GSX1150 Rebuild

[wyly]

So now I needed to get the engine back in the frame so i could see if it would run. In previous restorations i have used the 'Tip the engine over and lower the frame over it" approach. Easy enough when he frame is bare but this was still fully assembled and i really couldn't be bothered dismantling it so an alternate approach was required.

Installing an engine on your own is a challenge, it's good to see another method of installation.

I'll be doing the same in a couple of months but as mine will be complete tear down to paint the frame, So I get to lay the engine on it's side and drop the frame on it which I've never tried before.

 

[Rob S.]

Real go it aloners. Reminds me of me in college, changing engines on a VW bug and my '68 Camaro virtually single-handed. 20-year-olds have a lot of energy.

 

[oldGSfan]

Good work. You can do it with a hoist on it side without removing too much stuff but I know that tail section can be a pain. Harbor Freight furniture dolly underneath, chain hoist also from HF so the investment was about $60. I use it all the time as I don't trust those lifts that are only under the frame. For chain, fork, tire work etc. I put the loop under the seat through the frame rails. On the front, through the neck if the tank's still on.

Rob - I once put a 1600 dual port upright in a VW bus and no problem all by myself until putting the bolts in from behind the shroud. Arms just wouldn't fit, required shorter arms and smaller fingers I guess. Asked my wife for help, and she popped them in faster that I could believe.

 

[Rob S.]

Rob - I once put a 1600 dual port upright in a VW bus and no problem all by myself until putting the bolts in from behind the shroud. Arms just wouldn't fit, required shorter arms and smaller fingers I guess. Asked my wife for help, and she popped them in faster that I could believe.

I was fixing the VW Bug for a girl I was infatuated with. While I was sweating under her car, she was driving my Camaro and sleeping with my best friend. So, sort of the same thing.

 

[ensure]

Having got the engine back in the frame and everything connected I thought I would do a leakdown test and compression test as a last check before firing it up.
Uh-Ooh
Readings are 50 50 67 60.
Something is not right so it I need to pull the head off and check the valves. Should probably have done it earlier but you live in hope.

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How are these for nasty. Its no wonder I wasn't getting much compression

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Exhaust Valves are terrible

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Now this is a job that I can use my handheld drill for. Valve Luffing
A bit of rubber fuel line inside the large diameter fuel line grips the valve stem quite nicely.
Turn the drill on and push and pull with a bit of valve grinding paste and a bit of pressure on the valve (my thumb) and it gives a nice light grind.

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Hopefully this will improve the situation.

 

[Grimly]

I just assumed, that since you'd sent the head off for machining, that you'd stripped it.
At the very least, you can't expect ancient valve stem seals to still be good.

 

[Big T]

Did you check the valve guide clearances?

Don't overdo the valve grinding, contact area should only be be a few mm wide

 

[ensure]

First one done. What a difference
From this

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To this in first pass.

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To this. Gave the cylinder head a bit of clean as well.

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Should be able to get a few more PSI compression now.

 

[ensure]

Finished the remaining Valve Seats

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And re-instated the Valves

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Along with some new Valve stem oil seals (actually ones off my spare engine )

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Now that the engine is back together we will see if it will fire up

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I also made an interesting discovery in the Spares box - 1 set of RS36 Carbs - T36 D3E (from 1987 as the previous owner has engraved his initials and date on the underside of covers)

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I will stick with the standard Carbs for initial testing this weekend

 

[Rob S.]

Pics not working.

 

[ensure]

I can see pictures even when i am not logged in so don't know what you mean.

Anyway I ran another Compression Test and and all 4 cyclinders are 115 - 120 PSI so thats a good improvement. Not ideal but should be enough to fire up.

And it goes. Pretty rough and smokey but considering how many years it has been i am very satisfied.
I have a video but cant upload to IMGBB website so you will have to believe me.
Everything is connected up temporarily

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While i had the engine apart i also discovered that it is now 1199cc so along with the RS36 carbs that would have been 1 exciting beach racer motorcross bike in its previous life.

Now to get it road worthy. First item to repair is the front fender which is held together with duct tape

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A bit of fibreglass on the underside

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And it is now in 1 piece

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[wyly]

I've never tried fibreglass for plastic repair, what prevents the cracks from opening on the surface?

I looked into purchasing a plastic welder but dismissed it as too much money spent on a tool I'd likely never use again.

 

[ensure]

I have used automotive body filler in the cracks on the top side. Works so far but who knows what a few thousand Kays on rough roads will loosen.

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So mostly back together. I have a signal cover in a box somewhere

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I have all the fairings but i am not going to install them at this stage so I have gone for a smaller round headlight.
I am not planning on making this bike pristine. so not much paintwork will get done. Hopefully just a few touch-ups.

There was no Stator installed as the PO had cut down cover on it for Racing and no wiring to Regulator so I have installed that. There is a bit of engine metalwork missing as well, but it helps with the weight loss. The cable just needs to be fixed to something.

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[ensure]

Heres a better shot of the missing engine metalware

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It doesn't seem to effect anything so i will leave it as is.

I have pulled apart the RS36 carbs to clean them and came across an issue. While dismantling No.3 I was trying to poke out the hinge that holds float and it broke off.
On closer inspection I could see that it had been repaired previously so I didn't feel so bad. I ground off excess gunk and applied a new layer of JBWeld and it is back together again.

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Should be OK as there isn't any pressure on it once it is reassembled.

Getting Carbs On & Off is a bit of a pain as the rubbers are not super supple. I have found this to be most convenient method for softening them up.

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[ensure]

I am not really a fan of the full fairing so was trying out the fairing from 750ESD model which I have lying around

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With a bit of computer paint I got this version

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I am also looking at replacing front end with 17" wheeland USD forks as I have a set lying around I bought a couple of years ago for another project which didnt progress.

While I have them off the bike I redid the seals in standard forks anyway

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[dorkburger]

Interesting. The profile of the 750 fairing looks pretty cool on the 1150, but IMO, losing the defining factor of the train light is a loss.

Take this with a grain or grains of salt. I?m an 1150 es super fan. I?ll fully admit that the 1150 es isn?t necessarily beautiful from all angles, but it?s unique and awesome.

 

[ensure]

The Red 1150 EFE will be staying standard and keeping its fairings and headlight but I am going to go a bit custom on this one. Not too much, it will still be instantly recognised as an 1150ES.

 

[ensure]

Can you fellow 1150 owners tell me what engine revs you do at 60mph/100kmph?
I am doing about 4500rpm on standard 15/42 gearing so i suspect primary gear ratios have been adjusted by PO for racing in its previous life.

 

[wyly]

Can you fellow 1150 owners tell me what engine revs you do at 60mph/100kmph?
I am doing about 4500rpm on standard 15/42 gearing so i suspect primary gear ratios have been adjusted by PO for racing in its previous life.

That might be challenge for old brains as many of us have done chain and sprocket conversions long ago.

If no one remembers you could figure it out by going to https://www.gearingcommander.com/ and entering the oem specs.

 

[ensure]

The Purists should probably look away now as the alterations begin in earnest.

I picked up a front end and wheel from a 98 GSXR1100 about 3 years ago and got discs and calipers about 2 years ago. It was going to go on an 1100E but I think will be more suited on this bike, changing a 16" to a 17" wheel wont affect geometry as much as changing a 19" to a 17". We shall see.

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The beauty of having the EFE and the ES is I can see exactly how the setup varies by lining them up side by side.

I could not source a front fender off the matching GSXR model so got one from a TL1000 instead. Fits perfectly.
I also got clip-ons from a TL1000 that have a 35mm uplift.

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I still have the instruments on standard bracket but that is going to have to change.

Here are a few comparison shots so you can see there is minimal difference in final stance and handlebar height

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Dont be fooled by tank colour, I have been swapping bits around

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Its a bit crowded in the garage/workshop at he moment

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