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My cheap 83 750e

The stock bars mount above the triple tree like those do and use a bolt in the hole near the split in your bar clamp to locate the bar position, ie: no adjustment of bar angle which I really don't like too much. Stock bars on yours should have about a 4" rise while the ES/EF have about a 2" rise. Your forks look to be in the correct position. I can sttach a photo of mine if you like.
 
Sounds familiar.... Ive never sat on a 700, but the stock handlebars on my 1150 had an odd unnatural angle... to me anyway. I ended up with e bay sourced Telefix clip on types, but mine are more adjustable than what came on yours, plus they have a bit of rise. I didnt have the option to slide the forks up with the air crossover tube, and the fork didnt fully slide thru, but its never been an issue in the 12 plus years.
Mine are at the sweet spot between lazy and aggressive..... I too had to trim the plastic cover..... I feel a bit guilty for not feeling guilty for it..:p
 

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Sandy said:
The stock bars mount above the triple tree like those do and use a bolt in the hole near the split in your bar clamp to locate the bar position, ie: no adjustment of bar angle which I really don't like too much. Stock bars on yours should have about a 4" rise while the ES/EF have about a 2" rise. Your forks look to be in the correct position. I can sttach a photo of mine if you like.
Click to expand...

That would be nice if you could do that. I would think my forks would be higher than stock.
 
I will second what Sandy said,the fork tubes extend that far up with the stock bars.Here's a pic of how high up they go

The tubes are extra long;)
As for the airbox boots I'd try wintergreen oil,worked wonders on the engine side boots on the 85.
 
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Charlie G said:
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I'm having a problem acquiring new boots connecting the carbs to the air box. Three Suzuki suppliers list item #2 no longer available. What are you 83-83 750 owners using for a replacement or how do you make do. Mine are really hard .
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As a last resort if you can not obtain new rubber, the old ones can be refurbished with wintergreen oil and xylene mixed at the rate of 70% wintergreen to 30% xylene. Soaking them for 8-12 hrs. will make you think you have new ones.
I did this with mine and then found out I could still buy replacements. Good luck.
 
SVSooke said:
I will second what Sandy said,the fork tubes extend that far up with the stock bars.Here's a pic of how high up they go

The tubes are extra long;)
As for the airbox boots I'd try wintergreen oil,worked wonders on the engine side boots on the 85.
Click to expand...


Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words. I was concerned that the frame would be lower and the steering geometry altered. Seems odd....Thanks guys! Wintergreen, xylene.........and a shot of Crown, got it!:encouragement:
 
About those intake boots, maybe 88-97 Katana GSX750F boots will work. They look very similar.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
About those intake boots, maybe 88-97 Katana GSX750F boots will work. They look very similar.
Click to expand...

I'll look into that. It's only the inside ones that are discontinued.

I went on a hunt for Wintergreen oil today. The drug store has it but it's 70% alcohol. The health food store has 100% pure for $9.99 an ounce. I'm going back to check on line. Anyone have a source?
 
It doesn't take much Charlie. I have softened 4 boots with only a dozen drops in hot water and then let them sit for a few days. All I could get up here was the same $10 ounce at the health store. A the boots smell so fresh afterwards...for a long time.
 
Managed to do a few things weekend between some getting ready for winter chores. Removed the battery box because it was a bit rusty and I figured the air box needed the extra room to move to pull the carbs.

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(Looking down toward the swing arm pivot) I found the R&R attached to the plastic fender with one bolt. Now that didn't seem right. It goes under the ignitor bracket. Remounted it in place.

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This connector for the R&R is a new one to me. Anyone know if this in a stock OEM device. It is just hanging here.

Pulled the front master cylinder, ordered the new lense two weeks ago from New River Cycle salvage. Still hasn't shown. Found a replacement lense for the tail light from some parts AZR/Sandy left me from a GS 1000e rescue bike. Thank you fellows! That style lense fits a whole bunch of bikes.

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Man I love my 1100g for removing carbs from. These are tight!!! I would be indebted. I quite because dinner was ready.

I

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The air box is abitch!!! Anyone have the magic words for it's removal. I'd be indebted.

It's spitting snow outside:smilet-digitalpoint
 
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Just saw this thread, you've got your work cut out for you. I have an 83 750ES, and the R&R was mounted under the battery box if I remember correctly, I have several bike in various states of disarray right now so I may be thinking of a different bike. Both my 850's had them under the battery box for sure. I've long since replaced mine with a CompuFire, ran it up front above the oil cooler, mounted to the front of the frame and didn't even need to drill any holes. Looks like someone has modified the wiring, those connectors don't look factory and they are browning, might want to take a peek at the stator too, and get yourself a Polaris or CompuFire R/R.

Someone else will need to confirm/deny, but IIRC the engine has to be moved forward (or removed completely) to get the airbox out.

Following along with interest, and I am particularly interested in how you do with the wintergreen and xylene concoction for those boots. I have some that are quite hard and want to do the same.
 
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Snow? meh?
The next generation Suzukis have side frames. The airbox just lifts out, easy access to carbs.
 
The R/R mounts to the battery box just as mikerophone remembered,I managed to stuff a PH009(IIRC) in the stock location but it's TIGHT:eek:The bad news on the airbox is you probably can't get it out without removing the engine.A member said it could be done by removing all the engine mounting bolts and getting it as far down and forward as possible then it barely got out,maybe.Not sure I trust doing it that way but .I HATE pulling the carbs on the 750,major PITA!
 
I appreciate the comments....even the info on the next generation.

I've already removed the rear engine mounts. I'll probably remove the cam chain tensioner and see if that works and give up if not. I really just want to clean in there real good. No other reason to remove it. Initially I want it out to use impact wrench on the boot screws into the head, but I managed to get them out with minimal swearing.

I'll clean up that burnt connector for the R&R. I'll have to wait on replacing the R&R for the time being.
 
Yes you have to loosen the engine mounts to get the box out if I recall correctly. Still tight. Good luck with it. I had to use a ratchet strap to get the carbs back on the 750. This is why a lot of the airboxes are missing as they are often cut away & pods used instead.

I have a very small handful of parts left over from the ES if you need something. Little bits of trim & the like.

The stock bars are a bit overly angled back so I think those oftermarket ones might be good. The height is about right from memory.

Have fun! :)
 
Charlie G said:
I appreciate the comments....even the info on the next generation.

I've already removed the rear engine mounts. I'll probably remove the cam chain tensioner and see if that works and give up if not. I really just want to clean in there real good. No other reason to remove it. Initially I want it out to use impact wrench on the boot screws into the head, but I managed to get them out with minimal swearing.

I'll clean up that burnt connector for the R&R. I'll have to wait on replacing the R&R for the time being.
Click to expand...

If all you're doing is cleaning like I did then just remove the battery box, loosen the air cleaner mounts and that should give you the room you need to get in there. Just don't put the carbs back on until you're done. I think removed the electrical panel too. With everything loose and the battery box out I just used some bungies to hold the airbox back. I don't recall it being any worst than the carbs on my 1000, a bit of it PITA but not too bad.
 
Looks like you got your hands full. Cool project, I look forward to following along.
 
In response to mikerophone, yes the wintergreen oil and xylene concoction for those boots does work. I did mine recently.
 
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