Ignitor unit and dynatek question

[DK_Struggles]

Hello!

I am having issues with my 81 GS850G, and I think we have it narrowed down to the ignitor unit. I was riding it and it just died on me and it didn't seem like it was getting spark (which seems like a lot of people have this problem). I thought at first it was my ignition coils, so I have replaced those, and I was able to get it to start again but it was idling really low and then died again and I could not get it to start again and was not giving a spark again.

I tested the signal generators and also the ignitor unit per the manual (both the clymber and the suzuki service one). The signal generators were fine, but the ignitor unit was not producing a spark like the test said it should with the ohmmeter, so that's where we are now. I read some of the other posts and it seems like people largely suggest the dyna S replacement for this type of issue, but from looking at the product images and also the youtube videos it looks like this is really just replacing the signal generator and not the ignitor unit? None of the videos I could find show wiring the dyna S in, so I can't tell if people are bypassing the ignitor unit after the replacement and going straight to the coils? That seems weird based on what I read in the manual, because it seems like you have to have that unit to change the wave... I don't entirely understand that part. If people are not bypassing, it doesn't seem like that dyna S will fix my problem, so advice on how to proceed would be great here! New ignitor units aren't easy to find it seems.

Thanks so much for your help!

 

[zed1015]

The dyna is a stand alone unit and usually replaces points ignition.
It can be used on your G but it does not use the Suzuki ignitor and you will also need to use 3 to 5 ohm coils.

 

[Nessism]

Is your battery properly charged?

 

[chuck hahn]

Dyna does away with the ignitor (CDI BOX). Red goes to any switched hot wire and look atthe left pick up yto see what color that wire is and that goes to the 1/4 coil. obviously the last wire goes to the 2/3 coil. I typically tie the red wire into one of the orange white 12v wires that go to one of the coils. Its been a while since i installed one so i dont recall if the black or white goes to the 1/4 coil. but if you hook it up and it wont start switch them around.
I dont know about special coils as i have always used the stock ones and have never had a problem.

 

[unfocused]

If you're going to run any type of aftermarket electronic ignition run the Suzuki replacement coils that are 4.3 ohm.

Mine are off of the Katana series of motorcycles. I run both the Ebay electronic ignition ($60) and the 4.3 ohm coils ($60)

Also - I don't run the resistor caps. Ignore the "CDI Ignition" part as you will remove your CDI box. This is exactly what I run and have run for over 6 months after blowing out my Dynatek

 

[DK_Struggles]

Thanks for the responses! I'm so glad to have stumbled on this forum, and hope to pay forward once I learn more!

Yup, battery is also new and charged, haha I've made that mistake before....

I already have the new coils installed and they are from Z1 enterprises: Coil - Ignition - 4.0 Ohm - 3 1/2 inch Mounting Points - Dual Output SKU: EM24-72451. They aren't the 4.3, but these should be ok right? I would rather not have to get another set. If those will work it sounds like I should have basically what I need and I will bypass the ignitor unit. I read that this is a transitorized ignition and not a CDI? Will that make a big difference?
​

 

[Nessism]

4 ohm coils are fine with a Dyna S. And yes, the stock ignition uses an ignitor, and it's a transistorized system. It's NOT a CDI system.

 

[DK_Struggles]

Hello again!

So I have gotten the Dyna S off ebay (no instructions included and seems like may be a knock off) and am trying to install it, but I am having issues with the magnetic cuff fitting onto the shaft of the advance assembly. In the videos everyone just easily presses it on (after lining up the little prongs of the weights), but when I try to it seems like the rotor isn't the right size or something. The weights feel like they are stuck open, and there is a little wiggle, but they do not move nearly as freely as with the original rotor. I have compared them and it seems like the holes are the same size and alignment as the original, so I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong! Considered shaving it down a little, but also don't want to mess it up and waste $$. It is able to sit all the way down to the base of the assembly, but the prongs on the weights just aren't sitting correctly.

It seems so silly because it should just pop on, but I'm missing something here. I have attached a photo to see if it jumps out to any one.

Thank you!

 

[uk gs nut]

I fitted one of those knock off dyna systems to my gs1000. I had to lightly file the slots in the magnet rotor to cure the issue you have. It works fine, I added a tiny bit of grease to the slots also.

 

[ZylonCrowley]

Dyna does away with the ignitor (CDI BOX). Red goes to any switched hot wire and look atthe left pick up yto see what color that wire is and that goes to the 1/4 coil. obviously the last wire goes to the 2/3 coil. I typically tie the red wire into one of the orange white 12v wires that go to one of the coils. Its been a while since i installed one so i dont recall if the black or white goes to the 1/4 coil. but if you hook it up and it wont start switch them around.
I dont know about special coils as i have always used the stock ones and have never had a problem.

Am I to understand you can bypass the cdi and wire directly to the coils?

 

[chuck hahn]

Correct. CDI (IGNITER UNIT) goes away. Red to any switched hot wire, I personally splice into one of the orange hot wires going to a coil. Left pickup goes to the 1/4 coil and right is 1/3. Note that when setting timing you only use the plug wire to cylinder 4. Since the ignition is factory set once the 1/4 F marks set the 1/3 is automatically set. When you swap them out this is also a good time to clean up the advance governor and lube it. Be sure that when you test twist it that it snaps back nice when you let go of it.










9

 

[chuck hahn]

You gotta wiggle the rotor a bit to get it to snap onto the weights. DONT file on aything. Wiggle the weights while applying a little pressure to the rotor.. I always set the original set up at TDC for 1/4 before disassembly. This way when i put the Dyna rotor on i can visually see the metal pickup bar is facing left. If it isnt them the rotor is on 180 out.

 

[salty_monk]

Chuck have you used one of those EBay sets? I haven’t but I wouldn’t be surprised if some minor adjustment was necessary, that’s pretty normal with any China part copies.
I’ve even seen it with brake pad backing plates.

 

[chuck hahn]

NO.. I just have used Dyna. But i dont see any reason they wouldnt be 180 out.

 

[dandypop]

Hello again!

So I have gotten the Dyna S off ebay (no instructions included and seems like may be a knock off) and am trying to install it, but I am having issues with the magnetic cuff fitting onto the shaft of the advance assembly. In the videos everyone just easily presses it on (after lining up the little prongs of the weights), but when I try to it seems like the rotor isn't the right size or something. The weights feel like they are stuck open, and there is a little wiggle, but they do not move nearly as freely as with the original rotor. I have compared them and it seems like the holes are the same size and alignment as the original, so I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong! Considered shaving it down a little, but also don't want to mess it up and waste $$. It is able to sit all the way down to the base of the assembly, but the prongs on the weights just aren't sitting correctly.

It seems so silly because it should just pop on, but I'm missing something here. I have attached a photo to see if it jumps out to any one.

Thank you!

This is exactly what I'm dealing with! How did they hold up after a year on your bike?

 

[dandypop]

I ended up having to very lightly file the rotor to get it to fit onto the advancer lobes. Don't be a gorilla, be a mouse. There's no way the rotor would have gone on without filing, though. That's the price of a cheap price.