New-2-Me '80 GS750L

[SVSooke]

Absolutely love my Supertrapp.Got the aluminum can version.Here's a vid of mine

Hope my carb work's cured the rich in the vid you see That is with a full set of disks,have quited it down since:-#

 

[Cougar]

it's looking good.
what are you doing with your old 4 into 2 exhaust?

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Cougar: It's hanging in the rafters of the shop for safe keeping at the moment. If you are interested I can snap a couple pics of it. Lord knows I can use the build funds no matter how small.

Sunday it got to 30, I took the engine and an airhose outside the shop O/H door and used my siphon gun and a bottle of simple green and gave it a degreasing, then a hot water rinse and brought it back in front of the heater. I sat with it and a shop towel for over an hour rubbing off the remainders while it was drying.

Shocks and side stand are re-assembled, frame is clamped on the portable "Work-mate" bench for final cleaning / detailing while I am waiting for the next warm spell to thow some primer on it.

I think next on deck will be the gauges to come inside where it's warm and work on in the evenings.

 

[Testarossa]

And here, I was worried about painting my parts when it was 50. Good thing you have a "men's room." I don't think I would get away with freshly painted parts in the house.

 

[81ZUKI75]

Gauge Rework

Gauge Rework

I think next on deck will be the gauges to come inside where it's warm and work on in the evenings.

If you're doing internal cleaning, take some good pics from disassembly all the way through. I've been through my E-model gauges but they're easy-peasy compared to the L and T clocks.

My T model tach gets a little jumpy after 40 or 50 miles of cruising and I've been putting off opening it up .

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

And here, I was worried about painting my parts when it was 50. Good thing you have a "men's room." I don't think I would get away with freshly painted parts in the house.

Oh, I didn't get away with it! When the Wifey woke up she said "Are you you CRAZY?!" Silly woman, she already knows the answer

If you're doing internal cleaning, take some good pics from disassembly all the way through. I've been through my E-model gauges but they're easy-peasy compared to the L and T clocks.

My T model tach gets a little jumpy after 40 or 50 miles of cruising and I've been putting off opening it up .

Actually the clocks look pretty good,the faces are clean, we will see when I get to them how much they really need. I am big on taking pics on disassembly, sure helps for referance when the manual says "Reverse Procedure". I did my GL1100 gauges so it's not my first time around the block. But I do need to read up on them regaurdless.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

The original paint on the frame had tiny cracks leaving millions of hair-like veins of rust. I removed all that with some Naval Jelly and steel-wool. Then used my die-grinder to clean up some 30 year old welding splatter from when she was built. Wiped it down a few times with rubbing alcohol and took it into work. Two cans of Rustoleum's "Etching Primer" and 24 hours to cure later and here it is back at home.

 

[SVSooke]

Any progress? Know you found a frame color.Had a CB350-4 about 25 years ago.Best comment on them i seen was"They are built like a Swiss watch,with the torque of one."

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thanks for asking!
I had removed the corroded engine covers and used paint stripper and steel wool to get them cleaned up. Next bought several boxes of baking soda at the "Dollar Store". Then used my sandblaster gun and "soda blasted" the aluminum pieces. Today I hit them all by wet-sanding with 320. First stage towards the polished finish.

For comparison, here is some pics after soda blasting...






And here the are after the first round of wet sanding.






Next will come 600, the 1200, then even 2000 if needed before taking it to the buffing wheel.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Could have swore I posted these earlier... Here is the "Before" shots.





Big progress already but still a long way to go. By using my siphon gun on my air compressor with Simple Green helpped it a lot. I have already used a small brass detail brush on the fins but need to get down in there further. I plan on using about a 20g brass brush from my gun cleaning kit to get to the base of the fins.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Ok, been a while since I updated but this is why... nights of wet sanding, gadually moving to finer grit down to 800.
Then last night I went to my Mates shop where they have a buffing wheel. Here is where those same pieces are tonight.







Whew! Yes, thats my cieling fan and cell phone in the reflection!
Finally, now I can move onto something else!

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

I've been sanding the primer on the frame, cleaning the engine block and working on the fork lowers that were in similar shape (BAD). These a some of the bikes I have saved in my "motivational" folder for this build. Notice the tank shape of the "L" suites itself nicely!

Other common factor? They all have black fork lowers. For some reason this is really catching my eye, none seem to be Ratbike-ish but just come across with the attitude I want for this build. Since I can't afford powdercoat, I'm thinking the Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy would be the most durable paint... or maybe the Hammered black I did the rear shocks, battery tray, and peg mounts in, lord knows that stuff hides a world of sins!
Any input?

 

[Testarossa]

First let me say that you are making good progress. Your seller will be stunned when he sees the transformation of the rusty hulk that he sold you.

You going all out with wire wheels, fat front tire, and drum brakes all around?

I do like the first bike pictured "God Speed," very clean lines. I'm a less is more kind of guy for the most part and the simple, minimal appearance of that bike appeals to me. Check out this blog for some more inspiration: http://www.pipeburn.com/ They seem to run the gamut of custom bikes there.

As for your fork legs, I would stay away from the hammered paint for one reason. All those "fish eyes" will tend to entrap bug guts and that will be the demise of your paint IMO. Might I suggest that you look into GunKote. It will fall in between powder coat and regular paint on price. It is a coating that needs to be baked on, but when cured, it's hard as nails. Just make sure that mamasan isn't home when you do your betty crocker routine in her oven. Here's the link for the GunKote if you're interested: http://www.kgcoatings.com/protective-coatings/2400-series-gun-kote/

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thanks Testarossa!
No, I am not going to change to spokes and drums just seems they are on the bratstyle bikes . It's hard to find pics of a GS, those guys seem love their SR400 Yamaha's .
Thanks for the link on the GunKote, I agree the texture on the hammered look would seem to be a pain to keep clean.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Just make sure that mamasan isn't home when you do your betty crocker routine in her oven.

I just re-read you post and this part made me chuckle...
Here is two things in my past builds that got me in trouble. (not to mention the painted parts cureing in the bathroom)

Final cleaning of cylinder heads in the dishwasher...



and curing header paint in the oven.

 

[Testarossa]

Occasionally we must test limits to see where they are exactly at. Nice use of the dish washer!

 

[SVSooke]

Curing paint in the oven?Do that all the time.Almost every fastener on my bike's been in the oven.Lots of other stuff to.Pretty mch anything that fits now has a baked on finish.My wife's freinds and family are appalled.She knows why I do it so has no problem with it.Yeah I'm a lucky guy!
Edit:Like those covers to!

 

[Octane80]

I can't believe I hadn't thought of the dishwasher before! Bravo on the creativity! With as much as I hear friends and colleagues upset about the laws their significant others make banning such ingenuity I also feel very lucky to have a significant which puts up with "crossover functionality".

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Today I finished the scuffing of the primer on the frame! All I need now is another good day of decent temps and low humidity and I will be ready to spray the metalic charcoal I picked up.
I wanted to get the engine lower resealed ASAP so I bolted up the polished oil pan with a new gasket. Then masked it off and got the bottom of the engine cases painted with Dupicolors Engine paint. Their color #1650 is soooo close to cast aluminum. That is what I used on my Goldwing's engine you can see here...



And here it is with the polished pieces installed so you can see the contrast the two have together. Hope to get the same results on the GS

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

"...and the frame was hung from the rafters with care,
In hopes that warm dry weather soon would be there."

Some times it pays to listen to the Weather Man! Yesterday I hung the frame and blew it all off while wipeing it down, then today just as promised 70 when I got off work. I came home and shot the Charcoal Grey. 4 coats with the last one so heavy to avoid dry spray I though it might sag, but it turned out nice and glossy from all angles , or so what I could see in the shop lighting.





Couple of painting tips to share to get better results from a spray can, put the paint can in a sink of warm water for about 10-15 minutes before painting, shake well and keep shaking thoughout the job, hit the underside first then paint top to bottom as overspray sinks, and never totally use the can, the last little bit will sputter as the tube inside comes exposed.
In person it is much darker but My cell pics brightened it up in the low light conditions. So once it cures I will take it out in the sunshine for better pics with the good camera.