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gs1000 hydraulic clutch

Hyd. Cl.

Hyd. Cl.

I am also trying to do it on my
GS11's. I am also trying to trim the field too.
I have a few parts left if you need some. Master cylinder and maybe a spare slave.
I need to have the tranny modified and make a seal holder for the left side of the trans shaft along with some guide for the pushrod. The right side may be ready to accept the pusher but the hole needs to be deepend some and the main hold through the shaft needs to be bored out all the was through. I was talking to R&D in Florida to do it but since I lost my job, I have to wait.
GREG
 
Tricky - there was a post on here not long ago about a guy who'd done it on another bike (Yamaha?) and was going to have a go on his GS.

(And there's you suggesting to Turbo Billy not to waste his money.........we're all blo*dy mad:dancing:)
 
H.c.

H.c.

(What?)
It's been done before. Someone in California with a red GS11E. Used Interceptor parts.
It was in an old Motorcyclist mag.
GREG
 
hampshirehog said:
Tricky - there was a post on here not long ago about a guy who'd done it on another bike (Yamaha?) and was going to have a go on his GS.

(And there's you suggesting to Turbo Billy not to waste his money.........we're all blo*dy mad:dancing:)
Click to expand...
seen the yamaha one, its completely different to a gs set up, looking at the one on OSS, looks fairly straight forward but means i will have to modify my outrigger bearing plate
 
If it ain't broke, Why fix it?????? I thought they had been working fine since 1977
 
Understandable

Understandable

I really want to run this mod. Better reaction, lower travel, lower effort, cleaner looks and no more playing with cable routing. There's a multitude of reasons to do it and I'm afraid that the old 'ain't broke don't fix it' addage is a load of hogwash. There was no problem with this bike, or many other bikes, but manufacturers continue to develop improvements. Could you really say the same to them?

Anyone able to spot a how-to article somewhere? I haven't been able to find anything thus far...
 
Everyone sees things differently. No better reaction than a solid link from clutch lever to pressure plate, as with a cable. Hydrolic may be as good, but not better. You're probably right about lower travel & lower effort. Depends on the look you like, I like the look of the very small clutch perch on the handlebar than the big master cylinder & reservoir. I like the looks of the 1/4" OD cable better than a 1/2" OD hydraulic hose coming off the handlebar. The little rubber boot & chrome actuator arm on the clutch cover is barely noticable, I would think if you put a slave cylinder on there, it would be much more noticable. And I'm sure the routing of the big hydraulic hose would be as much or more aggrivating than the routing of that little cable, if you want to change handlebar heights, you can get different leingth cables, without having them special made, as you would with a hose. I guess I'm looking at it as with cars. I drove my dodge truck 260,000 mi over the 22 yrs I owned it, & when I got rid of it, it had the orig. clutch cable on it. My brother replaced his hydraulic clutch system on his "98" ford truck in 2004, 5 yr old & 70,000 mi. A $10 universal joint does the same thing as a $125 CV joint, & a $125 strut does the same thing as a $15 shock. Sometimes mfg's do make improvements, and sometimes they just want you to think they are improvements. Look at the Suzuki pet cock for 1980. In 1981 they went back to the earlier system, because the "NEW & IMPROVED" was so screwed up. If you want a hydraulic clutch, I really hope you get it worked out, I want everyone to be happy, but if you want it because it's newer & more modern, give it some thought. Remember, General motors used hydraulic clutches back in the early 1960's, till they found linkages & cables worked much better, with much less maintenance. Just my opinion. Good luck,
 
gryyphyn said:
I really want to run this mod. Better reaction, lower travel, lower effort, cleaner looks and no more playing with cable routing. There's a multitude of reasons to do it and I'm afraid that the old 'ain't broke don't fix it' addage is a load of hogwash. There was no problem with this bike, or many other bikes, but manufacturers continue to develop improvements. Could you really say the same to them?
Click to expand...

There are lots of modern/current bikes running cable clutch actuation. Not saying hydraulic is bad, just different. Personally, I don't see the point of adding complexity on a 30 year old motorcycle.
 
Nessism said:
There are lots of modern/current bikes running cable clutch actuation. Not saying hydraulic is bad, just different. Personally, I don't see the point of adding complexity on a 30 year old motorcycle.
Click to expand...

I'd never even seen a hydraulic clutch til I started tearing the RF900 apart and thought "What the F is this other master cylinder for?". When I saw where the line ended I figured it out.
 
im still working on it. got a few things planned out. looking for a suitable slave cylinder. the tl1000s looks favourite so far
 
How about a rear master cylinder along with a bellcrank of some sort to convert the pushrod into a pulling device to replace the cable?
 
Nessism said:
How about a rear master cylinder along with a bellcrank of some sort to convert the pushrod into a pulling device to replace the cable?
Click to expand...
good point, i have looked into that as well but its how to mount it on the crankcases. i got a local supplier from work looking into a hydraulic cylinder that will screw into the origonal threads of the clutch cable
 
If you turn the actuator arm arount, then it will need to be pushed instead of pulled.
 
Loved the hydraulic clutch on my Big Bandito, so this is something that I have been thinking about. It's been two years since the last post on this thread. Have any of you guys who posted on this thread back then had any luck with making this mod? Or did it prove too difficult and was abandoned because it presented too many technical problems to overcome at a cost effective price?
 
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