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Fork Top caps

  • Thread starter Thread starter digdugguzzi
  • Start date Start date
D

digdugguzzi

Guest
Well after not logging into the forum in forever I am back with a new user name.

So I am going to be finally changing the fork oil and probably removing the anti dive from the forks on my 700e. The question i have is how do you remove the top caps from the forks they don't seem to unscrew.

PS remove the air pressure from the forks before unbolting the anitdive oil spray everywhere :oops:

Thanks
 
The first thing to do is to spray some penetrating oil around the edges of the caps and let it work for awhile. Then take the biggest screwdriver you have and push down on the caps. There is a circlip you remove to get the caps out. Have the bike on the centerstand with the fork fully extended.
 
Nice so the only thing holding it in is a circlip. Guess I need to drop the exhaust and put the centerstand on.

Thanks
 
digdugguzzi said:
Nice so the only thing holding it in is a circlip. Guess I need to drop the exhaust and put the centerstand on.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Yeah, it's that time unless you have a front end lift.
BTW, are you the old member digdugmix?
 
Yes I am old member digdugmx6. I have been so tied up on rebuilding my Guzzi my old account died here.

I am finally gettign back to the GS. What is the thought on the anti dive systems?
 
digdugguzzi said:
Yes I am old member digdugmx6. I have been so tied up on rebuilding my Guzzi my old account died here.

I am finally gettign back to the GS. What is the thought on the anti dive systems?
Click to expand...
They really don't work all that well. It's easy enough to compare with and without. Just pull the hydraulic lines off and use the banjo bolt for the anti-dive on the caliper.
 
Went home at lunch at popped those right off suprised to see those little paperclip looking circlips I was looking for the bigger black ones.

Has anyone done anything with preload on a 700 using PVC or something just curious if removing the anit dive if preloading a touch may help.
 
Heck...while you're there, put in a set of progressive fork springs. A piece of pvc is used as a preload in that case. The length depends on how you want your front end to feel and what the sag is as your sitting in the bike. Most here will recommend a 10% difference between an unloaded and loaded suspension.

Use the search feature and search progressive or some such phrase.:)
 
digdugguzzi said:
Went home at lunch at popped those right off suprised to see those little paperclip looking circlips I was looking for the bigger black ones.

Has anyone done anything with preload on a 700 using PVC or something just curious if removing the anit dive if preloading a touch may help.
Click to expand...
If you want to run without air like with Progressives you can try the preload approach with spacers. You want to get the sag set the same at both ends. Sag is just the difference between suspension fully extended and sitting on the ground with your weight in the seat. 1" of sag will give you a firm ride good for really aggressive backroad riding. Use more sag if that's too firm for you. Going with a heavier oil will give more damping and help with the excessive diving. You have to find a happy medium with damping though, you still want the spring to do its thing.
 
I am cheap so new springs are out right now. What is the standard weight oil for the forks I will up that a bit and then maybe preload once I try it out. Easy enough to change.
 
Last edited:
10 weight oil. 10.4 ounces in each leg. The oil level should be 6.7" from the top of the tube with the spring removed and fork fully compressed. 15 weight might help with the dive.
 
Billy Ricks said:
10 weight oil. 10.4 ounces in each leg. The oil level should be 6.7" from the top of the tube with the spring removed and fork fully compressed. 15 weight might help with the dive.
Click to expand...
Note that the bike will still dive, and just as much, with heavier oil, it will just dive slower. :o

.
 
Steve said:
Note that the bike will still dive, and just as much, with heavier oil, it will just dive slower. :o

.
Click to expand...
Yup, it will just slow down the action of the spring. I'd go ahead and set up the sag using spacers and go with the heavier oil. By helping with the dive all I meant was it wouldn't be so quick and feel as drastic. He could use Ed's solution and cut the springs then add spacers to make up the difference in length. Steve, you might remember the formula, isn't it 10% cut off the spring leads to a 10% heavier spring rate?
 
progressive springs usa,,, great!!!

progressive springs usa,,, great!!!

hi guys i have a 1980 gs1000e.. and under superb help from members plus new progressive springs from a member.. i replaced the 30 year old crap short springs and the mouldy muddy sludgey oil that looked like it was origional from the factory with delray 10wt.. no i have a nice handling front end... and for a tight bugger like me it really didn,t cast much hope this helps you regards david :):)
 
It's crazy to hear 15wt whe I put straight 50 in the Moto Guzzi forks and they are still soft. but then again it is a tank compared to the GS and 12 years older

I will go with the 15wt for starters and then preload later if needed.

Thanks all
 
Well it's all back together with 10wt and it's pretty good. May need to preload but I will drive a bit before I do more.

Running it bit today with straight headers to test way loud.
 
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