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Lubing throttle cables

H

hannibal

Forum Mentor
My bike has been sitting for more than a year. I recently pulled the VM carbs off to check them and reinstalled them. I noticed my throttle was very stiff and wouldn't spring closed when I released it so I removed the cables.

I see the manual says to lube the throttle cables with motor oil every 3,000 miles and grease the throttle tube every 6,000 miles. Since I've never lubed or replaced the cables, I'm past due on this maintenance. I'm trying to understand how to lubricate the cables inside the housing. Any tips? Sorry for the rookie question but I haven't done this before. I also removed the throttle tube and will grease this before reinstalling.

FYI, if this doesn't fix the sticky throttle, I'll grease the throttle shaft on the carbs.
 
If I'm not in a rush, I make a cup out of Plasticine or Blu-tac, squeeze it round one end of the cable in a sort of cup shape, hang the cable up,and fill the cup with oil. Leave overnight, longer if possible, and refill as required. Alternatively, I have two types of cable oiler. One is a hydraulic type, the other accepts the straw from an aerosol. It's probably easier if you google them for an example, rather than me try to explain here.
 
It might also be a good investment to simply replace the throttle cables. :-k

It's still a good idea to lube the cables before installing, but new OEM cables are absolutely WONDERFUL. :encouragement:

.
 
Anybody remember "Cable Lube", gosh that stuff worked good. Graphite suspended in a liquid that would evaporated. Appx, 4 oz. metal can with a tiny metal straw, appx' 3" long. Put the little straw down in the end of the cable & lightly squeeze till the liquid came out the other end, liquid would evaporate after depositing the graphite all up & down the length of the cable. No oil left to get gummed up with dirt & grit. Naw must of didn't work cause it ain't available anymore.
 
Cut the corner off a plastic bag, slip the cut corner over the end of the cable and tape it to the cable sheathing. Put some oil in the baggie and let it sit upright for a few minutes, the oil will work it's way down and start driving out the opposite end (bottom) If you work the cable up and down inside the sheath it'll go a bit quicker. You'll end up with some oil dripping onto the carbs afterwards and in the case of my bike some may drop out of the speedo drive so make sure to clean up any drips off the disc before you roll or ride it.
 
Big T said:
Buy the lube tool made by multiple places, like Motion Pro

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-0...ocphy=1024399&hvtargid=pla-460266440593&psc=1

Do Not lube anything on your carbs. If your carbs are sticking, find the problem and fix it
Click to expand...

Steve said:
It might also be a good investment to simply replace the throttle cables. :-k

It's still a good idea to lube the cables before installing, but new OEM cables are absolutely WONDERFUL. :encouragement:

.
Click to expand...



Yup and yup.

I know the manual says engine oil, but the aerosol stuff works a lot better and makes a lot less mess.

And yeah, at some point treat yourself to new OEM cables (clutch, too) and levers. Even if the old ones seem fine, the difference is astonishing. Like buttuh...

It's one of those little things, like replacing all the little rubber grommets and bumpers and hardware in the bodywork, that can make an old GS look and feel like new. The OEM parts are quite reasonable priced and massively better quality than the aftermarket crap.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the tips. I know I ordered 2 clutch cables a while back. I might even have new throttle cables on the shelf.

Instead of starting a new thread, I'll ask here. I know OEM cables are recommended over aftermarket cables. But what do you guys use when changing handlebars? Do you find shorter (or longer) OEM cables from another bike?
 
In general the GS1000S cables are closer to the right length. You can usually re-route the originals to get around the added length though. :)
 
There is a special tool that they sell at your local motorcycle shop for doing this. Attach to tool to the end of the cable and there is a little port that you spray lubricant into with a straw that comes with the cable lubricant. Spray and tool are less than $20
 
bwringer said:
Yup and yup.

I know the manual says engine oil, but the aerosol stuff works a lot better and makes a lot less mess.

And yeah, at some point treat yourself to new OEM cables (clutch, too) and levers. Even if the old ones seem fine, the difference is astonishing. Like buttuh...

It's one of those little things, like replacing all the little rubber grommets and bumpers and hardware in the bodywork, that can make an old GS look and feel like new. The OEM parts are quite reasonable priced and massively better quality than the aftermarket crap.
Click to expand...

One more yup. :D

Back in the day, we'd buy OEM parts because we probably didn't know we had a choice. There was no internet (all I can remember are J.C. Whitney catalogues). You'd go to the Honda or Kawasaki dealer and get your part.

I can remember hanging new cables in the garage and letting oil drip down them, but I'm all for these new-fangled tools and lubricants.
 
Rob S. said:
I can remember hanging new cables in the garage and letting oil drip down them, but I'm all for these new-fangled tools and lubricants.
Click to expand...

I can remember buying new cables with their new-fangled lining and oiling them. Created an unusable mess inside the cable as the nylon liner swelled and stuck.
Thankfully, nylon lined cables didn't seem to stick around too long and teflon lined ones became more available.
 
Grimly said:
Thankfully, nylon lined cables didn't seem to stick around too long and teflon lined ones became more available.
Click to expand...

You might have a few years on me (I hear you guys 'across the pond' age pretty well). I started street riding in 1975, and I'm not sure I remember nylon.
 
Most, around our local shop, never wanted wetness inside the cables. Oil or grease would collect dirt & grit & make a gummy paste inside the cables, thus the graphite lubricant, "Cable Lube". I Saw this Dry Lube stuff in a earlier post & figured the reasons were still viable. nothing wet inside the cable to cause goo.
 
rphillips said:
Most, around our local shop, never wanted wetness inside the cables. Oil or grease would collect dirt & grit & make a gummy paste inside the cables, thus the graphite lubricant, "Cable Lube". I Saw this Dry Lube stuff in a earlier post & figured the reasons were still viable. nothing wet inside the cable to cause goo.
Click to expand...

Sounds logical to me, but hey, I am a two-time grad school dropout. Facts: of all my cousins and siblings, I am the only one without a grad degree. Of all my cousins and siblings, besides me there is only one other who is not either a doctor or a lawyer..

I know that sounds snooty, IS snooty. But it's true. And that only other one besides me not a doc or attorney? An actuary, quite an esteemed and accomplished actuary. And, apologies in advance, no offense to a newer member who I know puts me to shame as a motorcycle mechanic or anyone else, my cousin the actuary (published, award-winning, etc.)? Borderline autistic, at the very least. What does that say about me?

NG. 86. It practically says, "Blacksheep" on my birth certificate. So when the Highway Patrol pulls up next to me speeding, and shouts out his window, "You're going to kill yourself," I might be thinking, "This motorcycle (and my other one) are all I have to live for." :(

And you guys. :)
 
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