I am planning on converting my stock exhaust bolts on my 750s to exhaust studs permanently installed in to the heads. I am wondering what ..or if ..there is a thread locker which will satnd up to the temperature at the heads.
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High temp thread lockers??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
J
jwhelan65
Guest
Anything recommended for the petcock screws that penetrate the tank?
Dry is fine since gas will get into the threads anyway. Just make sure to use those proper sealing washers.
Nessism...The whole idea i am thinking is to never have to take them out.. If i change the exhaust bolts from the screw in bolts to permanent studs then all i should evere have to remove is the lock washer and a nut. The thing is i dont wanna inadvertently be screwing out a stud as i am trying to remove the nuts.. thats why i was wondering about a high temp threadlocker to lock the studs into the heads.
Who cares if the stud threads out? It won't a thing.
I just simply wanna know if theres a threadlocker that will withstand the temps or not..Its not a philosophical debate here. I wanna lock them in if i can and thats that! Just a yes or no will do.
Solution: No don't apply thread locker. Do apply anti sieze to the stud threads to ensure the lock washer and nut only come loose.
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forget it guys...obviously you dont understand the question or what i wanna accomplishn here.... sorry to have bothered anyone
LET ME EXPLAIN AGAIN> I want to change the screw in/screw out exhaust bolt to permanent studs so these mother&&^&^&&ers stop snapping off in the heads. I am frustrated and just wanted to know if a HIGH TEMP thread locker exists . all i could find at the auto parts store was the red colr. I NEVER EVER EVER EVER wanna remove them from the bolck..EVER EVER EVER....
Product data sheet info is available on the web. Threebond RED is for studs and is good for 150C temps... http://www.threebond.com/aftermarket.htm You can look up similar info for Loctite brand I suspect.
It's a bad idea to glue those things in. What happens if you strip the threads on one? What happens if you want to remove the engine (studs hit the frame)? Nothing good comes from threadlocking these thing in.
It's a bad idea to glue those things in. What happens if you strip the threads on one? What happens if you want to remove the engine (studs hit the frame)? Nothing good comes from threadlocking these thing in.
Loctite red if you're sure you want to go down this way. Don't go any more than this - the green for example will set like glass and then you really are boogered if you strip the threads.
Steve
GS Whisperer
OK, guys, let's not confuse him with reality, let's just give him what he asked for. 
Click on THIS LINK to see the Loctite fact page. Look in the column on the right that shows how much of the strength is retained at 150 degrees (C). Scroll down about half-way, you will see a few that manage to do that.
Chuck, I understand your frustration at having ONE bad experience with a stud coming out. What these guys are trying to tell you in all their various ways, is that we have ALL had that problem, too. Some of us might have already tried what you are wanting to do and have already found out that it was not the best way to do it. We are all trying to save you from a post in about a year or so that says "How do it remove those ^%&$%^ studs that I chemically welded into place???"
Trust me, we understand your frustration, we're just trying to tell you that your idea of a "fix" is not the best way to do it.
.
Click on THIS LINK to see the Loctite fact page. Look in the column on the right that shows how much of the strength is retained at 150 degrees (C). Scroll down about half-way, you will see a few that manage to do that.
Chuck, I understand your frustration at having ONE bad experience with a stud coming out. What these guys are trying to tell you in all their various ways, is that we have ALL had that problem, too. Some of us might have already tried what you are wanting to do and have already found out that it was not the best way to do it. We are all trying to save you from a post in about a year or so that says "How do it remove those ^%&$%^ studs that I chemically welded into place???"
Trust me, we understand your frustration, we're just trying to tell you that your idea of a "fix" is not the best way to do it.
.
OK, guys, let's not confuse him with reality, let's just give him what he asked for.
Click on THIS LINK to see the Loctite fact page. Look in the column on the right that shows how much of the strength is retained at 150 degrees (C). Scroll down about half-way, you will see a few that manage to do that.
Chuck, I understand your frustration at having ONE bad experience with a stud coming out. What these guys are trying to tell you in all their various ways, is that we have ALL had that problem, too. Some of us might have already tried what you are wanting to do and have already found out that it was not the best way to do it. We are all trying to save you from a post in about a year or so that says "How do it remove those ^%&$%^ studs that I chemically welded into place???"
Trust me, we understand your frustration, we're just trying to tell you that your idea of a "fix" is not the best way to do it.
.
I think the saying is "Never say Never" :-\\\
I am sure i will never ever remove the studs once in..I can slip the flanges over the ends of the studs easily enough. I dont see why they just didnt make them stud style from the getgo. I would rather use a nut splitter if the nut gets rusted on instead of doing the drill and tapping if another one breaks off in there..I have had to do this 3 times already and i just wanna eleviate the worry of yet another one someday. I have used nut splitters on frozen nuts and it sure does work with much less of an " OH SHEIT" Feeling when one snaps. I am gonna use the strongest lock threader i can find and thats how its gonna go down. Sorry for being snippy earlier but i was just frustrated and PEED OFF big time.
gs1197
Forum Apprentice
Mr Hahn,
Studs can snap off just like bolts.
And after you've super duty loctited them in place....you're right back where you started.
Installing studs is a good idea....bonding them in place is not.
Hi-temp anti sieze is your friend.
And as a side note:
If installed correctly, the studs will bottom out in the head. Which will lock them in place.
Consider all the heat cycles, water, dirt...etc. the front of the engine is exposed to.
Eventually the studs will become fatigued and/or brittle and it will be necessary to replace them.
Studs can snap off just like bolts.
And after you've super duty loctited them in place....you're right back where you started.
Installing studs is a good idea....bonding them in place is not.
Hi-temp anti sieze is your friend.
And as a side note:
If installed correctly, the studs will bottom out in the head. Which will lock them in place.
Consider all the heat cycles, water, dirt...etc. the front of the engine is exposed to.
Eventually the studs will become fatigued and/or brittle and it will be necessary to replace them.
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C
cockneyrick
Guest
Use Stainless studs (A4 std) with some copper grease on, then use Stainless washers & nuts that will not seize onto the studs as they're made of the same metal & will not corrode to eachother. Copper grease will stop the studs corroding in the the Ally cylinders too.
J
jwhelan65
Guest
Just curious, why replace with permanent studs and not a new set of hex bolts?
Jwhelan..My thinking is this:
ermanenet studs would never have to be removed to get the exhaust off for whatever reason it needs to be taken off. Just take off the nut and remove the exhaust. This will permanently eliminate the possibility of a BOLT breaking off in the head and having to go through all the grief of trying to remove it and being sucessful.
Secondly, if a nut gets stuck on a stud all you gotta do is use a nut splitter and its off in seconds with no dammage to the studs. Just crack the nut, remove, and replace iwth another nut. I think i would rather spend a buck on a few nuts than go through all the BS from a broken bolt in the heads
And to who ever asked about why not just use new bolts... They were new bolts this spring. I hit them with PB blaster so i could get them out and they were really tight and squeaked all the way. The reason i was removing the exhaust was so i could get to the front of the motor to bead blast the engine down. I got it all done and it looks really sharp.
ermanenet studs would never have to be removed to get the exhaust off for whatever reason it needs to be taken off. Just take off the nut and remove the exhaust. This will permanently eliminate the possibility of a BOLT breaking off in the head and having to go through all the grief of trying to remove it and being sucessful. Secondly, if a nut gets stuck on a stud all you gotta do is use a nut splitter and its off in seconds with no dammage to the studs. Just crack the nut, remove, and replace iwth another nut. I think i would rather spend a buck on a few nuts than go through all the BS from a broken bolt in the heads
And to who ever asked about why not just use new bolts... They were new bolts this spring. I hit them with PB blaster so i could get them out and they were really tight and squeaked all the way. The reason i was removing the exhaust was so i could get to the front of the motor to bead blast the engine down. I got it all done and it looks really sharp.
I recently snapped off a stud on the pinch bolts for the front axle of my '86 Cavalcade. I have no idea why it would snap before the nut over lock-washer loosened. I had enough of the stud left and exposed that I was able to back it out with vice-grips after applying some PB Blaster and waiting a bit. I'm glad it wasn't thread-locked in because my understanding was I was going to have to maybe heat things to get it out. I would concur that it is best to avoid trying to make studs a permanent installation. If they back out while trying to loosen the nut, that is an inconvenience. If they snap, that is possibly a major inconvenience.
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