GS100G clutch

[Nessism]

When you open the clutch, this is what you will find: The friction plates will look perfect, and measure in spec. Again, in most cases, all you need is new springs and the clutch will work just fine. That said, the friction plates are more than 40 years old at this point. The friction material tends to petrify with all the years, so replacing them won't hurt. Mind you, it may not be needed per se, either. I've never replaced a friction disc on any UJM bike I've ever fixed, other than a GS1000, where the clutch dragged, making finding neutral difficult. The clutch plates measured fine, and didn't slip, but they were slightly warped, which increased drag.

 

[rphillips]

My guess you'll find nothing wrong with the plates, fiber nor steel regardless of age. Just say'in if you lay a fiber plate down and look at it, you'll probably not see a crack even if there's one there. It will be almost invisible as the edges fit tight right back together. Kind'f gently twist on each of them, if crack is there those edges will pop right apart. The edges of the little "dogs" around the outer edge of the fiber plates will probably be flattened a little, that's just normal.

 

[Alexander]

even though it is not so exploited, certainly the years play an important role and once dismantled, it is worth renewing the clutch discs regardless, what do I do, take the original ones or do you have any advice on equally valid spare parts, at obviously lower costs? thanks

 

[chuck hahn]

As i think i said i use a lot of CALTRIC parts on many brands of my customers bikes. Thet have proven to me over the years to be quality supplier.

 

[Alexander]

As i think i said i use a lot of CALTRIC parts on many brands of my customers bikes. Thet have proven to me over the years to be quality supplier.

even though it is not so used, certainly the years play an important role and once dismantled,
it is advisable to renew the clutch discs and springs regardless. In the end I purchased 9 OEM clutch discs,
I wanted to ruin myself

 

[rphillips]

No doubt you're the type that want everything as renewed as possible just to be assured you'll have no problems. No doubt a very good way of thinking. One more thought, the clutch cable is by far the most common clutch related problem that may leave you stranded. While addressing clutch, add a new cable and you'll shouldn't need to think of the word "clutch" for a long time... luck to ya.

 

[Alexander]

No doubt you're the type that want everything as renewed as possible just to be assured you'll have no problems. No doubt a very good way of thinking. One more thought, the clutch cable is by far the most common clutch related problem that may leave you stranded. While addressing clutch, add a new cable and you'll shouldn't need to think of the word "clutch" for a long time... luck to ya.

the cable was the first thing i changed, but i actually have to see if the path is correct and not force somewhere. Once i disassemble everything i will be able to see the state.

 

[Alexander]

Rainy day and bike under the cover, as soon as the weather improves I replace a plastic elbow of the car's turbine.
By now I was in the game and I throw myself on the bike, all the spare parts are there.
I remove the oil and find it very liquid, evidently the commercial synthetic is not good for this bike
and certainly between worn springs and oil, the clutch tends to slip during acceleration.
I disassemble everything and find everything in order and not very worn.
The bell that holds the package has a slight play, I think it's normal at 20K.
The traction discs and the steel ones are still perfect, just worn. Replaced with the originals but in my opinion the company
sent me two models, the first identical the others with the thicker and smaller studs.
I mount the reinforced Luis springs and close with new screws and here too I find some identical cross-shaped ones,
others with the hexagonal head.
Unfortunately I will have to wait until the end of a trade fair I am involved in to try the bike,
it is still in winter trim.​

 

[Alexander]

I finally managed to try the new clutch, I'd say perfect! I should have listened to those who recommended the OEM springs,
these reinforced ones from Louis seem a bit hard, let's hope because they're new.

 

[rphillips]

Yes, most I've seen that aren't OEM are pretty dang stiff. I've seen folks do it and it worked fine, just remove 2 of the 6 stiff springs, on opposite sides of the pressure plate. the remaining 4 should be relatively close to the 6 OEM. If you find something that was amiss, then get OEM.

 

[Nessism]

Yes, most I've seen that aren't OEM are pretty dang stiff. I've seen folks do it and it worked fine, just remove 2 of the 6 stiff springs, on opposite sides of the pressure plate. the remaining 4 should be relatively close to the 6 OEM. If you find something that was amiss, then get OEM.

I've heard of people mixing and matching OEM springs and aftermarket. I wouldn't run with missing springs entirely.

 

[rphillips]

That's all good, I'd probably not be comfortable with it either if I'd not seen it before. Alexander probably won't do that either, and I can't blame him. He seems like he'd rather spend the little extra to have things the way the Co. designed it... I's just putting in there things that I've seen work and saw no neg. from it.

 

[Alexander]

Yes, most I've seen that aren't OEM are pretty dang stiff. I've seen folks do it and it worked fine, just remove 2 of the 6 stiff springs, on opposite sides of the pressure plate. the remaining 4 should be relatively close to the 6 OEM. If you find something that was amiss, then get OEM.

yes I'll give them a few more test miles, then I'll throw them in the trash

 

[Alexander]

nice day and I take a ride of about 40 Mi to understand how the clutch is going.
The springs as I imagined make the lever too hard, almost painful if used with two fingers.
I will take the original ones, as always with OEM spare parts you can't go wrong.
When I pull the lever and as soon as the disc pack loosens I hear a slightly strong friction noise then it stops when it is completely open,
I don't understand if it has to do this because the discs are new and need to settle in, or maybe it is pulled too much almost to
the maximum and I have to loosen a bit, or the reinforced springs somehow influence it,
but these have their hours numbered anyway!​

 

[Alexander]

I've heard of people mixing and matching OEM springs and aftermarket. I wouldn't run with missing springs entirely.

NO in fact I would never do it! and I don't think it's something I could recommend.
I always go with OEM spare parts if available, first because whoever designed them even if 50 years ago,
wasn't an idiot on the contrary, secondly they were specifically designed and optimized for this bike
and the materials available at the time.

 

[rphillips]

Well Alex, I like your way of thinking of OEM, but just say'in, even Suzuki engineers mess up. The Suzuki clutch hubs (baskets) were terribly under engineered, just a normal thing for rivets being pulled through backing plates and busted hubs, also had to be careful as many times the oil pump would go with the clutch hub... Another thing, you mentioned idiot, How well engineered, or thought out, was the batt. warning light? It showed if the water level in "one" of the 6 batt cells was low. So if other 5 were completely dry, as long as that one had water the light would not be indicating a problem. But I still like what your do'in, with OEM., it's hard to go wrong. Glad you've got things worked out.

 

[Alexander]

the reinforced springs lasted the time of one outing,
then removed too hard for me! returned with OEM springs
and the difference is really noticeable, now it's really perfect!

 

[Alexander]

I don't know if I should be worried or it was just a bad dream, when I disassembled the clutch, inside the rack shaft, where the thrust bearing is located, there was a small pin in place inside.
I am convinced that I saw it and put it back in its place, yet the second time I disassembled the clutch, there are no traces of this pin, perhaps it remained inside but with the screwdriver you can't feel anything moving. In the cross-section you can see the piece with the number 2 but I can't find any other reference online, not even in all the tutorials I have seen so far, should I be worried? Thank you

 

[rphillips]

I've wondered about that thing since the early "80's" and never saw nor heard what it did. I don't think it's a pin, but a tiny rubber plug. Possibly prevent a rattle between 2 metal parts??? I can't imagine it's too critical but as I don't know, I just don't know... Congrats with getting the springs sorted.

 

[Alexander]

I've wondered about that thing since the early "80's" and never saw nor heard what it did. I don't think it's a pin, but a tiny rubber plug. Possibly prevent a rattle between 2 metal parts??? I can't imagine it's too critical but as I don't know, I just don't know... Congrats with getting the springs sorted.

the description says saddle, it must be something that acts as a stop and prevents the rack pin from retracting and rubbing against the n10 nut,
I'm just trying to imagine, having only seen it once