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hooking up dyna coils

  • Thread starter Thread starter atherts01
  • Start date Start date
A

atherts01

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I am having trouble getting my suzuki GS1000 started and I want to make sure I have my dyna coils hooked up right. Would someone please tell me the correct way order the plug wires should be hooked to the coils. I currently have the first coil hooked to cylinders 1 and 4 and the other coil I have hooked to cylinders 2 and 3. Is there and order on the coils?:confused:
 
No order on the Dyna coils, your description of one coil for cylinder 1&4 and the other coil for 2&3 is correct. The Dyna coils are Green and also s/b 3 Ohm. Perhaps you switched the wiring harness leads to the Dyna Coils when you removed the stock suzuki coils?
 
That is the correct order for the plug wires. When connecting the wires from the harness did you connect them to the correct coil? Look at the wiring diagram for your bike and see what color wire should go to each coil. Coils are pretty simple to hook up.

Did the bike run before you hooked up the dyna coils?
 
I started with just a motor and built a frame around it. I didn't have anything to go off. I just used the black wire and white wire off the stator. Black I have going to 2&3 and white goes to 1&4 I used red coated wire to replace the orange wire that is on the stock coils. I get juice to the the points when my kill switch is hooked up. What would be the best way to clean up the old points system?
 
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Dude..I can't tell you where to begin.

Do you have a service manual and a wiring diagram for your bike?

Was there a wiring harness with the bike or are you making one?
 
I have service manual coming in the mail this week and I am making the wiring harness.
 
Get a Dyna S and lose those points.
When you say stator do you mean you have the coils hooked up through your charging system?

There is a hot wire that goes into your points and two that go to the coils. Use the hot wire to power the coils and figure out which wire comes off the points that controls the 1&4 or 2&3 crank trigger coil.
 
There is a hot wire that goes into your points and two that go to the coils. Use the hot wire to power the coils and figure out which wire comes off the points that controls the 1&4 or 2&3 crank trigger coil.

I was looking at the wiring diagram and the two wires that come off the contact breaker feed the coils, should be white and black. The orange/white wire from the kill switch supplies power to the coils. The o/w wire originates at the fuse block and runs to the kill switch.
 
I started with just a motor and built a frame around it. I didn't have anything to go off. I just used the black wire and white wire off the stator. Black I have going to 2&3 and white goes to 1&4 I used red coated wire to replace the orange wire that is on the stock coils. I get juice to the the points when my kill switch is hooked up. What would be the best way to clean up the old points system?

I am going by memory here but one orange / white wire goes to coil 1&4 and coil 2&3. Pull up the schematic to determine if you have the white & black wire going to the proper coil or just merely reverse the white & black wires to the coils and retest. If the points are not set right it won't fire, replace per chef1366 suggestion with Dyna S unit.
 
Get a Dyna S and lose those points.
When you say stator do you mean you have the coils hooked up through your charging system?

There is a hot wire that goes into your points and two that go to the coils. Use the hot wire to power the coils and figure out which wire comes off the points that controls the 1&4 or 2&3 crank trigger coil.

Sorry the black and white wire the come from the points to the coils. I am not running a charging system. I do have a used Dyna S I just wanted to get the motor running before I messed around with the ignition.
 
Points are pretty simple to adjust. You should be able to use a test light to tell if the points are sending a signal to the coils. There should be a procedure to adjust them in the manual. I have a 70's era ford six cylinder that uses points. From what I remember, I replaced the points and condensor, set the initial gap with a feeler gauge and then once it was running used a dwell meter to fine tune it.
 
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone. I got it running this weekend.
 
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