GS 1000 G filter box, this absurd creature.

[Alexander]

Removing the filter and carburettors is child's play, reassembling everything is not.
The carburetors don't require much effort and are easy to reassemble, but the airbox is a puzzle I haven't been able to figure out. I have two OEM ones and the latter is like new, with soft and intact cones, on the filter they both show the acronym GS1000G but when I go to reassemble they don't fit, I've tried every way if I insert the first one, I see the last one far away a centimeter.
The only system is to remove them from the hole and with a lot of effort per hour they enter the carburettors, but they do not coincide with the hole, with the result that they are not airtight, does anyone have experience with this, thanks​

 

[Rob S.]

Dremel. Then pods. :indecisiveness:

 

[salty_monk]

The 1000G was a very simple airbox to fit from memory of mine... Probably the easiest of all the GS's. Maybe you have something wrong with you setup. It's possible from memory that the Rubbers are LH and RH. If you have them switched or rotated that could cause your problem.

 

[dpep]

The 1000G was a very simple airbox to fit from memory of mine... Probably the easiest of all the GS's. Maybe you have something wrong with you setup. It's possible from memory that the Rubbers are LH and RH. If you have them switched or rotated that could cause your problem.

Assuming they are the same as for the 850G that is definitely the case.

I have found it difficult to get the airbox on the carbs but my rubbers were not exactly primo most times.

If you think it would help to make the boots more pliable you can try soaking them in a wintergreen oil solution for a while.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...uel-exhaust/1700018-worth-buying-airbox-boots

 

[unfocused]

VM26's or CV carbs? Different boxes

 

[dgates1]

They definitely have a "R" and "L" on them and are offset differently. There is also a little dot/bump on the rubber that needs to be oriented straight down. Lines up with the dot/bump on the airbox.

 

[Alexander]

I have a doubt that the tires are not for the 1980 model with the Mikuni BS34SS but for the previous models, I will try to match the protuberances with the notches on the box and see if I can fit them in, however LH and RH are ok but which way does it go considered, front view of carburetor or box which would be the opposite?, I imagine carburetor view.
Also tried with a bit of silicone grease but it was a bad idea, they don't stay in place once tightened. I did a thousand searches without finding a match​

 

[Alexander]

in my opinion they should be like this, with the two sides very decentralized to fit well, but mine seem almost straight, too bad these are for FZ110

 

[2BRacing]

..... I will try to match the protuberances with the notches on the box and see if I can fit them in, however LH and RH are ok but which way does it go considered, front view of carburetor or box which would be the opposite?, I imagine carburetor view.

They definitely have a "R" and "L" on them and are offset differently. There is also a little dot/bump on the rubber that needs to be oriented straight down. Lines up with the dot/bump on the airbox.

The markings look like this:

and this:

As you sit on the bike, LH side is on your left (so the view looking forward from the airbox into the carb intake), and RH side is on your right.

 

[Alexander]

They definitely have a "R" and "L" on them and are offset differently. There is also a little dot/bump on the rubber that needs to be oriented straight down. Lines up with the dot/bump on the airbox.

The markings look like this: and this:
As you sit on the bike, LH side is on your left (so the view looking forward from the airbox into the carb intake), and RH side is on your right.

Super!!!
great 2BRacing they are!
I had noticed these dots, initially I thought about rubber moulding, then I tried above and below, I looked for a reference on the box but I don't remember finding it and I abandoned the initial idea. So I put them as they went.
Now if I can I'll try to rotate directly and find the position, thanks again!​

 

[Rob S.]

Try accessing a battery on an 11EZ or ED with a stock (2 piece) airbox. :-\\\

 

[2BRacing]

.....I looked for a reference on the box but I don't remember finding it and I abandoned the initial idea......

As has been said by dgates1, there is a raised dot/bump below each hole in the airbox (at 6 o'clock position) exactly the same as the dot on the rubber. The dot on the rubber must also be at the bottom (6 o'clock position).

 

[Alexander]

Try accessing a battery on an 11EZ or ED with a stock (2 piece) airbox. :-\\\

Are they compatible?, but if I have to make a mess, then I put 4 cone filters or similar systems and bye air box

 

[salty_monk]

There is no real benefit to using Pods on the 1000G... I did that & went back to the airbox.

 

[Alexander]

As has been said by dgates1, there is a raised dot/bump below each hole in the airbox (at 6 o'clock position) exactly the same as the dot on the rubber. The dot on the rubber must also be at the bottom (6 o'clock position).

I didn't remember having a photo before assembly, but the mark on the metal cannot be seen and it seems to be inserted on the opposite side, it arrived assembled and I think I left it like that, tomorrow I'll dismantle it for the 1001st time and I'll keep your tips and help secret Let's see if I can assemble it correctly this time!​​

 

[Alexander]

There is no real benefit to using Pods on the 1000G... I did that & went back to the airbox.

it's only due to the breakage of having disassembled it a thousand times, the original has its charm and is built to last over time.

 

[Alexander]

As has been said by dgates1, there is a raised dot/bump below each hole in the airbox (at 6 o'clock position) exactly the same as the dot on the rubber. The dot on the rubber must also be at the bottom (6 o'clock position).

I can try endlessly but there is 1 cm missing here.
I believe that at this point the two side tires are not the correct ones, for now I have left them out of their seats and I put silicone in the two side ones.
I want to take a ride before senile dementia​ :biggrin:

 

[2BRacing]

Hey Alex, looking at the photo of your airbox in post 15, I think this is the dot mark for the outer cylinder. The other outer cylinder would also be more towards the inside and not at the bottom 6 o' clock position. The 2 inside cylinders are at the 6 o' clock position. Maybe this will solve your measurement problem as shown in post 17.

EDIT: Or are my eyes fooling me and that is just a piece of dirt??

 

[Alexander]

Hey Alex, looking at the photo of your airbox in post 15, I think this is the dot mark for the outer cylinder. The other outer cylinder would also be more towards the inside and not at the bottom 6 o' clock position. The 2 inside cylinders are at the 6 o' clock position. Maybe this will solve your measurement problem as shown in post 17. Or are my eyes fooling me and that is just a piece of dirt??

hi, I have a second air box worse than the one below, everything seems to be fine, the point is below, I think it's standard for the GS1000G. However, the measurement doesn't add up, that cm is always missing. I think the tires are not his, besides the code says GS1000GL and it is a different bike and you want to see that the new ones below are also from the GL while the G has the BS34SS and a different size.​

 

[2BRacing]

hi, I have a second air box worse than the one below, everything seems to be fine, the point is below, I think it's standard for the GS1000G. However, the measurement doesn't add up, that cm is always missing. I think the tires are not his, besides the code says GS1000GL and it is a different bike and you want to see that the new ones below are also from the GL while the G has the BS34SS and a different size.​

Looking at the parts diagrams on www.alpha-sports.com and www.partzilla.com it is indeed true that GS1000G and GS1000GL have different rubber connections ("Hoses") between airbox and carbs. I did not know that. Hope you get it sorted out!