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H4 LED bulbs and other LED lamps

Grimly

Forum Sage
Super Site Supporter
Past Site Supporter
can you get led main beams?

The currently available H4 LED bulbs are total crap - only suitable for positioning / side lights.
What I've done is fit a pair of 27W (9x3W) LED units, each of which puts out at least the lumens of the halogen main beam, but at half the current demand, thus giving the charging system an easier time if used singly, or as a pair aren't taking more than the standard bulb.
These are fine if switched in/out as a substitute pair for the main (halogen) beam on the dark back roads, but I have to use the standard halogen dip beam as the LED units have very poor low beam cut-off; even when slanted down, there's still too much scatter upwards and that's dazzling to other drivers.
There are some aftermarket LED complete headlamp units, but most of the cheapies from China seem to simply switch in/out extra smaller 3W LEDs to accomplish main/dip and on close examination don't look as if there's much (if at all) in the way of headlamp optics to control dip-beam scatter.
The other way would be to track down who makes the latest Harley-Davidson LED headlight unit as that seems to have tackled the job properly, but it's expensive.
 
".....The currently available H4 LED bulbs are total crap - only suitable for positioning / side lights...."

Yeah, I found the lumen claims of these critters suspect (I just installed some "daytime running lights" on mine). But apparently there are good ones available,but still pricey- some members have done this happily and will chime in.
 
maybe give these a look......saw them at the motorcycle show.....

OK.....

www.hdbright.com

here is the actual product

http://www.hdbright.com/hi-power-h4-...014-p-579.html

now I have seen the same item on Ebay, however the 3 prong is not included and is not plug and play, these guys do it for you.....just pull out your old one and pop this one in, plug it in and away you go....

They do have many other ones available as well

If I had not just purchased a new ballast for my HID (I lost the one I had, somewhere in the house) I would have purchased this light, no questions asked.....

and no I am not affiliated with these guys at all

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1650 lumens for 15W; 110lm/W? I don't think so. Then again, over the past couple of years I've got used to the lies told by LED sellers. If it's actually knocking out 80lm/W that would be quite good actually - 1200lm. 60lm/W would be more in line with reliable output - 900lm, which is still liveable with, but not fantastic - more akin to a traditional, old halogen.
However; it's worth keeping an eye on for competitors bringing the price down, so thanks for the link.
 
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As I was watching snow melt , I did some diddling....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Truck-Lite-...005&prg=9373&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=221402661784&rt=nc

claims to have sold lots, so who knows, but I'm still not convinced it's worth it to save 45 watts.
I have two of the Series 6 Truck-Lites here, and will be getting a Series 7 for a third bike shortly.

Are they worth the price? In a word, ... YES.
icon_thumbsup.gif


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As I was watching snow melt , I did some diddling....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Truck-Lite-...005&prg=9373&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=221402661784&rt=nc

claims to have sold lots, so who knows, but I'm still not convinced it's worth it to save 45 watts.

That's the kind of thing I was thinking of - two seperate LEDs within the shell each with their own reflector and optics and no hissing around trying to accomodate the ancient H4 fitting. Pricey, though. It will come down eventually, probably when I'm too old and infirm to enjoy it. :mad:
 
Something I was thinking as this thread started. As I understand it, the entire reason for the original "stator leg disconnect in the light switch" being in the design was to reduce heat buildup in the stator when the light was turned off. Wouldn't adding a lower wattage bulb like this effectively create additional heat in the stator when only used in a single light application? That is, assuming, that you're still using a shunt type R/R instead of the SH-775 series R/R.

Just food for thought while we’re talking about reducing load on the charging system. So far I haven’t seen too many good reviews on the standard replacement H4 LED headlight bulbs. Most complain about light pattern and brightness. Way too much over selling from the MFGs.
 
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As I was watching snow melt , I did some diddling....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Truck-Lite-...005&prg=9373&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=221402661784&rt=nc

claims to have sold lots, so who knows, but I'm still not convinced it's worth it to save 45 watts.

Whooo Hooo at $165 each I'd just get a really good HID setup and buy a pizza and beer!!!!:eek: Seriously, I just can't justify that much for a headlamp. It would have to create a shield of impenetrability around me to warrant the price.:D
 
As I understand it, the entire reason for the original "stator leg disconnect in the light switch" being in the design was to reduce heat buildup in the stator when the light was turned off. Wouldn't adding a lower wattage bulb like this effectively create additional heat in the stator when only used in a single light application? That is, assuming, that you're still using a shunt type R/R instead of the SH-775 series R/R.
You are very correct there, JT. Any "savings" in the load are only dumped back through the stator, if you are still using a shunt-style. Best to switch to a series regulator if you are going to try to "save" some energy.


So far I haven?t seen too many good reviews on the standard replacement H4 LED headlight bulbs. Most complain about light pattern and brightness. Way too much over selling from the MFGs.
If you are upgrading from a standard sealed-beam light, just about any H4 setup will be an improvement. However, not all H4-type lights are the same. After all, "H4" is just the bulb style, not the reflector/housing assembly. I have found that most of the "E-code" lights work better than OEM "motorcycle" lights.



Its only money but how do you fit the thing into the oem bucket?
Have you ever changed out a reflector/lens assembly? Just do it again. The LED replacements have all the same mounting nubs and what-nots that the other lights have, so it's simply a "remove and replace" project. Be aware, though, that the lens sticks out beyond the chrome trimm ring about 1/2 inch or so. Might make it look a bit awkward, but I am much more concerned about how it looks on the road ahead of me.

If you are interested in seeing how these lights work, click HERE. This comparison report is written up for the Harley crowd, so it compares the TruckLite Phase 6, Phase 7 and the Harley "Day Maker" light. Click HERE, you can see a comparison of the Series 7 lights and stock halogens in a Jeep.

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This is the HD Bright setup, $70 plus shipping. Plug 'n' play. Thought I'd give it a go, for grins. They say 15/10 W 1650 lumens.

IMG_0301.jpg


Nicely packaged.

IMG_0303.jpg


The finned area contains a cooling fan.

IMG_0305.JPG


The retaining clip was a bar-steward to set but it worked.

IMG_0306.JPG


Looks plenty bright to me - have to wait 'til dark.......
 
Sweet.....

hope to see some night shots or at least a review on what you think.......

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Yeah, it looks bright enough, but what really counts is what the pattern looks like on the road. :-\\\

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Sweet.....

hope to see some night shots or at least a review on what you think.......

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Yeah, it looks bright enough, but what really counts is what the pattern looks like on the road. :-\\\

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I'm tied up for a couple of evenings here, but will post some photos for critique ASAP.

Of note....I ordered the part online but got a call from Jean Marc at HD Bright inquiring about the recipient machine. He wasn't going to send it out without knowing it would fit. Good attitude and customer service as far as I'm concerned.
 
If this works out OK, I might pick one up for the GS, since I already installed the HID into the FZ...

Waiting for your feedback....

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