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Looky what folowed me home.

JTGS850GL

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Well, kind of... Just picked this engine up as a possible rebuild project from ebay. The engine is from a "Good running and shifting" 1983 GS1100G with a supposed 28K miles. My plan, once it arrives, is to assess the condition, do the standard maintenance and then test run it on a 1000GL frame I have sitting around. If all checks out I'll be freshening her up, cleaning it up and then installing it in my 1000GT. Any suggestions or warnings on the transplant would be greatly appreciated.

Here are some pics:
so28zk.jpg


mQTDOu.jpg


0tu6AH.jpg


msOPZR.jpg


fT16Yk.jpg


I know that the valve cover is cracked and an oil pan fin is broken. That happened when the engine was removed. Already have a replacement valve cover on order. Paid $100 plus shipping of $100 so total was $200. Keeping my fingers crossed.:encouragement:

Anyone know if the 83 2 valve engines came with welded cranks or was that only a 4 valve thing?
 
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Wow. Well at least I know who beat me to it. Great score. I am hoping to do the same to mine before spring with an 1168 kit just for fun.
 
Good to hear about the D-port head. Hoping for no surprises once it arrives.

I'm assuming from the lack of responses that there are no issues with swapping it in in place of the 1000G engine. Just a simple drop in replacement.
 
Yes should be a direct replacement, probably even the carbs, jetting should be close. Ignition may plug right in , but I do believe that the igniters themselves are different. may have to use the 1000 pickups
 
Good heads up. I'll let you know how it turns out. Freight carrier says the engine should arrive on Monday.
 
I thought the D-port was the '84 GK. Happy for you if I'm wrong.

I seem to remember something about the 1100 output flange not matching the 1000. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing advice to get the drive shaft as well. Or was it the 850? Anyway, something to check into.
 
I thought the D-port was the '84 GK. Happy for you if I'm wrong.

I seem to remember something about the 1100 output flange not matching the 1000. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing advice to get the drive shaft as well. Or was it the 850? Anyway, something to check into.

That is the plan for mine. When I do it I intend to get the swinger and shaft just to eliminate any hangups right at the beginning. And starting from an 850 I will have to get a set of 34mm carbs to go with it as well.
 
Doing a little checking. It seems that Suzuki only offered the driveshaft as a complete assembly including splined shaft, U-joint and mounting flange. I checked the parts fiche and it seems that the 1980 1000G and 1983 1100G use the same driveshaft (27100-49110). Some of the 850's use the same shaft while others use another shaft. Starting in 1980 the 850GX uses the same shaft as the 1000G and 1100G but the GT uses a different shaft (27100-45102). By 1982 all the 850's use the same shaft as the 1000G and 1100G. Hope this helps to clear this up for others.
 
Received a call from the transport company today. Looks like the engine will arrive between 9:00am and 11:00am on Monday. YAYYYYY!!!! Replacement valve cover arrived today. Gasket should arrive on Monday as well.

What do you guys think? Should I paint it satin black or gloss black?
 
Engine arrived and everything looks as expected. Checked the cracked valve cover and it looks like the break is isolated to only the outside of the bolt boss and the bolt is bent. No cracks on the inside of the valve cover what so ever. Checked my replacement valve cover and everything fits nice. Just need to replace the one bolt. Checked the exhaust ports and they are indeed the D-Ports.:D Removed the exhaust gaskets. Some of the openings had 3 sets of gaskets installed.

Did a complete valve adjustment with only two valves in spec.:( None of the valves were completely solid as my .02mm shim would pass through. All shims that were replaced were equal to or greater then 2.70mm in thickness. Nothing thinner then 2.65mm was needed to get her back into spec.

I smelled a strong odor of gas in the engine but no oil or gas in the bottom end so I'm betting that they flooded the engine and drained the oil before shipment. Probably a carb problem with bad floats that dumped gas into the engine when they tried to verify its condition before pulling it. I'm just going to fill it back up and drain it again after cranking it over a little. Better safe then sorry. Oil is cheap when compared to another engine. Everything inside looked very clean with no signs of wear on the cam lobes.

Did a compression check with no carbs attached. Used a spare battery and jumped the cables directly to the starter motor (no solenoid) to turn it over. Compression numbers were all between 142 and 148 psi cold so I guess it's in good shape.:applause:

Still need to decide on what ignition I'm going to use. It came with the 1983 4 wire pickups used with the electronic advance computers. The 1980 1000G that it's going into has the 2 wire pickup with mechanical advance. Probably going to swap the 1000G advance and pickups over to the 1100G motor but still toying with the idea of going with the 1983 ECU.

With that done I'm moving onto cleaning/painting the engine up and polishing the side covers before installation. Satin black and polished aluminum looks so good to me.;) Sorry for no pictures but nothing pretty to take pictures of yet.
 
Any suggestions on the best way to clean up the engine? I don't want to disassemble the engine since it showed no signs of any major oil leaks. The engine looks to have been sprayed several times with various types and textures of paint. I was thinking of using aircraft strip from a spray can and then water from a garden hose to rinse it off as my first step. I'll seal up both intake and exhaust openings before I start.
 
That's pretty much how I do it though using what we call paint stripper (the professional, old fashioned stuff that burns your skin) which I presume is the same as your aircraft stripper. You might struggle with just a garden hose - I use a pressure washer and even then it's rinse and repeat a good many times and a bit of poking around with an old barrel brush and whatever other implements you can use to get in all the nooks and crannies.
 
I'm getting old and lazy. Paint stripper on an engine like that will be a LOT of work. Messy as all heck and you have the danger of blasting water in past the various seals and gaskets if you use a pressure washer (not sure you can get good results without it though). Wear eye protection and coveralls. GOOD LUCK!
 
That's pretty much how I do it though using what we call paint stripper (the professional, old fashioned stuff that burns your skin) which I presume is the same as your aircraft stripper.

Yep, the same product with a different name. I like using the Aircraft Stripper in a rattle can. Gets in there good and you don't need a brush.

I'm getting old and lazy. Paint stripper on an engine like that will be a LOT of work. Messy as all heck and you have the danger of blasting water in past the various seals and gaskets if you use a pressure washer (not sure you can get good results without it though). Wear eye protection and coveralls. GOOD LUCK!

I may just start on the less obvious areas and see how it goes from there. It would be a shame to not clean it up while it's not in a frame. I sure don't want to take apart a perfectly good engine just to clean it up if I don't have to. Good point on using skin and eye protection.
 
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One little set back discovered. Seems the stator is toast. Ohmed out each leg and it looked OK but then I checked each let to ground and found each leg reading 24K ohms.:( Oh well.... Kind of expected it since it looked like the bullet connectors were burnt and one was missing. The three wires were all yellow so it seems like the stator has been replaced once before. So I guess I'm in the market for a new stator. I checked to see if my good stator in the 1000 engine would work but Suzi shows a different part number between the 1980 1000G and the 1983 1100G motors. Shame if they're not interchangeable since the 1000G stator is almost new.
 
OK, today was the day to get things spruced up. Here's what were the tasks for the day:

Sand and polish all covers.

Gap and install new plugs.

Install valve cover with new cap screws.

Replace burnt stator with stator from GS1000G Frankenstein engine.

Transfer GS1000G ignition from Frankenstein engine to GS1100G engine.

Transfer oil pressure sender from Frankenstein. Found this damaged sender by accident. Just decided to check it and it was bad.

Replace oil filter and oil.

File and polish head fins.

Replace intake O-rings and mounting screws.

Here are the results:
dQtn9N.jpg


fVOvKJ.jpg


iB0fCK.jpg


je3Nsx.jpg


I know that the decals are not correct, but they do match the color theme I'm going for. I'm doing a red/black/gold theme with chrome/Polished aluminum as accent. The plan is to install this engine in the 1000G in my signature.

Next step is to decide if I want to try to fire up the engine before the install or after. I have an extra set of carbs that I'm going to setup for the 1100G engine before hand. I also have a GS1000 frame (minus engine) that I can use as a test bed. Any opinions on what direction I should go in? I have no direct experience with this engine and I'm a little gun shy based on the original 1000G engine turning out to be toast because of a seized rod. I did do a compression check on the 1100G engine and all cylinders came out to be between 142 and 148 cold. Should I try to fire her up before the install in order to verify everything or should I just install the engine and test it then. Right now the 1000G is in running condition so I would hate to find out that the engine has issues after the install.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
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