My "New" 1982 GS650GL: 6k Miles, Trying to Assess Priorities

[Leftie]

I wasn't really planning to buy this bike. It showed up on Ebay in Spring with a reasonable opening bid of $1225, so I watch-listed it and forgot about it. On the day the auction ended, I got an alert, and shrugged and bid that much, fully expecting it to sell for more. When I got home later that day, the bike was mine. I think the "Barn Find" in the title scared people off (maybe with good cause) but the description of the bike said it belonged to the father in law of the seller, who stored it for a large, unspecified number of years. The bike isn't rusty, and the seller claimed to have replaced all fluids, and to have put a new battery and new tires on it. It took a while to get it shipped for a decent price, and while I was waiting he posted a short vid on YouTube of it starting. It seemed fine.

When I got the bike it still started right up, but the motor seemed a bit noisier than my old GS850G. It also had a faint smell of gas about it, especially in the garage after running. I had asked the seller about any issues, and he said I might want to replace the old brake pads - that was it. So imagine my delight when the carbs flooded while the bike was sitting in the garage, dumping most of the 1/4 tank of gas on the floor. I have a new Suzuki petcock assembly ordered. In the meantime I've also posted a "vid" (mostly audio-only) of the bike starting and running, and I'd like opinions on how the motor sounds. I especially want to know if the valves sound loose (I don't think they sound tight) and if the metallic sound I'm hearing is normal or not. I want to get the bike up to snuff, but I can't do all the work myself because of health issues, and I haven't yet found a mechanic who knows the old GS engines well. So keeping in mind that I can't tear the bike down and refurbish it system by system, where should I start? The first link below is the vid from the Ebay seller, the second link is for my own mostly-audio vid. For some reason I can't get the links inserted in the body of the text properly..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehl58f8LmUA



https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=RyEfGhBl-g8

 

[tom203]

Only 6k miles, how bad can it be? Your youtube video failed for me, but seller's worked. My hearing is poor, but it sounded odd, tinny. I'd suspect a frozen camchain tensioner after all these sitting years, but I'm just guessing wildly.
You have had/still have lots of bikes according to your signature, what possessed you to get one off ebay, when there are many craiglist offerings popping up all the time?

anyways, lots of stuff needs to be checked out- what kind can't you do? Finding a willing and capable guy to work on these old critters is challenging. Why not specify your "upstate" location better, cuz there might be a member in your vicinty.

 

[Leftie]

I was wondering about the cam chain tensioner. How do you free one up? I remember my then-new GS550T coming with a warning never to touch that little exposed wheel...

I live near Mechanicville, which is near Saratoga and Troy. I've watch CL for quite a while, actually, and had an alert set for a GS650, but they are pretty rare around here.

 

[tkent02]

What makes you think there's a tensioner problem?
The most common problem is that someone turned the setscrew in all the way and set the locknut.

 

[tom203]

Yes, the tensioner might have been adjusted wrong. But sitting in a barn for years could have frozen it in place. You need to remove cam cover anyways to check valve clearances - absolute must- so you will have a shot at checking tensioner movement at same time. Getting the tensioner actually off the 650 requires carb removal- no fun, but it's probably on yours or someones to do list!

 

[tom203]

The tensioner is a real simple device- once you understand it. Unfortunately, lots of folks mess it up. Basically, that big spring pushes on a ball that pushes on a ramp in plunger's shaft - thanks to plunger's spring, the ramp can creep out to take up slack, but can't push back due to knob's tension

 

[Leftie]

The seller now tells me that the bike was in storage for 25 years, and that it probably wasn't serviced after it was bought new. So, 7-8 years in use after new, no real service, then 25 years' storage, then a few rides with fluids changed (not front shaft oil). I have to find an old Suzuki Tech to go through and give the bike every necessary service. I'd kind of been expecting that, but was led to believe that it had had *some* of this done. The carbs were supposedly cleaned, but it's a safe bet they weren't rebuilt.

If I can't find the aforementioned Suzuki mechanic, is anyone here interested in buying the bike for what I have in it - about $1800? It looks very good, straight and not rusty I'll post pics when I get them up on Photobucket. I am a little concerned with the amount of rust in the tank, but there is a metal-element fuel filter installed. This bike is a perfect candidate for a full restoration, something I may not be able to give it.

 

[Leftie]

Here are some photos of the bike. Click on the thumbnails for the full-sized image. Once I replace the petcock and get the airbox area completely dry, I'll want $2k for it. The bike *looks* so damned nice, I'm conflicted about it.

 

[tom203]

Not to be a debby downer here, but you will have to be real lucky to get that price. Decent looking, sorta decent running ones in my area struggle to fetch $1000.

 

[Guest]

I own a 1981 GS650GL and I have to agree with tom203. I've got $1500 to $1800 into mine - it runs and looks great, and I could not realistically hope to get $1500 to $1800 for it. It's an old bike that isn't "special" for any reason to make it collectible or sought after. If I were you I'd read all of the excellent advice available on this site and restore the bike yourself. There are so many resources available to you here and so many good people that give freely of their knowledge and time. I'm about average when it comes to being mechanically inclined and I've been able to replace valve stem seals, head gasket, adjust valves, etc., all because of the information available here.

The 650 is a great bike. Give it some time and it'll pay you back!

Cheers!
K

 

[tkent02]

The seller now tells me that the bike was in storage for 25 years, and that it probably wasn't serviced after it was bought new. So, 7-8 years in use after new, no real service, then 25 years' storage, then a few rides with fluids changed (not front shaft oil). I have to find an old Suzuki Tech to go through and give the bike every necessary service. I'd kind of been expecting that, but was led to believe that it had had *some* of this done.

The PO lied... Imagine that. Yeah it won't sell for anything near $1800, might as well dig into it, fix what you can fix, paint what you can't and ride it.

 

[Leftie]

I just sold my slightly ratty '82 GS450T for $950, so the market is a bit better here, but I understand about not considering old bikes an "investment." Anyway, I spent the evening dealing with the gasoline issue. The tank is now off the bike and almost completely drained. The NOS petcock should arrive tomorrow, and I'll hopefully put it on Friday. (The tank will likely stay off a while, though, until I find someone to do the valves - I've adjusted rocker arm pushrod setups, but never a shim system, and have no intention of trying it at my advanced age.) I'm now facing the question "Can I safely not remove the inner airbox and/or carbs?" As I understand it, the intake system is designed so that as long as the bike isn't facing downhill when the carbs flood, the gas just drains into the inner airbox and out the drain hose, which is what happened with mine. What I'm not sure of is how much excess gas stays in the carbs. I parked the bike facing up a small hill, and some more gas drained out of the airbox vent hose. It shouldn't be too hard to get that box off if necessary, but I don't want to disassemble the carbs, not even just the float chambers, if it's avoidable. So can these engines be started with the gas out of the airbox but the carbs untouched?

Oh, and I *carefully* moved the cam tensioner wheel a little, and it moves easily counterclockwise, and springs back, but doesn't move clockwise. I assume that's normal?

A few photos, of the outer airbox and inside of tank:

 

[Leftie]

I notice that the frame is very new-looking in many areas, and rusting and/or greasy in others. Who makes a good gloss black spray paint for this use? I'd just be touching it up, not repainting the frame.

 

[tom203]

1/ " It shouldn't be too hard to get that box off if necessary, but I don't want to disassemble the carbs"

carb removal on this model is a pain.. Not sure why you want to skip this step and get airbox out/off. Years of sitting in barn mean carb cleaning is calling, plus your gas tank insides need work.
with bike parked on level ground, overflowing carbs will send fuel down intake tracks into cylinders and onward into crankcase (look at carbs, they are slightly tilted toward cylinders).

2/ "Oh, and I *carefully* moved the cam tensioner wheel a little, and it moves easily counterclockwise, and springs back, but doesn't move clockwise. I assume that's normal? "

This just says that the big knob/spring isn't froze, but doesn't tell you that the plunger shaft is able to move out against the chain. Best to remove carbs and remove tensioner and know for sure.

 

[Leftie]

The carbs were cleaned by the last owner. I believe it, because it's unlikely the bike would start easily and run if they hadn't been.

Can anyone else confirm that the cylinders are likely flooded with gas?

 

[tom203]

Ok, put your new petcock on, at least change the crankcase oil ( cuz it's got gas in it) and see how well it runs - not just starting and idling, but running under load. I'm not sure why you are putting any faith in a previous owners claims.....

 

[Leftie]

So they really designed this bike so that a flooded carb would result in one or more flooded cylinders? Greeaat... I'll check the oil for signs of gas in the next work session, and if there is any hint of contamination I'll change it - cold, I guess. I guess I'll pull both airboxes and look into the carbs. If it appears that they need to be pulled, I think I'll leave that job for the mechanic I hope to find. I'll post again when I know more.

 

[tom203]

Forget taking off airbox - carbs need to be out first unless you use a sawzall. Change the petcock, change the oil,and see if the engine sounds better- the gas thinned oil might have caused problems in this plain bearing crank.
There are a bunch of members on here that clean carbs properly- for a fee - so if you have no luck finding an experienced local guy, consider this option.
But try to determine if engine sounds good mechanically, before you invest more money in it. Even with just 6k miles, something bad could have happenned 30 years ago sending it into the barn. I'm the suspicious type!

 

[Leftie]

Re: Carb Removal

Re: Carb Removal

Forget taking off airbox - carbs need to be out first unless you use a sawzall. Change the petcock, change the oil,and see if the engine sounds better- the gas thinned oil might have caused problems in this plain bearing crank.
There are a bunch of members on here that clean carbs properly- for a fee - so if you have no luck finding an experienced local guy, consider this option.
But try to determine if engine sounds good mechanically, before you invest more money in it. Even with just 6k miles, something bad could have happenned 30 years ago sending it into the barn. I'm the suspicious type!

I posted the video here of me starting and warming the bike up in the hope of determining that. I know basic engine technology, and my opinion is that the bike hasn't got any big red flags, but does sound a little "off." I've ordered carb kits for it, and new O-rings for the intakes. I didn't realize the carbs had to come off before the airboxes! I am also familiarizing myself with the valve adjusting procedure. Can anyone point me to a reasonably priced shim assortment for a bike getting its first (or maybe second, at most) valve adjustment? Is the "shim club" still active here? And also, can I safely get aftermarket valve cover gaskets, or should I get OEM only?

 

[tom203]

Skip the shim assortment- most will be useless to you. You'll likely need a few smaller thickness ones and can shuffle them around. Determine what size you need and join the shim club.... PM member ghostgs1
You don't need carb kits- you just need new o-rings from www.cycleorings.com (a member on here)

The 82 gs650 had two different cam cover gaskets, so be careful. If you show me a pic of the camchain tunnel at front of engine, I can make sure you get correct gasket. Later 82's had a extra bolt in this area. I prefer the genuine suzuki gasket, but last winter I picked up some Vesrah versions- a sideby side comparison showed them exactly alike.