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Making Custom (Very Close to Original) Faceplates for Gauges

  • Thread starter Thread starter Call Me Ahab
  • Start date Start date
C

Call Me Ahab

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Greetings and so on everyone - been absent for a while what with life and etc.

Been riding a lot until one thing or another got to be too much to ignore, and so while the bike is down for some R&R I figure I should do a little cosmetic touchup, refit gauges and whatnot while I'm at it.

I'm working on drafting up a couple of plates in AutoCAD and preparing to send them off to be printed once I'm satisfied with the final result. As I type this I'm sitting here with a protractor and double-checking my work.

I'm here looking for input (suggestions) and also for takers on anyone interested in a few plates in the event that they turn out okay.

I'm not looking for anyone's money - I don't intend to charge a dime for these, including shipping, unless the demand is overwhelming (I am paying for the prints out of pocket and hand-painting the plates after all).

Anyways. So my plan of attack at this moment is: Take plate from whatever year whatever model, build generic template (so far all three plates that I've checked have shared common dimensions - although there are OBVIOUS differences when compared to different years etc, so the availability of the plates I can make is fairly narrow). After building the basic template, I mount it to a fixed surface, measure the angle between each notch and line on the plate, and plug it right into CAD. Once these angles are all in there, it's a matter of building up the cosmetic details - line weight, setting up the spacing, arguing with myself over the font for the numbers (I've settled on a custom font, I'll fish that out later if anyone wants to know), then building the design so that it is as close as possible to the original plate.

I intend to print these on a PLA (Polyactic Plastic). It's a biodegradable plastic that won't break down until it's exposed to very specific enzymes, so there's no worry about it rotting off the gauge.

To get the red color that we see (on the applicable models and years) the plastic that the OEM plates are made on is colored a really bright orange-red. I'm torn on whether to print them on a red plastic or to use "professional" model paints to give the numbers different colors - green through the healthy range, yellow up to the 1,000 or so leading up to - and red for the actual red-line range on the tachometer.

For speedos obviously the color would just be OEM red/orange unless someone has a really specific preference.

Presently I have personally custom color matched the plates, I feel pretty accurately, to a Behr Marquee Flat paint. The paint code, if anyone cares to mix up a little jar of their own to test it is:
For an 8oz jar of paint,
Deep Base MQ303::: MANUAL FORMULA: BL @87/384oz IL @124/384oz KXL @47/384oz RL @71/384oz
(Please be advised that even a flat base will take up to 30 days to fully cure to a totally lusterless finish)

The plan is to print the plates on a makerbot or other 3d printer with the decals and affects raised to a few thousandths; apply a coat of the brown paint, thinned with floetrol to ensure there are no defects; mount the plate on a jig and gently block sand the raised surfaces flush - or near flush - to the rest of the board; touchup where necessary; paint the backs; coat front and back with either a flat spar urethane or other UV treatment to guarantee life of the finished product.

If anyone has experience with making the plates, or if you guys have any suggestions - fire away! I can use all the help I can get at this point.
Thanks for reading!

By the by - the model and years of the gauges I'm working with are 82 850, 83 1100(?) and What some joker on eBay claims is an 82 850 but I suspect is really a later-model 1000 or higher, seeing as the digits go up to 140 MPH not the 140 KPH my original 850 has.

If everything checks out and people like the way these turn out, I'd be happy to make plates for anyone in need - I know these are a serious pain in the arse to get ahold of. Hopefully this works out and can provide a solution to that problem. I for one am tired of a scored up faded old plate.

PPS - Im trying to find an alternative to PLA, I'm not sold on it as the plastic of choice.
 
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I wouldn't do these for free. At least charge for the shipping and materials. You should at least ask for any "donations". Post some pics once you get one done so we can see the fine work. Put me on the list for a tachometer and speedometer set for a 1982 GS850. Good luck with the project.
 
I'll tag along with this thread. I've always wanted a set of those gauge plates Nessism referenced. Cool of you to tackle this, and like JT said you should at least ask for shipping and donations, just like is done in the shim club.
 
Subscribed.....Beware, you may be bombarded with requests. Good luck, can't wait to see the pics of your work.
 
Hey guys! I'll post some screenshots of the faceplates in progress - I'm still working on the design; I have one just about finished (the 1-140mph one) But I need to double check the dimensions on that one.

I'll review the link for the other gauge plates that someone posted - thank you for that!

So far, I'm pleased with the progress. I just need to find an alternative to the PLA plastic that I can get at reasonable cost and in the right time frame for this project- PLA is apparently prone to distortion after a certain period; not so great for gauges! might consider a fiberglass plate and mount a PLA face on top, need to shop around materials.

I'll keep you all updated as often as I can - have to iron out some paperwork tonight, but will post SS when I am free!
 
Hey guys a quick check-in, making good progress - located another printer that'll do ABS plastique!
Anyways, for the folks that are interested in a set of the gauges (and if I don't get a reply on the thread I'll check in what with a PM)
Are you guys wanting a letter-for-letter play-by-play duplicate of your originals?

This is no problem, and I'm asking for individual preference here - my own personal gauges are going to just have MPH, on account of Texas being as imperial as it gets and I can't conceive of a reality in which I export this bike to the Motherland or someplace running in km/h.

I'll play with the image link doohickey some more and if I cannot get her to work I'll just drop some more photos in the photobucket.

Double checked all my measurements and corrected quite a few, but I think I've got em damn near dead to rights. Making a third pass and nearly done - so far so good!


EDIT:
Just so folks know what I'm getting into: the plates would either be fully printed with embossed letters and numbers, as well as all details. The reason being: I need a way to apply a coating to the 'background' that won't drive me nuts when I put it on there. As I posted earlier this Behr Marquee paint is lauded as the best of the best for ... well, houses... but damned if I can't find an automotive paint that makes the same claims or is anywhere near as easy to work with. My hands aren't steady so airbrushing em is right out anyways.

So the plan is still to coat the front of the plate and then using a custom rig my buddy at a local creatorspace fabricobbled up, sand or lathe-turn the lettering and embossed sections right near to flush with the plate. To achieve the red color coming through the gauge, I can either print another (or likely just BUY) a disk of an environmentally stable red plastic, or paint the reverse side with an acrylic or pro-grade 'hobby' paint.

I'm looking into how much light is blocked by plastic vs the paint, I don't want to ship out or use personally anything with a diminished visibility. That kinda defeats the point, no?

EDIT AGAIN:

I forgot I already posted a blasted rundown of the process! That'll teach me to write when I'm tired. Until next time, of course, seeing as I'm tired already.
 
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Looks good so far.Don't forget this is an international forum,I'm sure there will be requests for KM faces to.All mine a pretty good though.
 
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I'd like as close to OEM as possible but minor deviations wouldn't bother me. I have a 1980 GS1000G and a 1982 GS850GL for what it's worth.
 
Thanks for linking that in! I'm just about finished with the critical work on the 85mph plate - the 82 GS850 one. I've got a few little tweaks to make, but at this point they're cosmetic. I'm going to begin rendering this one into 3d after I create a good dynamic block of the template.
 
Cheers! I don't want anyone thinking I'm neglecting the project - life's busy and all that. Folks I haven't seen in over a decade are in town, catching up with family for the last time etc.

Did a quick workup of the tach plate from (year unknown at present - it's written down SOMEWHERE) another 850 set.

(A quick side-note... I am looking into alternatives to everything constantly - I want this done RIGHT! As a result, I am looking into vinyl, silk screen, etc... We'll see what turns up. Gotta be cost effective AND look good.

Link below!

...... I can't figure the jeezless thing out! Working on it....


HAH! Just had to upload from PC...
 

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Jusst a status update - I'm sorry for the lack of consistent updates, but I am very busy, and often cannot find the time to sit down for more than a few minutes at a time. That, and my computer crashed and burned the other day... but I'm back.

Work is coming along great with the plates - I'm having my first batch printed this coming week - assuming I make it to my reserved time-slot for the 3d printer. As soon as it's in, I'll post pics of the plate before and after the touchups; the raw ABS plates will require some TLC to polish off the rough edges. I'll post step-by-step pics as I take it from raw plate to finished product, and I'm hoping to have one finished by this time next week!

This is the trial plate, mind - pending the outcome and public reception of this initial run, I will decide whether this mode is viable or not.

If not - I have lined up a gent who will teach me to silkscreen plates, who can get me access to a laser-cutter and some sheets of ABS in ranges of 1/16 to 3/32 and etc; as close as I can get to OEM plate thickness.

I'm leery about laser-etched plates, but he thinks they might be the best bet if my initial attempt fails. He's suggesting that I laser-cut the letter out of a black, white plate - paint the entire face of the plate, then gently resin the letters back in, giving a perfectly flush surface that's as close to OEM as possible, while eliminating the need for white paint. I'm skeptical about the ability of ABS to resist UV light for prolong periods of time, and I have found a suitable UV resist transparent white paint that ought to work perfectly.

Anyways - one thing at a time! I'll drop in some pics when I get that print in.

Thanks for the support and advice guys, those other threads have been helpful, interesting at the very least.
 
I silk screened these....

Before....



After....



Not perfect, but they do look pretty good.

On the bike....

 
I silk screened these....

Before....



After....



Not perfect, but they do look pretty good.

On the bike....


Those turned out great from what I'm seeing....reminds me I could use a new orange needle for one of mine while I still have them apart....

Inquiring minds wish to know....how did you remove the bezels to get in there? Thin screw driver...right? Just curious to see if there's a better way....
 
Yeah, very carefully with a thin screwdriver. Then I powder coated the bezels before putting them back on. I used 0000 steel wool on the needles to remove the yellow oxidation, then tipped them with some "hooker red" nail polish.
 
Those silkscreened plates are beautiful - very nice!

I did not realize I could remove the yellowing from the needles, I'll do that before I reassemble everything... thanks for the tip :)

If I could get away with just recoating my plates I'd gladly do it - unfortunately, they have warped substantially. My goal is to product completely new plates that will mimic the originals. I'm still not completely happy with my font... but, I'm working on that.

Thanks for the continued input guys - hopefully this time tomorrow I'll be posting pics of a blank plate!
 
Can't say as I have a need for new plates.
With everything you are describing I find this to be real interesting.
Would like to just hold one and examine.
Really cool!!!
 
If everything goes well, that shouldn't be a problem :)

The parts should be done about .... now - I had to let the printer run past closing time for the shop, I'm going to run by after work tomorrow and pick up the plates and see how they came out. Will have photos and updates tomorrow. See you all then!
 
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