Help Tuning A Stock '83 GS1100GL

[carusoat]

New parts came on Saturday and put them all in. I couldn't get the piano wire clip back on, but after some digging around here it seems some people leave it off. The new springs measured around 1.06 which is a pretty big difference from the old ones at 1.53. Definitely had an improvement. It's so much faster than I thought. Still have some work to do, syncing and adjusting the carbs a little and it still feels like it slips a little, i might rough up the steels with some sandpaper. I'm glad it's driveable now though. Haven't looked at the valves, might take a look when I sync the carbs.

 

[Guest]

You really should check the valve clearances before the carb sync cause it might mess it up, and then you'd have to redo it. Anyone here (myself included) would trade you valve shims. Leave the steels alone and buy some new oem fibres. What kind of oil did the P.O. have in it. Synthetic oil could make a clutch slip...

 

[carusoat]

Alright I'll check the valves first. The fibers in there looked brand new. I think the oil thing is a debate. I've had people recommend either way. That being said it does have 10w-40 mobil high mileage in there. I've always used that on my bikes and never had an issue.

 

[JTGS850GL]

It's not synthetic v/s conventional oil that's the concern. It's automotive v/s motorcycle rated oils. Many of the higher quality automotive oils contain additives that are designed to help reduce friction. Those same additives will cause slippage on a wet clutch. Motor cycle and diesel engine motor oils don't have these and do have the good additives that our bikes were designed for.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

Check your clutch cable for free movement and proper free play.. If steel plates,Fibers, and springs are all within specs, Ck. in the 1150 Service manual about shimming the clutch you hay have a problem with the shimming, Usually the bike will creep while the clutch is in but the later can happen also. If not fully releasing. Inspect the inner and clutch outer basket for any grooving.

 

[gustovh]

Clutch adjustment issue if it slips a little. Easy to check the valves, I used the ziptie method for the first time and it worked really well to keep the valve open. Make sure that the shim is well seated after replacing if needed. .0015 to .004 I believe is the clearance.

V

 

[carusoat]

I finally got back in the garage. Measured my valves. My feeler gauge only goes down to .04 MM, but the range from the service manual is .03 MM - .08 MM. I couldn't get the .04 MM in any of them, so I guess I can assume they are all .04 MM. Except the #2 exhaust cylinder accepted the .04 MM and rejected the .05MM, so I'll assume it's .05MM. I know these are on the low end of the tolerance, but is that alright? I'd rather not have to deal with the shims if I didn't have to.

thanks

 

[eil]

I couldn't get the .04 MM in any of them, so I guess I can assume they are all .04 MM.

Nope! That means they are all less than 0.04 mm, which could mean anything between 0.00 mm and 0.03 mm. Chances are the valves have not been checked in decades, if ever. It's highly unlikely that all eight are exactly 0.03, so you're almost certainly looking at getting some new shims. Unless you want to buy a new engine in the near term.

If you want a more precise feeler gauge (recommended), head over to eBay and look for the ones that have 0.03 - 0.10 feelers in 0.01 mm increments.

Then see Steve's signature (in this thread) and ask him for the shim spreadsheet and measure what you have.

Swap around the ones you can and then search the forum for the post about the GS Shim Club or get your new shims from an OEM parts vendor like Parts Outlaw.

 

[carusoat]

Thanks Charles. I PM'd Ray about the shim club and emailed Steve about the spreadsheet. My feeler gauge goes in increments of .01MM, just only goes down to .04MM. Would you recommend getting some special tools to get the shims out? They seem like they might be a little rough to get out and the pdf on Bike Cliff's website looks like he used some special tools.

 

[eil]

There is tool you can buy to depress the shim buckets so you can get the shims out with hemostats or small needlenose pliers. Looks like this: http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...alve+Shim+Changing+Tool+Suzuki&item=TU15-0430

There is also something called the "zip tie method", search the forum for it. Involves opening the valve and jamming a zip tie in it to keep it open while you rotate the cam away from the shim.

Each method has its own fan club. I have had no issues using the shim tool. No experience with the zip tie method, it probably works fine too.

 

[Steve]

I'd rather not have to deal with the shims if I didn't have to.

If you'd rather not deal with shims, you may as well plan on selling the bike NOW.

Adjusting valve clearances is part of normal maintenance, recommended by the factory every 3000 miles or so.

Would you recommend getting some special tools to get the shims out? They seem like they might be a little rough to get out and the pdf on Bike Cliff's website looks like he used some special tools.

The only "special" tools are a small, straight-blade screwdriver and some tweezers or hemostats. Don't tell anybody, but I use a magnet. Too many people here are rather paranoid that the shim will be magnetized, but they don't realize that the constant stroking of the cam on the shim also magnetizes it. However, because the shim rotates, the magnetism is cancelled when the shim is stroked in a different direction.

.

 

[carusoat]

Haha I'm not afraid of the shims, Steve! I sold my 650 earlier this week so I currently don't have a running bike is all. The faster I can get it together the better, but I want to know everything is in good shape. I won't be able to work on it this weekend but I'll try moving the shims around next week and see how many shims I'll need to get.

Interesting that you would use the magnet method. I've read about it. I'll try without first, then when I get annoyed I'll think about it.

Thanks for all the help, I've learned so much!

 

[Steve]

Did you get a chance to look over your spreadsheet?

.

 

[carusoat]

I looked it over a bit, yes. Pretty cool, thanks

 

[gs11ezrydr]

I just normally replace the springs, especially if out of specs, Or whenever I install new fiber plates, just think how many times they have been depressed, the age, and the heat fatigues metal also. Cheap and a wise choice to replace while in there. Like everyone else has recommended.

 

[carusoat]

Well I finally replaced my valve shims. I had to buy 4 of them. Everything was way too tight and now they are all within spec. The problem now is that the bike won't start. It started before I did the valve shims, but I don't see how that affects it. Any ideas? I can verify that it is getting spark, and I had gone through the carbs earlier this summer.

 

[Guest]

Sounds like you are getting there! Did you fill the carb bowls by putting the petcock on prime for a while? Check the order of your plug wires? Check vaccuum hoses, etc, etc. It's probably something easy, you just have to find it.

 

[alke46]

I just read this entire thread and I may have missed it, but did you get rid of the inline fuel filter? Most people believe that is the proper thing to do, especially if your tank is either clean or has a good liner in it.

As to your non starting issues, just remember the old acronym KISS. Most of the time it is something really simple, just overlooked.

Good luck.

Larry

 

[carusoat]

Thanks guys,

To answer your questions...yes I primed the bowls. I also checked that the bowls were getting fuel, which they were. I also removed the inline filter, i figured it was restricting flow. I believe I have my plug wires are correct. I wasn't sure so I looked at a parts fiche and hooked the wires to the corresponding sides. I wouldn't be surprised if that's the problem though. It's easy to figure out which plugs are the inner and outer ones, but each has one that is labelled 1-3, and 2-4. Currently theres a 1-3 and a 2-4 on each side.

Other than that I may just take everything a part and put it back together, maybe (hopefully) I'll find something that's wrong while taking it apart. But for the most part you guys don't think the shims have anything to do with it? I know if they are too tight they cause starting problems.

thanks

 

[Guest]

If your carbs were tuned for before, when almost all of your valve shims were probably out of clear ace, it's possible they're not set properly for the new clearances? Did you get it running again? I'm at a similar stage with my gs1100glz but waiting for the new valve cover gasket to show up this week.