixing motor oil and ATF was the high-tech way to do it. Nowadays we have fluids that are specifically made for the job, and they are called "fork oil". Amazing, isn't it? Fork oil might have existed back then, but they figured that more people were likely to have motor oil and ATF sitting around, so they suggested mixing them for "proper" viscosity.
As I mentioned above, if your forks are relatively clean, go ahead and just drain and re-fill. Be as consistent as you can when you drain, to be sure that you get all the oil out that you can, then be as accurate as you can to get the same amount of oil in both legs. It won't be as precise as doing it correctly, but it's certainly better than nothing.Yeah, I read that too. COMPLETE disassembly...I was hoping to just bleed the air, undo the bottom screw and let it drain. then hook up my bicycle pump to gently push air in to force the dregs of oil out.
Then add a pre-measured amount of oil via a syringe.
Probably over simplifying it
. Just curious if some of these responces are from 100 lb guys?
