G
GS1100GK
Guest
Josh is right, the aluminum castings are very easy to damage. Myself, I do more damage with razor blades and other scraping tools. The Roloc wheel (green, I know no other way to classify them) was awesome. It would eat any gasket or sealant (even 1207B), but not touch aluminum. You know the drill, test someplace that doesn't matter first.
The wire wheels with a Dremel are another matter. They will move aluminum if you let them, but they are forgiving enough that you can get some work done in tight places. They do fling a lot of wire chunks though. I can't remember if the stainless or brass lasts longer.
1. Cams and chain are pretty straightforward. Just do what the book says.
2. Pretty sure you can get a long board under the end of the 550's head. Hammer on the end of the board. The end away from the head, wise guy.
3. I tried gasket remover spray once, though I don't remember which brand. The result was a slightly darker base gasket that still wouldn't move. This is where I ended up using the Dremel.
Thanks again, Dale.
Which end of the board?
3. Gasket remover. The head and valve cover will be off, can use aircraft stripper or white 3M roloc (according to 3M's website brochure this is the color for aluminum, eq to 120 grit) bristle brush. Good suggestion.
For the base that will remain in the bike, I am now concerned about abrasive/dust with the roloc or seals if we use a stripper. I've heard strippers are pretty hard on rubbers and viton seals. Imagine it's a bit like putting your orings in Berryman's.
Don't want to get into crank seals or transmission issues
Who knows...at least the price of scrap aluminum is up!
- JC