Fuel system cleaner that works as advertised.

[earlfor]

Just thought I would throw a recommendation out for something I tried and found to work better than advertised.
I needed to clean out the varnish build up in the carbs and petcock, clean up the carbon build up in the combustion chambers, stabilize the fuel and break down any particulates/sediment that had accumulated in the gas tank. (I had already drained and rinsed the tank and drained the float bowls to get rid of the old gas and crud build up before refilling with fresh gas.)

The product I used was Lubegard Fuel System Booster 77012.

After running the bike for 120 miles over two days and then draining the float bowls a 2nd time, gas now runs clear and carb blockage is eliminated about 95%. (the blockage was severe enough that the engine would idle only) Probably will take another 100 miles to completely eliminate the remainder. A 16 ounce can and mixing 1 ounce per gallon into the tank has saved me a $700 bill if it went to a shop for a carb clean, fuel system clean, carb synch and tune up. Removing and disassembling carbs on the B12 is a bitch and nothing like doing the same thing with an old GS. Consequently, it is something I want to avoid if at all possible with the Bandit. LOL

This stuff REALLY works.

 

[GSXR7ED]

I wonder if it would work to soak any parts in it...say, calipers?

I'm looking for solvent cleaner (well, not right now) but glad you mentioned it Earl.


Ed

EDIT: or maybe this stuff....CLEANING SOLUTION SC52 (1852) FOR REMOVAL OF METAL OXIDES

SC52 Cleaning Concentrate is a moderately acidic product formulated to strip metal oxides and metallic coatings. It is intended for use in soak tanks or ultrasonic cleaning systems.

 

[earlfor]

I wonder if it would work to soak any parts in it...say, calipers?

I'm looking for solvent cleaner (well, not right now) but glad you mentioned it Earl.


Ed

EDIT: or maybe this stuff....CLEANING SOLUTION SC52 (1852) FOR REMOVAL OF METAL OXIDES

SC52 Cleaning Concentrate is a moderately acidic product formulated to strip metal oxides and metallic coatings. It is intended for use in soak tanks or ultrasonic cleaning systems.

Lubegard isn't intended to clean brake parts, so I suspect it would work somewhat, but probably not be as effective as desired. Just a guess.

 

[Burque73]

I just used this stuff for the first time and it helped bring the KLR out of it's funk. Never heard of it but the guy at the auto parts store recommended it.

http://www.starbrite.com/startron

Yesterday it ran rough, needed full choke to start after sitting for ten minutes. I used two ounces in 6 gallons and ran for fifty miles. It starts easier from cold, no choke if ran recently and runs smoother now.

I do use seafoam regularly in the GS. Every other tank gets 5 ounces and it does make a difference. Especially if it doesn't get ridden in a few days or a week.

 

[Brendan W]

The summer before last I ended up on a badly holed road that shook the bike a lot. On restarting to leave the area the bike ran like a dog.
Redex was added to the system and it took a few hundred miles but it now runs better than ever.
It's definitely something I will keep using from time to time.

 

[earlfor]

I just used this stuff for the first time and it helped bring the KLR out of it's funk. Never heard of it but the guy at the auto parts store recommended it.

http://www.starbrite.com/startron

Yesterday it ran rough, needed full choke to start after sitting for ten minutes. I used two ounces in 6 gallons and ran for fifty miles. It starts easier from cold, no choke if ran recently and runs smoother now.

I do use seafoam regularly in the GS. Every other tank gets 5 ounces and it does make a difference. Especially if it doesn't get ridden in a few days or a week.

Startron has very good ratings by independent testing facilities.

 

[earlfor]

The summer before last I ended up on a badly holed road that shook the bike a lot. On restarting to leave the area the bike ran like a dog.
Redex was added to the system and it took a few hundred miles but it now runs better than ever.
It's definitely something I will keep using from time to time.

Redex is one I don't know. Have to check it out.

 

[Brendan W]

Redex is one I don't know. Have to check it out.

They have a lot of new stuff for diesels and cats and injectors. The one to go for is the original Grandma's formula. Mainly UK so might not be available in the US.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks, Earl. I'll keep that stuff in mind. I read some good reviews at Lubegard's website. Only issue was many stores don't carry it.
I had some good results from "Techron" fuel injection/carb cleaner recently.
Only thing I wonder about with cleaners in general, is if they can harden or damage rubber parts, especially O-rings. I just had a thought...next time I buy a product, maybe the Lubegard, I'll put an o-ring in a baggie and add some of the product and check on it after some time passes. Might learn something.

 

[earlfor]

Thanks, Earl. I'll keep that stuff in mind. I read some good reviews at Lubegard's website. Only issue was many stores don't carry it.
I had some good results from "Techron" fuel injection/carb cleaner recently.
Only thing I wonder about with cleaners in general, is if they can harden or damage rubber parts, especially O-rings. I just had a thought...next time I buy a product, maybe the Lubegard, I'll put an o-ring in a baggie and add some of the product and check on it after some time passes. Might learn something.

Lubegard is intended to be used in either carb or injectors and claimed not to damage seals. My assumption is it is safe when used in the 1 oz. per gal concentration for certain. I don't know about "O" rings in a 100% lubegard solution. I did try Techron and found at a mix of 3 ounces of techron to 1 gal of gas, the B12 would not start or run. I had to drain the tank and float bowls and use new gas. I suspect there is a concentration level for Lubegard that would stop the engine from running also. Best guess is the engine would stop with a concentration between 3 and 5 ounces per gallon of gas.

 

[limeex2]

If one uses non-oxygenated fuel you dont need Startron or Seafoam. Startron works good to combat the problems associated with oxygenated fuel. I will not use oxygenated fuel in ANY motor that has a carburator. It eats o-rings, diaphragms ect and has a shelf life in your carbs of about 4-6 weeks. Sitting for 4 weeks my Triumph starts very hard and it was designed to run 87 octane Oxyfuel. Drain the float bowls first and it fires right up. Snowblower wont even start on the stuff. I wont even comment on SeaFoam, it would be like starting an oil thread. If you just spent tons of $$$ rebuilding, cleaning your carbs and your running OxyFuel you deserve every problem you encounter.
All bikes from the 80's ran lean from EPA stuff in the first place. Using Oxyfuel makes them leaner yet. They were not designed to run it. I havent seen to many products that can clean gummed up(stale fuel residue) in carbs. If someone has found something that works, by all means try it as you have nothing to lose and very much to gain.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I moved into my new house here in Utah and the only negative thing about it is the garage gets really hot during the summer. I'm sure it gets over 100 degrees. I hadn't been riding the GS much and I went out after about 8-10 days to warm it up and exercise the suspension, etc. I tried to turn the throttle and couldn't believe it was stuck. The heat in the garage had obviously effected the fuel. I had just taken the carbs apart about 6 months earlier for a minor rebuild and cleaning so I was in no mood to take them off again. I've had little, if any success with fuel cleaners in the past, though that was with cars only. I decided to at least try a cleaner first to see if it would do anything. The car mechanic we've used for years said to try Techron. I also put in some Sta-bil that's used to keep fuel fresh during storage. I put both products in at a little more than the suggested mixture ratio. I started the bike and the throttle was still very stiff after a minute, stiff enough that I didn't want to turn it much. The bike was also "spitting" a bit which is a sign of fuel starvation. I was about to give up but I let it run a few more minutes and the throttle began working smoothly. I went out for about 20 minutes and noticed the spitting was gone and it was idling smoothly. So far so good, even though I'm not riding it much, mostly 5-10 minute warm ups at least every 7 days. I would think the fuel flow improvement was mostly the Techron but I can't be sure because the Sta-bil may have had something to do with it. I was really surprised at the results. I keep Sta-bil in it now as a habit. I'm also making sure the fuel stays fresher by getting less fuel at a time and keeping a record. I sure don't want something similar to happen to the ZX or my old Blazer.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

limeex2, regarding oxygenated fuel. I've always tried to buy fuel from Chevron, or at least a brand I'm comfortable with. I admit I've never given much thought to reading the info on the gas pumps. Only thing I've paid any attention to besides the octane rating, is the percent of Ethanol it contains.
Living most of my life in California, I'd hear on the news that the suppliers would change to their "winter or summer blends" that I assume involves the oxygen content? My point is, I've always thought that your choices are very limited when selecting a fuel. Are you saying you have a choice of buying "non-oxygenated fuel" or "oxygenated fuel"? Hope I'm not sounding like an idiot, but I'm willing to learn.

 

[limeex2]

No you dont sound like.. nor am I an authority, but I was a m/c service mgr for 19 years and have seen and experienced the problems that arise from its use. We have Oxyfuel for "normal" use. Its 10% alcohol. Many stations in Mn.now have dedicated pumps with Non-Oxyfuel. Its labeled for use in "cars prior to ??, m/c, off road" ect. Ive heard of winter blends, but not sure what they are. With so many Hot Rods and older cars you should be able to buy it in Ca., but Ca. has some interesting clean air rules too.

 

[earlfor]

If one uses non-oxygenated fuel you dont need Startron or Seafoam. Startron works good to combat the problems associated with oxygenated fuel. I will not use oxygenated fuel in ANY motor that has a carburator. It eats o-rings, diaphragms ect and has a shelf life in your carbs of about 4-6 weeks. Sitting for 4 weeks my Triumph starts very hard and it was designed to run 87 octane Oxyfuel. Drain the float bowls first and it fires right up. Snowblower wont even start on the stuff. I wont even comment on SeaFoam, it would be like starting an oil thread. If you just spent tons of $$$ rebuilding, cleaning your carbs and your running OxyFuel you deserve every problem you encounter.
All bikes from the 80's ran lean from EPA stuff in the first place. Using Oxyfuel makes them leaner yet. They were not designed to run it. I havent seen to many products that can clean gummed up(stale fuel residue) in carbs. If someone has found something that works, by all means try it as you have nothing to lose and very much to gain.

I've have always used non ethanol gas in the bike. (other than the occasional fill up when it wasn't available) I'm not using the Lubegard because of, or with ethanol.

Quite the opposite really. heh My normal non ethanol station is under reconstruction and not selling gas, so I had to locate another source for non ethanol gas. Unknown to me, it appears they sell so little of it that their tanks have a high level of sludge and debris, so much so that the bike was throttling down and trying to die. On checking things out, I found the gas I had just pumped when drained in to a cup, was literally black and about 1/4 silt. I had the worst fuel system clog up I have ever seen. I think the only thing that saved me was there was so much silt and sludge that it completely blocked the filter screen on the petcock. But still, some of it got through. I replaced the petcock, flushed the tank, drained the bowls and now am to the fuel system cleaner. It's supposed to break down petroleum particulates which as far as I can tell, is slowly doing that over a span of about 400 miles.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The difference in winter and summer blends is the Reid Vapor Pressure. The RVP dictates the rate of fuel evaporation. Winter blends have a higher RVP to help them burn more easily in colder temp's, while summer blends have a lower RVP to avoid excessive evaporation in hotter temp's. Winter blends help an engine start easier and idle more smoothly. Summer blends help avoid vapor lock in older vehicles, among other emissions benefits.
I haven't noticed any non-oxygenated fuel pumps in my parts of Utah or California. If non-oxygenated fuel is better for carbureted engines, I doubt we'll be seeing any out here as the powers that be would rather see older vehicles, especially carbureted, off the roads. California is a haven for older vehicles but I haven't seen a choice of fuel yet.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I've have always used non ethanol gas in the bike. (other than the occasional fill up when it wasn't available) I'm not using the Lubegard because of, or with ethanol.

All I've seen here in Utah is fuel with "up to 10% Ethanol". I'm pretty sure it's the same in Calif'. (Man, my memory is getting bad). Do certain brands carry non-Ethanol fuel or is just something offered in specific areas?

 

[earlfor]

I haven't noticed any non-oxygenated fuel pumps in my parts of Utah or California.

As far as I know, all states allow the sale of non ethanol gas for farm equipment, boats, small engines/motorcycles. I will bet none of the local lawn maintenance businesses or boating centers use ethanol at all.

https://www.pure-gas.org/

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Don't get me mixed up, earl. I was talking about the availability of "non-oxygenated" fuel, not "non-ethanol fuel".
Your reply about non-ethanol fuel maybe selling slow and sitting longer in the tanks kinda scares me off anyway.
Now, what's the advantages of running non-ethanol fuel? Oh, I'm sorry about your thread changing subject. Just kinda evolved that way.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Wait a minute...is non-oxygenated and non-ethanol the same thing?