New to me GS1000 Street/Strip..LONGGGG

[jkrum87]

Hello everyone. This is my new very old "drag" bike. it is a 1980 gs1000 2v motor. Stretched, raked, lowered, pistons cams head work, 190 rear tire, msd, dyna ignition, vance & hines, etc. I picked it up pretty cheap with hopes of turning her into something pretty sweet. Turns out it dropped a valve and put a huge whole in one of the pistons. I have lined up a 1979 gs1000 and a 1981 gsx1100 project bikes. both similar in price, one with title one without. 1100 has no title but only 2500 miles. 1000 runs but has 40k. my question is how difficult will it be to bolt up the 1100 motor? from what i understand 2 mounts will need to be customized, and the headers will work. but what about the electrical system? also i assume the 1100 4v will be a better buy for racing then the 1000 no? i have searched around for the past couple days but haven't had a whole lot of luck finding the exact info im looking for. these bikes are older then me so im sure someone out there has done this swap. i just need to find them and pick there brain for a bit lol...any way enjoy the pics, i know i do!!

 

[jkrum87]

cleaned up a litle bit. needs some powder coating over the winter, once i get her running

 

[jkrum87]

sorry new here and having trouble loading more then one pic.

 

[BigD_83]

View attachment 42142sorry new here and having trouble loading more then one pic.

A common problem. You need to use a webhost like Photobucket, and you can upload links for 10 pics per post rather than inserting images via the tab at the top.

 

[trippivot]

decide how fast is good enough first?

decide how fast is good enough first?

I like your bike and the choice is yours what to do . I truly miss my "hemi" - I had a 1105 that ran mid 9's but it took a lot - A-LOT of special engine mods to get there.

My 16 valve is SOOO much faster - front 2 mounts - change - and beef up your frame . all the wiring same-- same -

No matter what you'll never be the fastest....
the 1000 is Vintage power cool as a supercharged flat head ford.... and you can win a lot of high~mid 10 second bracket races short stroke hemi that will shake the windows.

the 1100 tscc 16 valve is the next level of power - starting in the high 11's and potentially get you in the 6's standard issue go fast machine from the box.


stock crank 2 valve 1000 can handle up to 140 HP and live for years. the 1100 can go past 160 before special parts needed.

 

[jkrum87]

I like your bike and the choice is yours what to do . I truly miss my "hemi" - I had a 1105 that ran mid 9's but it took a lot - A-LOT of special engine mods to get there.

My 16 valve is SOOO much faster - front 2 mounts - change - and beef up your frame . all the wiring same-- same -

No matter what you'll never be the fastest....
the 1000 is Vintage power cool as a supercharged flat head ford.... and you can win a lot of high~mid 10 second bracket races short stroke hemi that will shake the windows.

the 1100 tscc 16 valve is the next level of power - starting in the high 11's and potentially get you in the 6's standard issue go fast machine from the box.


stock crank 2 valve 1000 can handle up to 140 HP and live for years. the 1100 can go past 160 before special parts needed.

thank you for the complement, i like her a little more each day lol. you are the person i was looking for and this was exactly what i wanted to hear. its basically just as easy to swap in the 1100 as it would be to swap in another 1000. not to mention the 1100 is better. I just want to have some fun not looking to be the fastest just some fun on a budget. the 1000 i have now does have head work and web cams, higher comp pistons etc. but its blown up. looks like the stock 1100 motor will be my new starting point.
thank you again for the help. might be hearing from me again down the line.

 

[jkrum87]

just noticed the how fast is good enough. i would like to be in the 9s. granted its going to take some seat time to get used to the bike and what not, but i think that will be doable with a stock motor and my platform? maybe a little shot? what would it take to hit mid-high 8s but still be "street-able"? not sure if that possible with these motors.

 

[rapidray]

Anything is possible with these 16 valve motors. If you are serious, call me at 714-356.784five & I will help you.
Ray.

 

[Guest]

just noticed the how fast is good enough. i would like to be in the 9s. granted its going to take some seat time to get used to the bike and what not, but i think that will be doable with a stock motor and my platform? maybe a little shot? what would it take to hit mid-high 8s but still be "street-able"? not sure if that possible with these motors.

A really fat wallet.
the 1200 Bandit motor would be a better choice if your going to change the motor. It is 75 lbs lighter but if you want to stay with a GS type motor then go with a 1150 motor. High 9's is easy on a no bar bike but high 8's is a different story. How fast or quick you go depends on how fat your wallet is.

 

[Guest]

http://s809.photobucket.com/user/nsxwish/media/brackets_4-26-14_sat_081_copy.jpg.html

Trip and I put this together with my motor and a frame from Minnesota. 1327 with 38's. 10.5 compression and warmer cams. This bike runs 9.30's at 140. Base engine is a 1100 with $7000.00 plus invested. This will give you an idea what it takes to get into the low 9's. At least the way I did it... I used to run this motor in a street frame and best was 10.50's.
Curt

 

[trippivot]

engine power only gets you so much.

engine power only gets you so much.

This is a great little chassis. netted a full 1.2 seconds faster with no other changes. 1327 cc and it is light

easiest way for your 1000 to get under the 10's is a nitrous kit and a dyna 2000 - clean and easy - if used properly. or there are other more tedious options.

 

[jkrum87]

I picked up a 1981 gs1100x today and I swapped the motor over to my 1000. a couple of the mounts are giving me trouble which i already knew would happen. but there is more mounts giving me trouble then i suspected. i feel if i grind of the bottom left side mount bracket from the frame it might fit a little better. I also noticed that the electrical system that hooks up by the sprocket is different on the 1100 so i may need to carry over the whole wire harness and electrical system. i posted a picture of what im talking about. they are different sized so i can just swap them, and im not sure what they are exactly but i know they go to the speedo/tach.

after i get it running properly, i will be looking more into a wet nitrous system. hard to find any threads on what a stock 1100 can handle. im sure plenty of people have done this in the past 35 years. i read that the dyna 2000 can retard timing automatically so thats good. maybe ill run into someone on here selling a kit sometime this winter.

thats looks like a fun little toy.. is that your current bike?

 

[jkrum87]

This is a great little chassis. netted a full 1.2 seconds faster with no other changes. 1327 cc and it is light

easiest way for your 1000 to get under the 10's is a nitrous kit and a dyna 2000 - clean and easy - if used properly. or there are other more tedious options.

I like your style! from the bikes to the toy haulers!! and i want that clutch!! couple sexy front wheels in there too.

 

[Guest]

The reason I like the Bandit 1200/89-90 GSXR1100 motor is that it is very easy to make the motor make some good power and the weight savings and you can buy them for around $500
This 98 Bandit 1200 will run high 9.30's with no bar and you can ride it to the track. It has a stock bottom end with a 1216 flat top pistons and a Nicely ported head o/s valves, bigger cams, carbs and a pipe for the motor mods.
Like others have said chassis set up makes a huge difference also. I have about $7000 into her including the cost of the bike.



z

 

[jkrum87]

View attachment 42267The reason I like the Bandit 1200/89-90 GSXR1100 motor is that it is very easy to make the motor make some good power and the weight savings and you can buy them for around $500
This 98 Bandit 1200 will run high 9.30's with no bar and you can ride it to the track. It has a stock bottom end with a 1216 flat top pistons and a Nicely ported head o/s valves, bigger cams, carbs and a pipe for the motor mods.
Like others have said chassis set up makes a huge difference also. I have about $7000 into her including the cost of the bike.



z

nice bike! you ran 9.30s with her or? I am interested in doing that swap and have read up a little on it. seems like it would bolt into my gs1000 frame fairly easily. I scored a gs1100 for 300 bucks so i ended up swapping that motor in this weekend. still have to button up some things but its coming alone nicely.

This is my first drag bike but im pretty sure its a decent chassis. about 71 inches long from center of the front hub to center of the rear. raked and stretched. with a 190 rear tire but thinking of running a 180 shinko hook up. any other suggestions for the chassis? besides that its just get her running/driving/looking a little better and hopefully a little silly gas come spring time.

 

[trippivot]

71" is a good length to be at. used to be rules about 68" maximum - now those are slowly changing. It is promising you are not intimidated by changing the front mounts. -And now is the time to brace - or tie together the rear top engine mounts to both sides of the frame. easy and it helps, same thing at the the shock towers - or where the struts meet the frame. Another good idea is Cutting the seat rails and lowering them - option for lower center of gravity - foot peg mountings back on the swing arm - just suggestions. not streetable but lower it to 2" ground clearance.

180 shinko is a good tire 190 and 200 seem to buckle under a little when you go down to 18~20 PSI

bandit/gsxr-- VS -- GS- engine in a dragbike context? my analysis in 2 words -- fragile VS durable - please don't get wrong idea - I like to promote a positive discussion - but been told I sound negative a lot.

hmmm. OK the legendary 1127cc oil boiler is a very powerful engine . It has ultra sensitive babbit bearings on the rods and mains - you must have the whole variety of the bearing sizes kits both rods and mains to build. not fun and this is where so many mistakes happen. 1 time use stretch rod bolts- yuck. it is a huge undertaking to re-do the bottom end. This engine also needs a clutch/clutch basket upgrade - top end oiling hurts lower end unless you convert to a dry sump. Must have the threaded adjuster type head - shim spitting sucks. Finally , any idea how much clutch friction material flows throughout the oiling system in a drag racing engine? -10 passes and ride it home? you trust FRAM that much? would be cooler to have a dry clutch and keep that junk out of the plain bearings.

the magic of the GS/KZ/XLH/FX drag engines is the roller bearing crankshaft. Elite design that is cost prohibitive - stronger - durable - takes more abuse - withstands neglect , has a open super hard rollers on super hard races- it is rock crusher strong! ,,, did I mention you can run it at redline with dirty oil - for decades? The GS 1100/1150 is an overbuilt product - we double and then some increase the output and they still live a lot of racing years on stock connecting rods. impressive .
bottom end repair big difference - top end repair is identical.

Not steady facts, just my opinion - period. run what makes you happy , run what you can afford , run whatever you can get your hands on. Just don't run it all out on the street.

nitrous? yeah, there is a 12 step group for that - lol no really holler out we can help you avoid melting spark plugs.

 

[Guest]

I have not had one bearing failure on a Bandit motor. Babbit bearing don't scare me and the Bandits are famous for going over 100,000 miles. Yes the clutch is week but it is a cheep fix. The Bandit in the photo was built in 2007 and had 25,000 miles the bottom end is completely stock and original. I did put a 1992 GSXR1100 clutch basket with the 89 GSXR1100 pressure plate, inner hub, fibers and steals. The tranny has not even been under cut. I also rode it to Orlando for an over nite trip with the wife on the back. The only thing I have done to it since I built it was to rering the pistons with a fresh bore and install a .400 lift intake cam and the bigger 41 Keihins carbs and a longer swingarm. Never had a bearing issue. But I change my oil a lot.

 

[trippivot]

my stock 1997 1200 bandit S is jealous - yours is very nicely modified.. mine would look good like that too.

babbit bearing set up takes skill and talent and patience and - you are right it is nothing to fear except the time and energy to fix what went wrong.

clean hi-pressure oil is the golden key.

 

[Guest]

Trip,
Oh yea it is very time consuming to make sure they are right. But I love doing it. I just plain love working on bikes. Almost as much if not more than riding them.
That Bandit is not mine anymore I gave it to my son. He is the one that ran the 9.38 on it. With an experienced rider or more seat time for him I am sure the maroon monster would run in the 9.20's. I have an 02 1340cc Bandit that I have been collecting parts for that I am building for myself. And I have an 01 Bandit also that could be made whole.
But I still love my 84&85 GS1150's the best.

 

[jkrum87]

the magic of the GS/KZ/XLH/FX drag engines is the roller bearing crankshaft. Elite design that is cost prohibitive - stronger - durable - takes more abuse - withstands neglect , has a open super hard rollers on super hard races- it is rock crusher strong! ,,, did I mention you can run it at redline with dirty oil - for decades? The GS 1100/1150 is an overbuilt product - we double and then some increase the output and they still live a lot of racing years on stock connecting rods. impressive .
bottom end repair big difference - top end repair is identical.

Not steady facts, just my opinion - period. run what makes you happy , run what you can afford , run whatever you can get your hands on. Just don't run it all out on the street.

nitrous? yeah, there is a 12 step group for that - lol no really holler out we can help you avoid melting spark plugs.

There is so much knowledge here it can be overwhelming at times but I like to learn so this is good. I swapped the gs1100 motor into my gs1000 frame this weekend and just have a few small things to take care of. runs and drives tho.

next step. nitrous. how much is to much? how much do i start with and how much has safely been used on a stock motor.