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Forks leaking after new seals!

GabrielGoes

Forum Mentor
Hello guys and gals!

I was wondering if anyone had any quick tips and pointers for fork seals. I have done over 10 of these jobs within the past 2 years on multiple bikes, and twice over the summer for GS. I just did the forks for My 1000G and she leaks like crazy just parked on the garage with no air in them!

Seals Used: K&L made in Japan
Oil Used: 251ml of bel ray fork oil each leg

I took my time with removal of old seals and installation of new ones...

Problem: oil is seeping past the seal (part that touches the chrome forks) and leaking on to the Floor. Large puddles not just 1 or 2 drops

Additionally: there are no rough spots or pitting on the forks themselves

Drove the seal into the seats via a socket with the same exact diameter as the other seal with multiple evenly distributed light taps. I have done my 1000E the same way.

I saw someone in the Facebook group who had the same issue and he used OEM seals twice (re did his forks because of the same issue but no solution)

What am I missing?? Has anyone run into this? I have brand new fork seals ready to go again for the second time. I have a feeling it wont solve my problem... Should i just use them in my spare set of forks for better luck? Thanks mates.
 
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I had forks that leaked just sitting there and they were overfilled. There was a mistake in the amount specified in a Chiltons manual, specifying for an earlier model bike. It was only about an ounce too much. It stopped after I drained and refilled with proper amount. Since you specified the amount you put in this is likely not the case here, but did you drain at screw or disassemble the forks? Draining at screw must leave some residual and maybe it's enough to overdo things.

I was expecting that if the forks leaked just sitting there with too much, then they also would when in action, but so far that's not the case. Just a thought.
 
I had forks that leaked just sitting there and they were overfilled. There was a mistake in the amount specified in a Chiltons manual, specifying for an earlier model bike. It was only about an ounce too much. It stopped after I drained and refilled with proper amount. Since you specified the amount you put in this is likely not the case here, but did you drain at screw or disassemble the forks? Draining at screw must leave some residual and maybe it's enough to overdo things.

I was expecting that if the forks leaked just sitting there with too much, then they also would when in action, but so far that's not the case. Just a thought.

Yeah absolutely drained every ml out of this thing, let it drain form bottom bolt, I then spray it out with wd40 and let them dry for a day until there is no more fluid in the lower legs.

I believe my bushings are shot, I am trying another set of lower legs and will report
 
If the bushings are shot, check the bottom ones too, the seals won't hold. They can hold with a little wear but once past a certain point, they get oblong and leak, just from the bike sitting there. Try and see if you can order the Nylon (or whatever they are made of) sliders, and rebuild. You will notice the front end tighten up substantially too. ;)
 
I installed one of mine upside down a few years ago. It didn't leak while sittng, but the fork leg was wet within a few miles.
 
Installed one upside down???...What was worse the leak or the embarrassment of finding installed it upside down
 
I don't mean to high jack the thread, but what do you do if the bushings are shot and there are none available for your model? Just have leaky forks???
 
Installed one upside down???...What was worse the leak or the embarrassment of finding installed it upside down

No embarrassment, just a lesson learned. I posted about here. Good news was that doing it the second time took about a third of the time as the first go.
 
Using your milling machine, and make new ones. That's what I did. Kind of joking here, but if you have the old ones, you can probably have a shop mill you a set cheap, they just have to work, not look pretty I did make my own though. I used a radius gauge to guess at what the radius should be, and with the gauge up against the part, you could see the "out of round" worn part. :)
 
Using your milling machine, and make new ones. That's what I did. Kind of joking here, but if you have the old ones, you can probably have a shop mill you a set cheap, they just have to work, not look pretty I did make my own though. I used a radius gauge to guess at what the radius should be, and with the gauge up against the part, you could see the "out of round" worn part. :)

Brilliant. Saved for the future.
 
I have a 1980 GS1100L and exactly the same problem; replaced seals with K & N's, measured oil carefully according to book, leaks sitting still. Thought I had the bike sold but buyer had financial reverse so got it back. Need to get that seal fixed so I can offer it again. Like the bike, but too tall for me when I stop and dismount. Have a 1995 Magna 750 now and not enough room in the garage.
 
Need to get back to the 1100 and redo that fork seal. I plan to take the components from the fork tube to a hydraulics shop to have bushings made, I think they will do it.​
Just been too busy with other stuff, but every time I mention the mountain of quilting stuff, card making stuff etc. in our office/work-room to my wife she comes back with the packed garage. Worse yet I have a 1976 Goldwing GL1000 in a friend's barn in NE that I began resurrecting (been sitting since 1985).
By the way, I sure prefer the way the GS 1100L handles compared to the V4750 Magna, the fork angle is different. I just never grew up to be too tall. As for the GL1000, I used to ride a 1946 Indian, but never had a lot of desire to ride a heavy bike. The challenge of the resurrection is kind of fun though. One of these times it will be for sale also.
 
Just been too busy with other stuff, but every time I mention the mountain of quilting stuff, card making stuff etc. in our office/work-room to my wife she comes back with the packed garage.

That's good. My wife puts up with a lot out of me (junk about).
 
I always replace all the bushings with a fork seal leak. It's more often the cause than a leaking seal. As a former dealer service manager , unless they're unavailable use OEM seals and gaskets. The cost of time and money by doing it twice is not worth the savings. Would also suggest that when the forks are out, check the steering head bearings. If it has a detent at dead center, the races are dimpled and need to be replaced. This and improper steering head bearing adjustment are root causes of steering head shake. If not, remove trees and re-grease. OEM grease is lousy and was used very sparingly. Torquing the steering head nuts to right before binding is slightly OCD but is easier to feel when the forks are out and with new fork oil, adjustments and sometimes new tires, its like getting a new bike. Tighten till binding, then slowly back the nuts out. Go back and forth a couple of times, you can feel it. If the bikes wanders back and forth when done, their over tightened and are fairly easy to adjust without any disassembly.
 
Thanks limeex2. Thought I had the bike sold, but then the buyer had it for a few months while I waited for the rest of payment, until he realized he couldn't. Now I just got the carbs back on after a cleaning. Of the bikes I have owned I liked the 56 Norton 600 the best for handling. It would out-corner just about anything going even though it was not a fast or powerful bike.
 
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