Hydraulic clutch conversion?

[Footy.]

Hi Folks.

I am considering converting the cable operated clutch on my 78 GS750E to Hydraulic.

Has anyone done this before?

I am looking for a master cyl, and a suitable slave cyl to fit where the current mechanical actuator fits behind the small cover. I have machining facilities, and intend to look around the local breakers for the basic parts mentioned.

I just wondered if anyone here had done this conversion before, they may be able to point me towards parts from a particular bike they used?

Thanks.

Footy.

 

[mortation]

I can't help you but if you figure it out post up on it others may be interested

 

[rphillips]

WHY!!!! Why install fluid that may spill or leak,, master cyl & slave cyl with seals that can & will go bad, hoses with fittings that may leak, lose all of the adjustibality (I'm pretty sure the hydraulic has no adjustment) All this to replace a simple cable that should last several years & cost appx. $15. Oh yes, After bleeding the air from the new hydraulic system, You'll probably remember air never affected the good old cable. Now after all that, I hope someone will educate me on the advantages of a hydraulic clutch, the only thing I've found was the clutch lever was slightly easier to pull. Many cars, trucks, & bikes now have them & I'm sure there are great, but honestly, I'm not understanding what they do better or cheaper than a simple cable.

 

[80GS750]

from what i have seen, they are easier to pull, have less maintenance (when installed and used properly) and you dont have to worry about replacing the cable, no breaking on the road.....

 

[rphillips]

You're kidding??? Right???

 

[80GS750]

i guess both ways have their ups and downs...

interesting how the vast mojority of newer bikes have hydaulic clutches though...

 

[SPARKSS]

i guess both ways have their ups and downs...

interesting how the vast mojority of newer bikes have hydaulic clutches though...

Engineers that put systems LIKE hydraulic actuated clutches (and many other "modern" systems), do so.........knowing full well they'll never have to work on 'em.

 

[tkent02]

i guess both ways have their ups and downs...

interesting how the vast mojority of newer bikes have hydaulic clutches though...

On the newer bikes I have tried, the hydraulic clutches are harder to pull than the cable ones, and harder than the one on my 1979 GS 1000 and 750 too.

My guess is hydraulics clutches are cheaper to make.

 

[Killer2600]

On the newer bikes I have tried, the hydraulic clutches are harder to pull than the cable ones, and harder than the one on my 1979 GS 1000 and 750 too.

My guess is hydraulics clutches are cheaper to make.

Hydraulic clutches have less maintenance: no cable lubing or adjusting (they self-adjust), are more reliable (in theory) since there is no cable to break, and have easier clutch pull (thanks to the magic of hydraulics) which allows for the use of heavier springs without the set back of a heavy clutch lever.

The newer bikes you've tried likely had heavier springs and if you thought the clutch was harder (than your GS) I'd hate to see what you'd have to say if you had to work a cable clutch on the exact same bike.

 

[tkent02]

Hydraulic clutches have less maintenance: no cable lubing or adjusting (they self-adjust), are more reliable (in theory) since there is no cable to break, and have easier clutch pull (thanks to the magic of hydraulics) which allows for the use of heavier springs without the set back of a heavy clutch lever.

The newer bikes you've tried likely had heavier springs and if you thought the clutch was harder (than your GS) I'd hate to see what you'd have to say if you had to work a cable clutch on the exact same bike.

What you say makes sense and I sure wouldn't buy a new car with a cable clutch, but on the other hand I sure wouldn't waste any effort redesigning a system that has worked fine for thirty years on these old klunker bikes either.

But go for it, and as always, POST PICS!

 

[Footy.]

WHY!!!! Why install fluid that may spill or leak,, master cyl & slave cyl with seals that can & will go bad, hoses with fittings that may leak, lose all of the adjustibality (I'm pretty sure the hydraulic has no adjustment) All this to replace a simple cable that should last several years & cost appx. $15. Oh yes, After bleeding the air from the new hydraulic system, You'll probably remember air never affected the good old cable. Now after all that, I hope someone will educate me on the advantages of a hydraulic clutch, the only thing I've found was the clutch lever was slightly easier to pull. Many cars, trucks, & bikes now have them & I'm sure there are great, but honestly, I'm not understanding what they do better or cheaper than a simple cable.

Well i fitted a new cable when i rebuilt the bike 7000 miles ago. Clutch operates fine with a nice smooth action. No kinks in the cable run, regularly oiled around the lever section.

Coming back from a long run in the country, the clutch got heavy as i got close to home. When i got home i found three strands of wire left holding the cable together, with the broken wires jamming (hence the symptom of getting stiffer to operate)!

I could have easily been stranded way out in the wilds.

Hydraulic clutches are way more reliable than cables, and would at least give more warning before any complete faliure, even in a neglected system. The other advantage in this case is the long push rod going from one side of the engine to the other. When my engine gets hot and expands a bit, the clutch lever gets "loose". It's harder to get into neutral.

Hydraulic clutch cylinders self adjust same as in your hydraulic braking system, to compensate for this.

I indend doing this conversion later this year, and i will post back on how it goes. Thanks for all the responses.

Footy.

 

[Agemax]

Well i fitted a new cable when i rebuilt the bike 7000 miles ago. Clutch operates fine with a nice smooth action. No kinks in the cable run, regularly oiled around the lever section.

Coming back from a long run in the country, the clutch got heavy as i got close to home. When i got home i found three strands of wire left holding the cable together, with the broken wires jamming (hence the symptom of getting stiffer to operate)!

I could have easily been stranded way out in the wilds.

Hydraulic clutches are way more reliable than cables, and would at least give more warning before any complete faliure, even in a neglected system. The other advantage in this case is the long push rod going from one side of the engine to the other. When my engine gets hot and expands a bit, the clutch lever gets "loose". It's harder to get into neutral.

Hydraulic clutch cylinders self adjust same as in your hydraulic braking system, to compensate for this.

I indend doing this conversion later this year, and i will post back on how it goes. Thanks for all the responses.

Footy.

sounds like a cheap aftermarket cable to me. a genuine suzuki cable would not fail after 7000 miles. if adjusted,maintained and lubed correctly then a cable should give you no problems

 

[flyingace]

I think the reliability issue is moot. I have a lever clutch and hydrualic brakes on my 25 year old bike, and both are stock. I can't pick a winner there.

The decision should be based on lever pull. Once it gets too high, go to hydraulics. Easy to see why most clutches are hydraulic these days, smaller clutches + more power = high srping tension.