HELP! 1980 GS850G Starts, but stumbles-Pops-won't rev??

[Guest]

OK, so are you guys telling me that this thing can't be made to run WELL with K&N Pods, or that it's going to be some needle/jetting work? I can go either way. I have the stock air box with all the parts, and I now have the K&Ns here as well. I can clean up the stock box, put on the new rubber parts that I have with it, and put it on. I'd really prefer the look of the pods, however. Is it really that much trouble to get them to work?

If you run pods and pipe you'll have to rejet if you want the bike to run correct. That's assuming all else is right, IE, o'rings, intakes ect..
Run the stock air box and you wont have to rejet.
My 850 wouldn't even idle right with pods till I installed a DJ kit.

You can restrict the airflow with the pods by partially wrapping em in tape(blue masking) for a temporary fix.

 

[Darin Jordan]

Alright... I'm feeling beaten into submission here... my vision down in flames... I'll clean up and reinstall the stock airbox for now and see if I can get it running right from there. Reading through my super welcome, it seems even THAT is a finicky proposition. Didn't realize these things were so touchy and sensitive to minor changes.

I've rebuilt the fuel petcock (hopefully THAT is OK... some appear to insist on new ones...), and will make sure the rest of the intake system is correct, install the stock airbox system, and see if/how it runs from there.

 

[Ranger]

Just get it running, ride it and then eventually throw the pods on. I'll be in Puyallup within the next 3 weeks atleast thats the plan to pick my girlfriends stuff up so she can move down here with me and if you still aren't running right I'll swing by and check.

 

[Darin Jordan]

Just get it running, ride it and then eventually throw the pods on. I'll be in Puyallup within the next 3 weeks atleast thats the plan to pick my girlfriends stuff up so she can move down here with me and if you still aren't running right I'll swing by and check.

Will do. Thanks.

Quick question... I've been reading up on the DK Dynojet 3 kits... the jets they recommend for a header and pods are DJ165s... cross referencing them, that seems to be HUGE. This jetting kit comes highly recommended here. Can I get this kit and follow the directions (after taking care of everything else you've recommended... ) and have a decent starting point? I'm not adverse to picking up this kit. I want this bike done right.

Also looking at getting my own carb sync tools from Morgan, and the special adjusting wrench, etc... Again, I want to do this right.

 

[Ranger]

Will do. Thanks.

Quick question... I've been reading up on the DK Dynojet 3 kits... the jets they recommend for a header and pods are DJ165s... cross referencing them, that seems to be HUGE. This jetting kit comes highly recommended here. Can I get this kit and follow the directions (after taking care of everything else you've recommended... ) and have a decent starting point? I'm not adverse to picking up this kit. I want this bike done right.

Also looking at getting my own carb sync tools from Morgan, and the special adjusting wrench, etc... Again, I want to do this right.

They aren't mikuni parts so the #'s on the main are different. Not sure what you came up with for the cross ref. but they shouldnt be bigger than 133. As far as ease of use, yeah if you pay attention when you're drilling for the needle plus it comes with all the stages in it so you can mess around. You should have a good starting point but personally I havent jet my bike and I run pods but thats just me. I did run 135's for a while and my stocks are 122.5 so dont do that unless you love burning fuel and going slow. I raised my needles though and still run lean with my stocks. Morgan carb tune is out of my league, never used it so I couldn't help you there.

 

[Guest]

Follow the instructions to a "T". Yeah DJ numbers are different than MIkuni.
I have a 160DJ main in the cv's on my 850.
Like I said, take your time, follow the instructions very closely and your bike will be dang near spot on if everything else is in order.

 

[Darin Jordan]

Got the carbs back apart and seperated. A little nerve-wracking, but once I did it, it's actually pretty simple.

O-rings are perfect. Supple, sealing, passenges look brand new, no clogging or gumming or apparent areas of leakage.

I'll go ahead and replace all of them anyhow, but I don't think this area of the carbs was the issue. I still go back to the intake boots, causing the initial problem, compounded by then trying to trouble-shoot it with the airbox removed.

New parts should be here next week. I think I'm going to go ahead and order the DK Jetting kit and stick with my original plan of running the pods, at least for now. It sounds like the jetting kit will help a lot, especially with everything else working correctly on the intake side.

I love to "do it yourself", as I have the mechanical skills and general knowledge to accomplish most tasks I set out to accomplish, but honestly, it wouldn't really be possible, or at least it would be WAY more expensive, without the help and information and guidance from sites like this, with users like you guys. Thank you so much for your patience and taking the time to post. It's very much appreciated.

Think I'll go tackle installing the new Progressive Fork springs and new seals I just received while I wait for the carb parts.... Just need to find a source for that 19mm nut required to make the special tool...

 

[850 Combat]

Just need to find a source for that 19mm nut required to make the special tool...

I believe that a 12mm bolt has a 19mm head normally, so a 12mm nut.

 

[Darin Jordan]

I believe that a 12mm bolt has a 19mm head normally, so a 12mm nut.

Thanks... I'll check tomorrow... Have the forks off and draining... had almost NO oil in them... I guess after 30-years, that can be expected...

DK jet kit is on the way. Taking the time and getting the parts to do things right sure feels good. Hopefully I'm on the right track.

 

[Ranger]

Thanks... I'll check tomorrow... Have the forks off and draining... had almost NO oil in them... I guess after 30-years, that can be expected...

DK jet kit is on the way. Taking the time and getting the parts to do things right sure feels good. Hopefully I'm on the right track.

Make sure that oil pan bolt is on their tight and wont vibrate out and you'll be on better track than me.

 

[Steve]

O-rings are perfect. Supple, sealing, passenges look brand new, no clogging or gumming or apparent areas of leakage.

You can't see the areas where the blockages happen. If you get it all together and it still doesn't run right, then post it here, we're only going to say "we told you so". Since you already have them completely apart, why not start with a KNOWN GOOD baseline and clean them right?

Just need to find a source for that 19mm nut required to make the special tool...

Unless you have a source for metric hardware, just go to your local Lowe's or Home Depot or ACE Hardware, get some 1/2" all-thread that is 2 feet long, and four nuts to fit it. The 1/2" nuts measure 3/4", which is real close to the 19mm that you need.

.

 

[Guest]

Think I'll go tackle installing the new Progressive Fork springs and new seals I just received while I wait for the carb parts.... Just need to find a source for that 19mm nut required to make the special tool...

I used a broom handle. Simply tap(softly) the end of it into the fastener inside the forks.
Worked for me.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Just to let you know, you don't need to take the forks apart just to install Progressive springs.

Install Progressive Fork Springs

For my recent fork seal replacement, I didn't take apart the forks because my dapener bolts were really stuck. I just used air pressure to blow out the seals, then replaced them.

Fork Seal Replacement

Of course, if you've never done it before, it's never a bad idea to completely disassemble the forks to inspect everything. I'll do that the next time I have to replace seals, providing I can get the bolts unstuck.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Darin Jordan]

Stopped on the way home from work and picked up a $3.99 piece of 1/2x13-2ft All thread, and four 1/2"x13 nuts... Put it together, and have the forks apart without any issue. Great tip for a total cost of $5.50!

Time to pull the fork seals and get everything cleaned up. Have the BassCliff notes already printed out and available. Sure makes tackling these projects so much easier!

This will keep me busy tonight and tomorrow until the carb and intake parts get here.

Any suggestions on fork oil weight? I've read 15wt for "average sized riders"... Not sure what that means. I'm 6'3" and weigh 215-220, depending on what I'm wearing. Likely to get "aggressive" from time to time.

 

[Ranger]

Hi,

Just to let you know, you don't need to take the forks apart just to install Progressive springs.

Install Progressive Fork Springs

For my recent fork seal replacement, I didn't take apart the forks because my dapener bolts were really stuck. I just used air pressure to blow out the seals, then replaced them.

Fork Seal Replacement

Of course, if you've never done it before, it's never a bad idea to completely disassemble the forks to inspect everything. I'll do that the next time I have to replace seals, providing I can get the bolts unstuck.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

How longs it take, never pulled apart motorcycle forks just DH MTB forks which are similar. I think my biggest thing will be making sure I have the proper amount of oil and pull them apart... and yes, I've read the write up a few times :-s I think my cluster and headlight are support by my fork...

 

[Darin Jordan]

It doesn't take long... I had my front end apart in less than 30-minutes. After some cleanup, I have one fork ready for Oils and the spring, and the other all cleaned up and ready for assembly. Total time maybe 2-hours at this point, and that includes the cleaning.

Have to run my son to his Basketball end-of-season party, otherwise, I'd have these both ready for oil tonight... will be picking up new oil tomorrow... still trying to decide what weight. Will default to 15W unless someone chimes in otherwise.

 

[kpotter16]

sounds like the float hight may be off.. check them if you havent already. i had a similar problem not to long ago.

 

[Darin Jordan]

I will be double checking the float heights while I'm installing the DK Stage 3 Jet kit...

I thought I saw a conversion chart somewhere on this site that showed the Mikuni to Dennis Kirk Jet size comparisons? I can't seem to find it again. Anyone here have the link, or do you happen to know what the DK160 and DK165 jets compare to in Mikuni part numbers/sizes??

 

[Ranger]

I will be double checking the float heights while I'm installing the DK Stage 3 Jet kit...

I thought I saw a conversion chart somewhere on this site that showed the Mikuni to Dennis Kirk Jet size comparisons? I can't seem to find it again. Anyone here have the link, or do you happen to know what the DK160 and DK165 jets compare to in Mikuni part numbers/sizes??

Call them and ask, best bet for accuracy and speed considering some sources vary.

 

[Darin Jordan]

Call them and ask, best bet for accuracy and speed considering some sources vary.

Hahahaha... probably would be best! Why didn't I think of that??