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GS750E Rebuild Update

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kcwiro
  • Start date Start date
I have a set of stock pipes & Cans for sale for a GS750, see the For Sale section, headers look a little different, the middle ones aren't joined.

Presumably they will fit any 750 as there are no model numbers on them.

IMGP0503.jpg


more pics: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/salty_monk/Suzuki/

Dan :)
 
they look very nice but looking at them they don't look like I would be able to mate them with my bike.. the mufflers I got are secured to the rear foot pegs ... yours look hooked up the the front ones... not sure if that would matter or not but I'm a rookie here :-D but going by what I have seen I don't think i would be able to use these...I'll look into the muffler only replacement vs going full replacement


Never thought bike would require this much thinking in the project =). So I have full info what do jet kits run for anyway? ... need to do some more number crunching... still got time to consider this since I just ordered my pingel valve and adapter plate. ty... chuckycheese for the info on that. Still need to get new o-rings engine and airbox some are torn others are cracking big time. Have that site around somewhere in my notes.

Brake lines I think after the engine will be next anyone have any down points on doing stainless steel lines? If there are any. Keep the dialog coming I'm getting a lot of info so I'm open for opinions. Thank you

Also thanks salty for the offer on your pipes
 
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Expect between $60-120 for the jet kit. Like I said, those little pieces of brass are expensive. Z1 Enterprises is probably your best bet unless you can find a set cheap on Ebay. Just get the Dynojet part # from their website and check around.

As far as stainless lines go, I've never had any problems using Russell universal lines and their fittings. Measure your old lines, make any modifications for taller/shorter handlebars, etc, and use the same angles/fittings as the factory lines (45 degree bend, etc.). Some of the guys here have had luck finding places that custom make hydraulic line in braided stainless cheap. Check around locally. Dennis Kirk, JP Cycles metric, even JC Whitney might carry universal braided lines.
 
Definitely do the rings while you are in there...

Definitely do the rings while you are in there...

unless the old ones are very nearly new, hone the cylinders and replace the rings. If you do replace them you need to break them in, and when you do that is not the time to be messing around with incorrect mixtures. The engine needs to be running as nearly perfect as possible to break it in correctly. So keep the stock exhaust for now, fix the hole with JB weld or replace the pipe but do not go with an aftermarket pipe at this time. Wait untill the engine is broken in to do the pipe.
 
What is the length to properly break in the new rings?... can't imagine it being too many miles really. Engine if the busted odo was correct had approx 40k miles on it. the condition of what I have seen in the engine draws me to think it is pretty close.

I'll have the pistons removed soon enough so I will be able to check on their wear when I get them out. If things go good I will perhaps just have to do the valve job and likely replace the rings. I will see what I can find to temporarily fix the exhaust so once the carbs and engine are back in one piece I can get it set properly.

Thanks for the tip
 
I was thinking of going with the kit this site offers. I got the link from another thread about Stainless steel lines. Anyone had dealings with them before that can offer an opinion on them?

http://www.paragonperformance.com

Search on paragon, there's plenty of discussion about their products here on the forum. I just replaced my 3 brake lines from Spieglerusa.com. I like theirs cause I could choose the fitting and banjo bolt colors I wanted. Lot more expensive than I was thinking they would be tho (>$200) but you might do better.
 
I'll check them out... awesome avatar btw ... that had me laughing when I first noticed it
 
making another crack at getting this block to come off.... I drenched the thing in PB Blaster last night so it was litterally coming out of the head bolts... lets see it not get loose off that.[-o<

Will update later tonight..stay tuned
 
I've probably sold the headers so you can buy just the cans if you want.... The part number is in the photo's.

Rear mounts look the same & same position as yours, not sure why mine have the extra front fixing... maybe someone can enlighten us...
 
Success!!!

After more grunting and yanking from my friend and myself...and the help of a piece of would we broke the seal on the base gasket... man that gasket was toast... some of it came off on both parts of it.

That completes the motor tear down :-D now my friend and myself are beginning the cleanup work on everything. I have plunty of simple green and a small razor blade (only if necessary), and some gasket remover. I'll get before and after pictures as we make progress.

----

Salty:

I would certainly like to know myself what the deal is with the extra mount myself. Support we will see if someone chimes in and offers advice on that. I have an older factory manual I will look through and see fi I can find anything while we wait.
 
after about four hours of cleaning and scrapping, the head and block are cleaned up and ready for me to take to work and blast the buildup away at work...then off the the machine shop... whats left of the engine on the bike still will get its attention soon enough. The o-rings on the block...dam! those things are brittle! and are giving some trouble on getting them out in anything but pieces. Don't think there is much I can do on that really except scrape away until it is all out of there.

Do I have to worry about the tub at work hurting anything in particular on the head?

Also can anyone tell me about the camshafts...I've looked at them and they seem ok...but I don't know if they last as long as Car engine shafts or not. How long can bikes camshafts really last?
 
Regarding the camshafts, visually inspect them for pitts and measure the lobe height - the factory service manual has specs. on the service limit. One of the best things about the old 8 valve engines is their durable valve train so my guess is that you are going to be in good shape.

Good luck.
 
Regarding the camshafts, visually inspect them for pitts and measure the lobe height - the factory service manual has specs. on the service limit. One of the best things about the old 8 valve engines is their durable valve train so my guess is that you are going to be in good shape.

Good luck.

question... the whole 8-valve/16-valve thing, as I think I understand it... I have 16 valves... unless you are not supposed to count the exhaust ones... or am I totally off in my thinking... silly but things like that always seem to leave me scratching my head.
 
well got everything cleaned up and in the shop now with them inspecting all my pieces to gauge what I might need to replace. I will know once I get the suggested parts list from them..good thing is they are letting me apply the inspection fee to any work they might do for me so it won't cost me very much at all which is very cool of them.

I will post their findings once I hear from them ... probably will be next week before I hear anything but we'll see
 
question... the whole 8-valve/16-valve thing, as I think I understand it... I have 16 valves... unless you are not supposed to count the exhaust ones... or am I totally off in my thinking... silly but things like that always seem to leave me scratching my head.


In '79 or '80 I think Suzuki switched from the 8-valve heads to the twin-cam 16-valve heads you see on most inline fours today.
 
8 or 16 valves is the total number of valves, including exhaust.

Dink
 
Ok got it... thanks for clearing that up for me guys.

Question:

I noticed the boots that cover where the spark plug attach to the spark plug are cracked rather bad. Is there any reason for concern on this...or should I worry only when they stop working?

Stupid question likely but figured i'd get everyone's two cents on this
 
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Well.. current issue aside I heard back from the shop on my block and head inspections... Result OUCH!!

exhaust cam is worn beyond service limits....pistons are also with the rings...valves are good but rockers are in need of replacement.

Little math here equals sheet and ultimate shock... the result is time to tuck up the sleeves and dive in with getting new parts and getting the block re-bored fitted with new pistons and re-ringed... then my friend and I will tackle the head work and continue on with the other parts of this little project my friend and I have started.

Suppose the plus thing is I will have a near complete top end rebuild in the end... pricey but what hell I guess and go for it. :-D
 
You can get universal new spark plug sockets and the rubber grommets from the top and bottom from any dealership and most parts catalogs. Just get the same angle and close to the same length and they'll work. I recommend NGK, and the sockets (I know that's not the correct name but it's late and I'm tired and not thinking straight) are only about $4-8 each, the grommets are around a buck apiece. Those cracks could lead to a rather nasty experience if you ever get caught in the rain.
 
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