• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

New to forum please help me :)

  • Thread starter Thread starter smokydog
  • Start date Start date
Holy....!!! That's a heck of list that the PO left you to deal with. And pretty crappy ethics as well, since somebody obviously went to a fair amount of trouble to obscure the bikes issues (heavy gear oil?, silicone to secure the drain plug!, BAH!).

Well, the only thing to do is fix it up. I'm not much of a mechanic, but it sounds like you are and the guru's here can help ya do pretty much anything, so it all comes down to how much time and effort you're OK with on the wrenching side. You got some issues, but I'll bet there are answers to all of them. :)

Welcome and best of luck!

PS: My bike was unrideable when I first got it and the folks here are 100% responsbile for guiding me through the process that got it back on the road. :)
 
Went to change the oil to 20w50 today, boy did I find out why I got this bike cheap lol. Here is what I found :

Both upper motor mount bolts are completely stripped out :( So bad you cant get them out I am guessing because the threads are knurled with magnesium :(

The previous owner put heavy gear oil in the engine to make it quit leaking enough to sell it that cant of been good on the inards :(

the studs on the oil filter housing are all stripped the guy loctited the nuts on :(

Both lower motor mount bolts to the engine missing and assumed the threads are stripped out :(

the oil drain plugged is stripped out and was siliconed in :(

I am guessing the guy really liked his air rachet and liked the way it stipped everything out , lol might as well laugh as cry :)

I cannot sell this bike to anyone when just changing the oil I find this much wrong :( So I have decided to keep it and just drive it back and forth to work.

I have two questions please you guys have been so helpful and I really do appreciate every bit of it.

Questions:

1. I will replace the two bottom motor mount bolts and loctite them in since I am sure threads are gone but a bolt loctited in is better than no bolt but I wonder if it is safe to ride with all 4 bolts stripped out, Its probably been going a long time that way and the pressure is side to side on the bolts so am I right in assuming it will probably be ok to ride?

2. The engine says it holds 3500ml of oil that is almost 4 quarts right? wow never expected it to hold that much.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get, Jerry
New to the party here Jerry, but all those stripped out areas should be able to be either fixed or replaced. Sounds like the seller was not only an idiot, but also very dishonest. Gear oil in the engine!? Yikes! I would put fresh oil in, run if for a couple days, then change it again. Keep doing that until no more gear oil comes out...if you can even tell.

As others have said, these old bikes are practically bullet proof. The proof is in how yours is still running ok after the abuse it has received. Get yourself a Clymer's manual and take care of those leaks. It's not difficult. I took my first 1000G top end down when I was in my early 30's and not much experience. It all came out ok. Just remember to put the locating dowels back in under the cylinder base when reassembling. Don't ask me why I say that. :( And, also don't forget to replace the oval orings on the corners of the cylinder base along with the paper gasket. I forgot those and it still leaked. Had to tear down again. Trickiest part for me was getting the cylinders back over the piston rings. I didn't have a ring compressor and did it with a hose clamp. Tricky, but worked.

Yes, the guys at the Suzuki shop are a bunch of turds. Don't listen to them. They just do not want to mess with it, and are trying to sway you into buying something new from them. They are all trained on working on newer bikes and obviously don't have the common sense to stop and think logically and simply about things. And that's all you have to do to be able to work on these old bikes. It's all laid out in a logical manner in the Clymer's manual for you to follow. If you are a decent mechanic, you should have no problem. I was able to work on mine when I was no more than a young, self-taught shade-tree mechanic, which I pretty much still am. But I've gotten a lot of help from this forum. It just appears overwhelming at this point because you haven't gotten into it yet. Get into it and see for yourself how easy it is. Good luck.
 
Hi,

I'm happy that you've decided to keep and fix your bike. It sounds like you have quite a laundry list. But once you taken care of all these piddly little inconveniences and are caught up with all the regular maintenance, you will have a safe, reliable motorcycle.

Both upper motor mount bolts are completely stripped out :( So bad you cant get them out I am guessing because the threads are knurled with magnesium :(

You should still be able to get replacement engine mount bolts and nuts from any online Suzuki OEM vendor (they almost always have better prices that ordering through a local dealer). I've had to replace one of my engine mount bolts. The PO cross-threaded one and I didn't find out until I had to remove my case guards when replacing my stator. I had to hammer out the old bolt.

The previous owner put heavy gear oil in the engine to make it quit leaking enough to sell it that cant of been good on the inards :(
Well that's a low down dirty trick. But gaskets and seals can be replaced. Sometimes the trickiest part is figuring out which ones. These engines are tough so I wouldn't worry too much.

the studs on the oil filter housing are all stripped the guy loctited the nuts on :(
This is a common occurrence. You can buy generic studs and acorn nuts at your local hardware store (see the Engine Odds and Ends section of my little website) or just do what I did and order extra OEM studs and nuts from your favorite online Suzuki vendor.

Both lower motor mount bolts to the engine missing and assumed the threads are stripped out :(
Drat. Just order up some replacements. I seem to recall that I paid about $10 for one of the front engine bolts on my bike. But it fits, it works, and I don't have to worry about it.

the oil drain plugged is stripped out and was siliconed in :(
Another common problem usually caused by the PO. A good fix is to just buy an oversized, self-tapping oil drain plug and ratchet it in. Make sure to remove any shavings that might get cut from the slightly larger diameter.

Questions:

1. I will replace the two bottom motor mount bolts and loctite them in since I am sure threads are gone but a bolt loctited in is better than no bolt but I wonder if it is safe to ride with all 4 bolts stripped out, Its probably been going a long time that way and the pressure is side to side on the bolts so am I right in assuming it will probably be ok to ride?
You want to ride with nuts missing from the engine mount bolts? I can't recommend that. If you want to take a chance, keep an eye on them, and take it easy as you're riding around, it's up to you. I wouldn't ride it much and I'd take it very easy. Replace them ASAP.

2. The engine says it holds 3500ml of oil that is almost 4 quarts right? wow never expected it to hold that much.
The number on the crankcase is the crankcase capacity. When you change the oil filter you should add another 600ml or so to that number. So you're talking right at 4 quarts for the complete oil change. I usually put in about 3.5 quarts, then run the engine for a couple of minutes, shut it off, then check the level in the sight glass after a minute or two and adjust (add more) as necessary. Use diesel engine oil (i.e. Rotella-T 15w40) for your bike. It's much better than automotive oil and much cheaper than motorcycle-specific oil.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
Hi Jerry, great to hear you keeping the bike :clap:, I promise you, you will fall in love with it, the GS series was arguably among the finest UJM's built.
Not so good that the PO left you a bunch of surprises,:mad: but not all doom and gloom, again, all od them should be a minor inconvienience for a man of your skills.
Lets have a quick look see;

The previous owner put heavy gear oil in the engine to make it quit leaking enough to sell it that cant of been good on the inards :(
The fact that it is still running and not making strange noises tells me you probably don't have any major damage inside.
The GS series motors were one of the most grossly over engineered, bullet proof lumps of aluminuim to be shoved between two wheels, you couldn't break them if you tried.
They, except for a very few (only the 750 four valve, I think) have roller bearing crank shafts and a low pressure oiling system, so they rely on splash, more than pressure to keep the internals lubed.
Flush and replace, you should be fine.

the studs on the oil filter housing are all stripped the guy loctited the nuts on :(
Quite common on these motors, remove, check the threads in the case, replace, they are just a couple of bucks at Suzuki, secure with ggod strong locktite, tap to the next biggest size if you have to and replace with next biggest studs and nuts, lots of folks here, been there, done that


Both upper motor mount bolts are completely stripped out :( So bad you cant get them out I am guessing because the threads are knurled with magnesium :(

Both lower motor mount bolts to the engine missing and assumed the threads are stripped out :(
It has been years since I have owned a GSX (as all 4 valves were designated here, on this side of the pond)
But as I recall, none of the engine mounting bolts actually fasten into the actuall engine cases, they are all through bolts with a nut on the other side, if it is like the 2 valve GS' the front lower short bolts, thread into a teardrop shaped thingymabob that fits between the external ribs of the engine case, underneath.
So your cases should be fine.

the oil drain plugged is stripped out and was siliconed in :(
Again, plenty folk here have had to deal with that problem, a helicoil or insert should sort it out.
Alternativly, you get an oversize, generic plug from your local auto spares shop that cuts its own threads, fr that very job.
I am sure those that have been through it will chip in here with good advice for you.


1. I will replace the two bottom motor mount bolts and loctite them in since I am sure threads are gone but a bolt loctited in is better than no bolt but I wonder if it is safe to ride with all 4 bolts stripped out, Its probably been going a long time that way and the pressure is side to side on the bolts so am I right in assuming it will probably be ok to ride?
I have ridden my 1000G with the engine held in by not much more than will power, :o, I think at one stage I had 2 bolts holding it in.
But, yeah, it ain't too clever, so I would not suggest it, but see my remark above.

2. The engine says it holds 3500ml of oil that is almost 4 quarts right? wow never expected it to hold that much.
Yep, correct, engine and tranny share the same oil.
Seems, worst case senario, it is going to cost you a few extra $ for nuts and studs and fresh oil and filter.................could have been a lot worse.
Keep us updated, we are here to help wherever we can.

Edit: I see Basscliff beat me to it.......he is scary. :eek:
 
Last edited:
The only way you'll learn to do anything, is when it needs to be fixed!

These bikes are the easiest thing on 2 wheels to wrench.

If those so called "mechanics" are afraid of a 30 year old bike.....they ARENT a real mechanic....period.
They're just ****ing scumbags, trying to take you for a ride up Green mountain!
 
I don't think it is the mechanics per se, more the shop they work for.
The billable hours just don't add up on an old bike.
A relativly small job could run into the price of the bike without too much trouble, does not make economic sense to spend $800 on a $1000 bike and a days work could easy cost you $800.
But an owner of a mega thousands of dollar Ducati will have no problem dropping $800 on a sevice on his spaghetti.
 
you guys are awesome

you guys are awesome

To Basscliff and flyboy and all who have helped me so far, thank you so much.

I just turned 50 and am starting to doubt my skills, lol. I shouldnt though, I worked on the bike all day and got almost everything fixed !!

I helicoiled the motor mount bolts, put new studs in for the oil filter housing and changed the oil and guess what, I found the major leak !!!!!

OMG when I went to put the new oil filter in I noticed something wrong, you wont believe it, the idiot made a homemade o ring for the oil filter cover that was too small a diameter to seal !! And the splice was sad at best, lol. Luckily, my local shop had the oring in stock, they say it is common for it to go bad so they keep a couple around.

I still have a small leak and I am almost positive it is where the tach cable goes in. I am so happy, I rode 100 miles today and it only leaked slightly and NO HOT OIL ON MY LEG :D

I really credit you guys for me getting off my butt and tearing into this bike and I could not have had more fun today.

These things really must be bulletproof if you can run 80w gear oil in one for god knows how long with no apparent damage. The engine sounds fine and I wonder why it cranks much faster when I start it cold, lol..

I left the crash bars off, they interfere with my size 17 EEEE boots, lol and I must say it looks MUCH better with them off.

Since I decided to keep the bike I have a question, I will post it under the section looking for parts too but I need a right side cover. If anyone has one to sell or knows where to get one I would appreciate it. Also where is the best place to get a seatcover for a 1980 GS750E ? I see them on Ebay but there are a few and I would like to get a heads up on which one is the best for the money.

You guys rock, thanks so much, I LOVE THIS BIKE, lol. You barely touch the starter and it starts cold or hot:p

Thanks again, Jerry

Proud owner of a 1980 GS750E
 
Hi,

Yes, check the Parts for Sale and post in the Parts Wanted sections for the side cover. Those type of body parts are getting more scarce but sometimes you get lucky. I picked up a couple off Ebay for not much more that $30 each. Suzuki still sells a few new OEM side covers for a few models but you usually have to paint them, and they're expensive. However, I don't think the 750E is one of those models. But you can check the dealer parts fiches and see.

Are your seat pan and foam still good? I got a SaddleSkins (Travelcade) replacement cover for my seat and it worked out great. There are other options, like your local upholstery shop, or you can send your seat to a place like Sargent to get redone (but that's $$$). Have a look at the Seat Cover Replacement guide on my little website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Good on you :clap::clap::clap::clap: now that is the kind of post we like to see, another one saved.
May you have many, many happy miles riding her.
There is a whole thread here on seat covers, seems Pit Replica are a good crowd to get one from, they have an ebay shop as well, and as I remember, they are not too pricey and thier quality is good, even comes with the OEM embossing in the cover as well.
Find them here.
 
:clap:Woot and Congrats!:clap:

Glad to hear that your ride and your attitude are on the upswing. :) Sounds like you're gettin' things all sorted out in short order.

Well done!


And hats off to all those with the experience and know how that have provided the guidance and encouragement. There is no better team then that of TheGSResources membership. :clap:
 
Hi,


I've never seen or tried one of those seat covers. My Travelcade cover worked out really well but was twice as much money. It has good material, good stitching, and a little layer of foam under the top to smooth out any irregularities in your seat foam. It's been on my bike for four years now and is holding up great.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Found oil leak need help please

Found oil leak need help please

Hi all :)

I did the talcum powder trick you all told me about and found my oil leak. It is right above the exhaust port but I cant tell if its from the gasket or a crack in the head :( Is this a common place for the GS750E to leak from the gasket or would it be more likely a cracked head? If it is a crack in the head can they be repaired? If not I will have to sell the bike because I have looked all over the web and there is a post here for someone looking for the same head on craigslist. I dont want to spend the money on a gasket set and do all the work just to find out it cant be fixed.

I know you cant tell me whats up without seeing it but any input or probable causes for a leak right above the exhaust port would be appreciated.

I found this just posted on craigslist real close to my house I am going to buy it if I cant fix this bike:

http://stjoseph.craigslist.org/mcy/2422416798.html

Thanks , Jerry
 
Noooooooo!!!!!!! It's an LLLLLL!!!! They suck big time!!!!! Fix your oil leaks again, it's either the tach drive or the valve cover gasket, maybe the cam chain tensioner. They are ALL VERY EASY to fix, and the oil migrates all over the place so you can't see where it's leaking.
 
this thread is pretty long so I did not go although it buts sounds like the last discovery is that the oil leak is high above the exhaust ports.

You should knwo that there are two O-rings on the inside of the valve cover on the two front inner head bolts. The should be changed. Do a search.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=914628&highlight=o-rings+head+bolt#post914628

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=752146&highlight=o-rings+head+bolt#post752146

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=775333&highlight=o-rings+head+bolt#post775333
 
Last edited:
Why not a "L" ?

Why not a "L" ?

Noooooooo!!!!!!! It's an LLLLLL!!!! They suck big time!!!!! Fix your oil leaks again, it's either the tach drive or the valve cover gasket, maybe the cam chain tensioner.

Why are L's no good?

Thanks, Jerry
 
Here we go again.
Some folks like the tiny gas tank, poor steering and low seating position, and the tinny fart can exhaust. Some even like the silly chrome and the goofy uncomfortable seat. But we can't say anything bad about the bikes, they are easily offended and get all butt hurt if you don't gush all over their pretty pictures.

L's make great cafe racers, bobbers, engine stands, choppers, planter boxes and mailboxes, and even half decent parts bikes if all you need are engine parts.
 
L's are fine if you like them. And I'm not offended. In fact, I prefer my G any day of the week.

But don't give up yet on your oil leak. Take the valve cover off and do a close-up inspection of the head. I'll bet it's either the valve cover gasket or the tach cable. There is a tutorial on basscliff's site for sealing up the tach cable where it mounts to the head. It's easy as can be. Oh, and the cam chain tensioner is on the intake side of the head, so it's not that. :cool:

When you replace the valve cover gasket, be sure to get every single bit of old gasket material off of both surfaces. Be careful not to score either surface. Some have used goo gone to soften it up. I have used paint stripper which works good, but you have to be very careful not to get it on the outside of the engine or it will strip the paint off...obviously. Before putting the new gasket on, be sure the check the rubber half-moon seals (4 of them) on each end of the cams. Make sure then are still pliable. If not, buy more. They don't cost that much. You can get them at most parts dealers like bikebandit for instance. When installing, put some black rtv gasket sealer under the curved surface of the half-moons. Don't put it anywhere else. Then, when putting the paper valve cover gasket on, smear a thin layer of some kind of grease, like axle grease, on both sides of the gasket. It will seal up just fine, and when you want to get in there to do a valve adjustment (which you should do when you are in there) the gasket should come right off without sticking. Good luck and hang in there...you're almost there.:clap:
 
Back
Top