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Hey guys, just picked up an 82 GS650L, have some questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter AudiA4_20T
  • Start date Start date
if you took the tank off and it was "dumping fuel" then you DO have a problem with the petcock as it is supposed to shut of fuel in the absence of engine vacuum.
 
:eek: How did you get a pic of MY bike? :D I have the EXACT same bike as the pic you posted.

AINT IT PURDY!!! :p

The "clean up" just takes time and it helps to start out with a "hanger queen" that has not been molested. The fewer miles the better.

Back in the 80's I was riding a Honduh..duh..duh CB 650 and raced a friend of a friend on a GS 650 and got SMOKED! From that day on, I vowed to own one and got lucky about 4 years ago when I stumbled on mine sitting in the garrage of a client of mine. We struck a deal and I brought home an all original unmolested (sans a pi$$ poor carb attempt) stored inside--6,000 mile sweet heart that I WILL NOT PART WITH! :D

Nice! Mine has 16k on it but for $500 cash with a new battery and exhaust it was a pretty damn good deal
 
if you took the tank off and it was "dumping fuel" then you DO have a problem with the petcock as it is supposed to shut of fuel in the absence of engine vacuum.

seriously? Could my carbs be fine then? Like I said fuel was dripping out of the pod filters when the car was off
 
Since you have the carbs off, dip it anyways!

Before ordering the carb kits, you should have opened up the carbs to see what you needed. Not to mention you ordered the o ring kit, so you'll have extra o-rings left over. You might end up just using one or two parts from the four kits you bought.

perhaps the most important part in the kit is the mix screw. It's really fragile, and I can only ever find it in the kits. When you dip your carbs, don't forget to take the caps off the mix screws and replace the orings there after the dip.

Make sure you don't dip any rubber or plastic parts, like the diaphragm or the choke retainers. You might already know this, but better safe than sorry, I wouldn't want you buying 4 diaphragms, which cost more than the bike.

I have an 81' love it to death! A word of caution, most likely your 82 will have the gold hubspline, and will need a replacement soon.
 
Since you have the carbs off, dip it anyways!

Before ordering the carb kits, you should have opened up the carbs to see what you needed. Not to mention you ordered the o ring kit, so you'll have extra o-rings left over. You might end up just using one or two parts from the four kits you bought.

perhaps the most important part in the kit is the mix screw. It's really fragile, and I can only ever find it in the kits. When you dip your carbs, don't forget to take the caps off the mix screws and replace the orings there after the dip.

Make sure you don't dip any rubber or plastic parts, like the diaphragm or the choke retainers. You might already know this, but better safe than sorry, I wouldn't want you buying 4 diaphragms, which cost more than the bike.

I have an 81' love it to death! A word of caution, most likely your 82 will have the gold hubspline, and will need a replacement soon.

Honestly, I don't already know this your speaking a different language to me. I figured I'd order the kits anyway, so I can take these suckers apart and figure out how they work.

1. Even if I opened the carbs I would have no idea what would be needed lol
2. What am I "dipping" the carbs in? And how much of the carb am I doing this with?
3. Im following the DIY currently. Im taking apart the carbs each in their own little aluminum pans so I'm taking my time with everything. I think I should be fine
 
Honestly, I don't already know this your speaking a different language to me. I figured I'd order the kits anyway, so I can take these suckers apart and figure out how they work.

1. Even if I opened the carbs I would have no idea what would be needed lol
2. What am I "dipping" the carbs in? And how much of the carb am I doing this with?
3. Im following the DIY currently. Im taking apart the carbs each in their own little aluminum pans so I'm taking my time with everything. I think I should be fine

Well, you only really need the kits if you are missing something.

What you might use from the kits is the needle seats and float needle. The float needle is the little pointy thing that goes into the hole right where the float posts are. The needle seat is the tunnel where the needle goes to.

If the top of the needle is grooved, then replace it.

You can find a carburetor cleaner in a gallon can with a basket most of the time. It eats up rubber, not to mention skin if you aren't careful. You can also get it from you local Yamaha dealer as well.

My '81 is my first bike, and I learned LOADS in a week about the carbs. Just take your time, and eventually you'll have that magic moment where everything makes sense.
 
Ok continuing in my saga of taking these things apart,

The pilot jet is stripped, and the air screw as well.

Also, I had to use bolt removers to pull out a few bolts, so I need to replace them as well
 
Ok can I leave the air screws in 2 of them? Im kind of confused of what it does and honestly they are stripped in there. I tried to drill it out but I think it did more harm than good. Would it be good to get 2 more carbs?
 
The air screw as you call it is the commonly called a mixture screw. It adjusts the amount of fuel into the pilot circuit. In order to properly clean the carbs, all the jets and mixture screw should be removed. The best way to remove the stuck screws is with PB blaster, heat and a good fitting screwdriver. If you can't get them out and you damaged the carb body trying to remove them, then its time to start looking for a spare rack of carbs. You could try drilling out the stuck jet or screw with a left hand drill bit but it is probably easier to just replace the carb body,
 
Alrite, started getting back into it here... It's been awhile! I'll have pics of the paint work I'm doing to the gas tank and side covers. I went with gloss black because its easy and cheap.

Started putting the carbs on today but didn't finish. I got the choke bracket and throttle hooked up though. A few more questions

1. The vents in between carbs 1&2 and 3&4, nothing attaches to them right?

2. What are the tiny o-rings for? (they're a clear tan color and I can't imagine what they fit over.
 
The vents should have tubes attached to them that reach back over the airbox and attach to nothing.
There are some that say if you have pods and a pipe on the bike, you should remove the tubes and just leave the nipples open, but the logic on that still escapes me.


Where did you get the "tiny o-rings"? Did they come in a kit with something else?
There are some very small o-rings that go on the mixture screws.


When dipping the carbs, those mixture screws need to be removed. If the slot has been buggered up and you can't turn the screw, use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut a slot down the length of the tower that holds the screw and cut a fresh slot in the top of the screw. Done carefully, this works quite well.

.
 
The vents should have tubes attached to them that reach back over the airbox and attach to nothing.
There are some that say if you have pods and a pipe on the bike, you should remove the tubes and just leave the nipples open, but the logic on that still escapes me.


Where did you get the "tiny o-rings"? Did they come in a kit with something else?
There are some very small o-rings that go on the mixture screws.


When dipping the carbs, those mixture screws need to be removed. If the slot has been buggered up and you can't turn the screw, use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut a slot down the length of the tower that holds the screw and cut a fresh slot in the top of the screw. Done carefully, this works quite well.

.

Hey Steve thanks for the help! I got a Cycleorings kit and a Z1 kit, and I got the carbs rebuilt by a guy named Bill on here, fantastic guy to deal with. I vaguely remember him saying something about having extras, so I figured these were them.

Anyway, if the vents have hoses that go to nothing, why is it a big deal to leave them open? I'm not questioning authority, just curious.
 
Hey Steve thanks for the help! I got a Cycleorings kit and a Z1 kit, and I got the carbs rebuilt by a guy named Bill on here, fantastic guy to deal with. I vaguely remember him saying something about having extras, so I figured these were them.

Anyway, if the vents have hoses that go to nothing, why is it a big deal to leave them open? I'm not questioning authority, just curious.

I vaguely remember something about the vent hoses keeping the air flow around the carbs and airbox relatively smooth (laminar). Seeing as i'm not well versed in fluid mechanics, I really can't say one way or another.

I hope to have my bike up in the coming weeks. we should do a MD meet! College Park is only about an hour from where I live.
 
I vaguely remember something about the vent hoses keeping the air flow around the carbs and airbox relatively smooth (laminar). Seeing as i'm not well versed in fluid mechanics, I really can't say one way or another.

I hope to have my bike up in the coming weeks. we should do a MD meet! College Park is only about an hour from where I live.

Absolutely man. Are you good with this stuff? Bikes are so simple but so confusing to me haha. I wouldn't mind paying you a few bucks to come up if I get stuck here...
 
Anyway, if the vents have hoses that go to nothing, why is it a big deal to leave them open? I'm not questioning authority, just curious.

Those vents are the atmospheric reference for your carbs. It is in part the Venturi effect which creates a sub-atmospheric pressure in the carbs, so atmospheric pressure can push fuel into the air stream. The idea with the tubes is to keep them in a nice, quiet, breeze-free place where your pressure remains constant (and approximately atmospheric).

I realized I had mine in a bad place when I was passing a tractor-trailer and started to lose power in the cross-wind :eek:
 
Yep, I got that part down just fine. Now, tell me why it is so important to remove those hoses when you use pods and a pipe. :-k

Since they are just a vent, I don't understand why a piece of hose that is several inches long would affect their operation. You certainly don't have any air flow to worry about; air would only flow if the level in the float bowl changes. I just can't see the fuel level changing often enough or fast enough for a vent hose to cause a restriction. :o

Maybe it's true, there are those that claim it has helped their bikes. I have not had a bike with pods and a pipe, so I can't say for sure, it just doesn't make sense to me.

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