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My 1981 GS650G Thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter Macguyver
  • Start date Start date
You should be ! that is a fine piece of work.

Rat

Thanks Ratdude!
I appreciate the praise.
I try and keep myself occupied as best I can, and that usually means working on the bike, or brainstorming on stuff for the bike, or staring at the bike, etc, etc, etc. :D
 
Mac, you never cease to amaze me, that's impressive stuff, right down to the wire mesh on the side covers.

I intend to do the reverse of your choke modification; the 450 choke is on the side of the carbs and I hate it there so I want to try to get it handlebar mounted at some point down the track.
 
Mac, you never cease to amaze me, that's impressive stuff, right down to the wire mesh on the side covers.

I intend to do the reverse of your choke modification; the 450 choke is on the side of the carbs and I hate it there so I want to try to get it handlebar mounted at some point down the track.

Thank you for saying so Pete!

As far as the choke goes, I guess the grass is always greener eh? :lol:
 
It`s been a while since I have done an update, so here goes!

I have been obsessing over an idea I had about doing up some bar end signal lights for my 650 for a while now, and had built a few prototypes, but none really looked right. They kept ending up looking too long, and didn't really fit the mental picture of what I wanted my bike to look/feel like. So I kept redesigning them, and I think I have a winner!

I made them to be as low profile as I felt confident making them, and I wanted them to be really simple to attach, due to the fact I have bar end weights welded into my handlebars from the factory.

I made a mold for the casting out of a thread protector, an M8 bolt, some drinking straws, and my favorite mold release agent, white glue.
I then soldered some LED's together with a resistor and some wire, and positioned them in the mold.

Since they are going to be signal lights, I used a resin which has a dark amber tint to it once cured. In combination with the high intensity amber LED's, the color given off looks to be a very nice imitation of standard signal color. It may be a *little* more orange than some signals, but they have a rich tone to the color I really like. Yet I am confident they would be acceptable to any LEO who cared to check them in comparison to other signal lights.

So after the resin had fully cured overnight, I popped the parts out of the mold, washed off the mold release, and began sanding them down to be as optically clear as I could get them. I started with 180, then incrementally moved my way up to 1000 grit. when the resin is sanded, it will take on a more opaque look to it, this is normal, and can be cured by a polishing or clearcoating the piece. I clearcoated mine, and I am quite pleased with the final results.

I began drilling the center hole in the bar end weight for the mounting bolts to thread into, but my cordless went dead on me about 1/2" in, so drilling will be finished tomorrow night. Once drilled, I will tap the hole to M8 to match the bolts, and drill an additional hole to run the signal wire through to connect them up with the current front signals.

The first pic is the final mold, filled with resin.
The second pic is the cured part freshly pulled from the mold. You can kind of see the white glue sticking to it.
The final two pics are the finished part, sanded, cleared, and ready to install.

Overall time, about three hours so far for this set, maybe an hour tomorrow night to finish drilling/tapping the holes, and to install them. I think I may even go so far as to polish the bejebers out of the mounting bolts to get them to act as more of a reflector to send as much light out the sides as possible. I am sure they will be easily visible in the daylight, and will look amazing at night!

That is one of the coolest mods I've ever seen! Love it!:clap:
 
That is one of the coolest mods I've ever seen! Love it!:clap:

Thanks David,

I do what I can with what I have. It always seems that the parts I need are either not made, or are hella-expesive, so I usually end up making a lot of stuff, and a lot of prototypes.

I always get a kick out of using mundane materials in extra-ordinary ways. It's fun, and I highly recommend it.*

*As long as it is safe to do so, of course. I wouldn't want anyone hurting themselves doing something silly.
 
I love the updates, keep them coming.

Hope to see you riding soon. I will have my 650 down for the weekend with a laundry list of projects ready to go. new seat foam & cover, fix the broken tabs on the seat pan, new rear tire and install new spline, fab up some brackets and install new saddle bags, mod a rack and sissy bar to fit, move the blinkers to the license plate holder to make room, install my rear brake ss lines. Then on Sunday is the engine top end job for new oem this time base and head gaskets, with a fresh valve shim check and toss in the new clutch springs for good measure. wrap it all up with dumping the oil and putting fresh oil and filter in.

I just hope I get it all done and can be riding again on Monday :D
 
I love the updates, keep them coming.

Hope to see you riding soon. I will have my 650 down for the weekend with a laundry list of projects ready to go. new seat foam & cover, fix the broken tabs on the seat pan, new rear tire and install new spline, fab up some brackets and install new saddle bags, mod a rack and sissy bar to fit, move the blinkers to the license plate holder to make room, install my rear brake ss lines. Then on Sunday is the engine top end job for new oem this time base and head gaskets, with a fresh valve shim check and toss in the new clutch springs for good measure. wrap it all up with dumping the oil and putting fresh oil and filter in.

I just hope I get it all done and can be riding again on Monday :D

That is a bit of a laundry list you have there, if you have some spare time, did you want to take care of a few on my list? :lol:
 
Oh and didn't mention Church and staying late to try and sign up a few more sponsor's for the children and Haiti on Sunday, so the engine work wont start till like 1. Luckily I did it before so should be fast this time, no bolts should break <crosses fingers> and I know everything is decent on the inside.

I just got to slow down and be extra careful on my cleaning and tightening of the bolts. side note, got any idea how soon after I should torque them up again after the install? last time I did 500 miles and think that was too long maybe...
 
Side note, got any idea how soon after I should torque them up again after the install? last time I did 500 miles and think that was too long maybe...

I've always done retorques after 100 miles or so. 500 does sound a little too high. I am sure some of the engine builders here will know. Also, loosen the bolts by 1/4-1/2 turn before retorquing since static torque and dynamic torque are different.

That reminds me, the Yamahaha I did the topend on for my buddy needs to be retorqued. I asked him to ride it up to me and I'll retorque everything around 3 months ago. I am guessing he hasn't torqued them on his own. I think I'll give him a call. I would hate to see all the work I put into it be for nothing.

On a side not of my own, my usual supplier of vinyl doesn't carry it anymore. So I am stalled on making a new cover for my custom seat until I can source some material. I should be able to get some by the weekend, and if not, I will drive the two hours to a supplier I know carries it to get some.

I believe the next part to make on my list is the licence plate mount. Once it is finished and the electrical is all done(very close), then I can get the bike safetied!
 
would really love to have one of those choke cable assemblies. Any chance you could fab one up for me? or at least the shortened choke cable itself?
 
would really love to have one of those choke cable assemblies. Any chance you could fab one up for me? or at least the shortened choke cable itself?

As long as your bike is a 650 with BS32SS carbs, I could certainly fab one up for you since I have one now to use as a template. I would likely do one or two things differently now that I have made one. I would probably have the guys across the street cut it out of one piece of sheet steel with their CNC plasma cutter instead of welding everything together. Same would go for the cable holder. I'll get a hold of the guys at the fabrication shop and see what they can do for me for pricing.
 
Air Cleaners

Air Cleaners

Since I ran out of 1/8" sheet, I can not finish my licence plate holder, so I figured I would jump back on to finishing the air cleaner assemblies I had already cut most of the pieces for.

I started with some 22 gauge sheet steel, which I traced the outline of the air intakes of the carbs onto. Once those were traced, I grabbed the intake boots from the el-cheapo pod filters I have, and marked the diameter of the flange which holds them on the filter, onto the sheet steel. I then crunched some numbers to come up with the proper dimensions to mimic what I believe the flow rate of the original air box was.

Then I transformed my numbers into dimensions on the sheet steel, and cut out all of my pieces to create the air cleaners.

aircleaner1.jpg


aircleaner2.jpg


The mesh material which is used to hold the filter foam in place is 1/4" spacing, galvanized steel fencing mesh, and the bolt in the center is an M6 bolt I had laying around. Once I had all of the pieces cut to size and roughly shaped, I broke out the welder and started putting everything together.

aircleaner3.jpg


The original plan was to weld everything together, but the mesh virtually disintegrated as soon as the welder heated it up, so I ended up using some high temp grey gasket silicone to lock the mesh in place.

Once everything was passed over the bench grinder to clean up the edges, I etch-primed it, then primed and painted the pieces in preparation for final assembly. The filter foam I am using is quite thick, yet free flowing enough that I felt it best to be able to tune the flow down to what I need, instead of trying to nail it on the first attempt. So I also have an inner cage inside the filters to keep the foam where it is supposed to be, and by wrapping sealing tape over the outside of the inner cage, I can tone down the flow as needed.

aircleaner4.jpg


I have mounted these on the bike, and as expected, it is running lean, but I am confident that I should be able to tune the flow down to a point where I do not need to rejet to use these filters. I am quite pleased that I was able to make the filters adjustable to work with my bike, and I do not not have to adjust the the bike, to make it work with the air filters. As it should be.

On a side note for those who want to use the more inexpensive pod filters on your bike, you can adjust the amount of flow they allow to your carbs.
Simply confirm that they are making the bike run lean (white plugs, stumbling accelleration, etc...do a search if unsure) and block off the pleats on the outside of the filter material to limit the flow down to what you need. When blocking off the pleats, cover the inside of the V shape of the pleats, as this is the only part of the pleat you can easily cover later with silicone gasket maker.

I would say start small and slowly close in on the right amount to block off. You can do a quick and dirty trial by blocking off the pleats with some duct tape to get a good idea of how many to block off. With the el-cheapo pods filters I have, I believe I ended up blocking off 5 of the pleats to get my bike to run right. Your number may vary depending on your setup.

Also, in the sake of keeping the airflow inside the filters as equal as possible, when blocking off the pleats, do one at a time, then test. If the filter is still running the bike lean, block off another pleat with duct tape on the opposite side of the filter, then test again. This method may take a while to get you to the right number, but it does work. Also, make sure you completely cover the pleat in the material with the duct tape to block it off, otherwise, you will be not be able to get an accurate read on the air flow.

Once I had determined the number of pleats to block off, I peeled off the duct tape one piece at a time, and filled the pleat with some silicone gasket maker.

The pods may look a little odd with lines of gasket maker filling in the pleats, and I suppose you could fill them on the inside if you were not worried about a piece dislodging and getting drawn into the engine, thus keeping the outsides of them looking clean.

Well, that's it for now. Pics of the filters on the bike, and more coming soon! (Maybe even a video or two!)
 
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Guess what? My bike is a 650 using BS32 carbs, how sweet is that?! haha. Let me know how much for a set (bracket + cable) or even for your original, if you plan on getting a new one.

Also, what length did you gt for the stainless brake lines?
 
Guess what? My bike is a 650 using BS32 carbs, how sweet is that?! haha. Let me know how much for a set (bracket + cable) or even for your original, if you plan on getting a new one.

Also, what length did you gt for the stainless brake lines?

That is pretty sweet, I will figure out a price for you once the CNC guy at the fab shop comes back from vacation.

As far as the brake lines go, um, I can't remember. I just took a piece of string, and ran it the length of the stock cable, marked it with a marker, then measured the string. I do know I went a little longer than I should have, since I was already planning on replacing the bars with some superbike bars, which would have cut down the cable length by a good 2-3 inches.
 
Licence Plate Bracket

Licence Plate Bracket

Small update here, Just finished installing my licence plate bracket!

I fashioned it from some 3/32" thick angled fencepost, a standard licence plate light & holder, and some ungodly thick 3/16" steel plate. I wanted the mount to be very rigid since I was planning on recessing it slightly into the rim area to keep it out of the main air flow, and the thinnest steel plate the metal shop across the road had was 3/16"! :eek:

Here are some pictures.
licenceplatebracket1.jpg


licenceplatebracket2.jpg


licenceplatebracket3.jpg


As you can see, it's not tucked into the rim area too far, still has to be legible from behind and all.

licenceplatebracket4.jpg


Which it is.

Now for the piece de resistance, all lit up.

licenceplatebracket5.jpg


There, now that looks better, or at least, more legal. :D

Technically, I could go get her safety inspected now, but I have one or two things I want to do first. I will update with more when I can.
 
I'm jealous Mac, you're gonna be on the road in no time now! Nicely done again :D
 
Thanks guys!

Yep, getting very close now. I ony have literally a couple of things left to finish, then I'll be taking the bike in to get the inspection out of the way, and get all of my paperwork in order.

I'm having a rough couple of weeks here, never seems to be enough time in the day, or when I do get a couple hours here and there, custom fabbing parts takes so long it seems like I never make any real progress.

I will be so glad when I am done, then I can get all of the "bike clutter" sorted out and stored away out of sight. I have had bike parts on my kitchen and coffee tables for months now, and it's really bugging me!

Mind you, once I have her on the road, then I will start other projects like rewinding stators, and making some fiberglass body pieces. Luckily, those projects won't take up too much space.

More updates coming soon!
 
I hear you on the mess... I had engine parts all over for the past 2 weeks or so. Now that the bike is running I need to do a cleanup and sort and stash all the tools that are everywhere. maybe even rebuild my tool kit.
 
Yeah, tools to the left of me, parts to the right...
Maybe I will redo my storage room and build in a couple of workbenches. That would be sweet.

I might just get a jump-start on that tonight since it is absolutely pouring rain outside. Certainly not going to be able to work on the bike tonight. :(

So how is your bike running now that the top end is all done? Perfectly I hope.
 
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