Gasket Maker Advice

[mako19]

I am replacing my petcock and the old rubber gasket that prevents the gas from leaking went around the two bolts that held on the petcock. This part makes sence to me because it would stop the gas from the tank from leaking down the bolts.

On the other hand my replacement petcock from Z1 the rubber gasket goes around the out side of the petcock housing and does not partition off the bolts. I am afraid that if I put the new petcock on the gas will just leak down the bolts.

My question is does that gasket maker in tube get eaten away by gas. I want to put a bead around the bolts to make a nice gas tight seal.

Thanks for the help in advance.

This is the last peice of the puzzle and I should be riding this weekend so I hope this works. It is going to be awsome weather this weekend in the northeast so I hope to see you guys out there.

 

[spyug]

If the new petcock seal doesn't cover the bolt area there are usually rubber washers that fit tight to the bolts. If not and you want some security you could apply some automotive "Goop" or silicone to threads. Alternatively, you can try wrapping some teflon tape to the threads.

Im my experience, I've never encountered a leak down the bolts so you may be worrying needlessly. Put the petcock in with the hardware supplied and see what happens when you put in the gas.

Let us know.

good luck and happy riding. Going to be an excellent weekend for it.

cheers,
spyug.

 

[80GS1000]

Teflon tape around the bolts works nicely. That's what I did with my petcock on the bolts and there have been no leaks.

 

[Nessism]

Suzuki uses special metal washers with a rubber seal molded into the ID area to seal the screws. I strongly advise getting the proper sealing washers and bypass sealing goop and tape to make the seal.

 

[Turtleface]

I misplaced a few of these washers, and re-ordered. Actually, I ordered them for my valve cover. I checked against the part number for MY fuel petcock, and they seem to be the same part. Now I have more than I currently need. If it's the right size, I have two you could have. What's the year and model of your bike?

 

[mako19]

Turtleface,

I have a 1978 GS550. It has the 44mm bolt spaceing. If you have some that will work you can PM me if you want and we can work something out.


The threads are not what I am concerned about. The bolts just push through the petcock itself and then screw into the bolts welded in the tank. the gap around the bolt and the petcock is what I am worried about leaking so the washers will probabley work.

The washers were so old that they just vanished when I pulled them out.

 

[Turtleface]

Yep, they're the same part number. All yours! Whereabouts in upstate NY are you from?

 

[mako19]

Turtleface,

I sent you a PM

 

[bwringer]

You need the sealing washers.

No worries, though -- 1/4" nylon washers from any hardware store work perfectly.

 

[Guest]

My question is does that gasket maker in tube get eaten away by gas. I want to put a bead around the bolts to make a nice gas tight seal. .

Most silicone (RVT) ones specify they are not to be used in applications where there is constant contact with gasoline.
Tony.

 

[Nessism]

Not to go against Brian here but please get the proper washers (which are called bonded seals). Using nylon washers in a compression situation is risky since the plastic will creep with time and relax, thus allowing a leak. Plus, nylon is not the best seal material.

With the factory seals the screw and petcock capture a non-compressible metal washer, which also has a rubber seal in the ID to seal any possible fuel leakage. When using this kind of seal it’s important to use a shouldered screw so the seal has a smooth surface to seal against. Do not use a lock washer which will disrupt the seal.

http://www.zycon.com/ShowImage.asp?compid=220166&iid=10595

http://potterassoc.com/PDF/o_rings/Bonded Seal Information and Sizing Chart.pdf

If you are in a pinch situation you can use an O-ring around the screw along with a medium thickness washer such that the OD of the O-ring fairly closely matches the ID in the washer. The washer needs to be thinner than the thickness of the O-ring as well. The idea is to capture the O-ring inside the washer ID, so when the O-ring is pinched down it will fill up the space and seal off any possible fuel leakage.