Nitrous

[lhanscom]

Tonight I decided to try and get my nitrous solinoid to work, which I successfully did. So I decided to charge the system, and see if I had created any leaks in the plumbing. Well I guess the steel braid had corroded so when I put it under pressure it went POP!. So now I don't have the hose that goes from the tank to the solenoid, and I have no idea where to get one of these things. How much pressure does the line need to take? Thanks.

 

[RacingJake]

Take a look at a Jeggs or Summit catalog, they have all types of different size lines for nitrous with fittings too.

Butt if it was me I'd try a garden hose... wait that won't work it's to long and big, oh well I guess you should use SS lines instead.

One time I tried to pull a stuck car and all we could find was some garden hose. It did'nt work but that hose sure can stretch before it breaks.

 

[Anonymous]

Do it right the first time around, the pressure is whatever the cylinder is pumped up to plus a safety factor.

http://www.brockracing.com/media/BrockRock750.wmv

Steve

 

[RacingJake]

Maybe motorcycle stainless steel brake line might work. They have small fitting too, just try to find out the burst rating of the line. Anything over 5000 PSI will work.

 

[cbxchris]

Better make sure that fuel solenoid is working and letting fuel to the fuel jet also(and the pump is running).....things melt quickly when lean on nitrous. I used to have a 5 gallon bucket full of pistons to prove it. How big of jets are you running and what combo. Rule of thumb is 4 sizes bigger on fuel than nitrous.

 

[Richie]

are you sure about thet 4 sizes bigger on fuel than nitrous? cause that sounds like it would run too rich, we run the NX jets, and the nitrous is 4 sizes bigger than the fuel, and never had a problem getting that little motor to run 7.50's? later, Richie[/quote]

 

[Hoomgar]

Luke, wouldn't you be best off to consult with Skip on this one?
I am thinking that would be the source for the best advice for that bike.


Or was that part of the deal?

 

[lhanscom]

I'm not sure what the jetting is, but I'm assuming it's right as Skip used it quite a bit a the track over the years. Fuel pump and solenoid is working properly. I found the lines at a place that makes high preasure lines locally. So it should be working again soon. Thanks for the help.

 

[Paul]

are you sure about thet 4 sizes bigger on fuel than nitrous? cause that sounds like it would run too rich, we run the NX jets, and the nitrous is 4 sizes bigger than the fuel, and never had a problem getting that little motor to run 7.50's? later, Richie

[/quote]

If you were running more nitrous than fuel you wouldn't only have a bucket of pistons - there would be heads & barrels in there as well.
Chris is right, always run larger fuel jets than nitrous.
Don't forget nitrous is just a way of getting more oxygen into the combustion chamber safely, so you can burn more fuel.
Also try to wire your solenoids so that the N2O cant activate unless the fuel solenoid is already open. That will save a motor if the fuel solenoid fails.

 

[cbxchris]

On NOS jets yes 4 sizes bigger. A good combo on that with something like skip has(had) would be 16/20 or the most common 18/22. Anything smaller and its very easy to clog a fuel/nitrous jet. Those are mild good starter combo`s. I`m sorry I have no experience with NX jetting sizes but would assume they are close to the same. Remember more heat means more HP. Its just how close to melting do you want to get. With a properly jetted carb those combo`s above will not hurt anything.

 

[RacingJake]

OK then how much HP are we talking about when using 16/20 jets as compared to 18/22.

 

[Richie]

NX 22-26 jets are 100 HP, thats the only ones i remember, but i think NX 18-24 or 18-22 are 80 hp? i checked last night the nitrous is 26 and the fuel is 22? have not melted a piston yet in 4 years of running that combo, broke a rod, and trashed a couple cylinder heads, who knows maybe we were just lucky? LOL later, Richie

 

[lecroy]

NX 22-26 jets are 100 HP, thats the only ones i remember, but i think NX 18-24 or 18-22 are 80 hp?

Last time I bought some parts they started talking that HP lingo to me. I ask them if I put that 200 HP setup on my Briggs lawn mower if it was really going to make that much power. The guy paused on the other end and I asked him to just get me the flow rates for the valves I was looking at. Does anyone know where they come up with these numbers? Is there a standard test setup that the industry is using? Or was the HP rating some MBAs idea??

 

[skip]

luke,
its been a while but im pretty sure the fuel jets are 22.5 and the nitrous are 20 or 18. I did not use the nitrous after the rebuild so double check and make sure the larger jets (22.5 I think ) are tied to the the fuel pump. Although Im sure they are. Let me know what you think when you get it going. Dont be surprised if you drive through the cluch ( slipping) in fourth or fith. That happened to me and I put new plates and springs in and it cured it, but that was over 8000 miles ago (maybe more I cant remember what year I replaced them. I think it was 1998) dont forget to dial up the steering stabilizer before you spray the bike , it tends to wobble a little if you leave it set on the soft setting...................................... are you having fun with the electric shifter?

 

[lhanscom]

The electric shifter is awesome, though I'm discovering that I may need to make it a tad more sensitive, when I drive it real hard some times it doesn't want to shift without backing off a bit. I got the new line today, from a local hydrolics place. So I just need to hook it up and I'll be good to go. If I drive thru the clutch, I'll be tempted to go to a lockup style clutch, but we shall see.

 

[skip]

The electric shifter is awesome, though I'm discovering that I may need to make it a tad more sensitive, when I drive it real hard some times it doesn't want to shift without backing off a bit. I got the new line today, from a local hydrolics place. So I just need to hook it up and I'll be good to go. If I drive thru the clutch, I'll be tempted to go to a lockup style clutch, but we shall see.

you are probably making contact with your foot before you are ready to shift this will kill the coils early and make it hard to shift. try for fun switching the linkage arm on the nurled transmission shaft so the arm is down instead of up, this will make you shift with a 1 up 4 down pattern. it takes a little getting used to but you will shift faster stepping on the shifter compared to pulling up on it. I ran all 1/4's that way..............................................skip

 

[lhanscom]

I've been considering doing that, I always wanted to do that on Izzy, but couldn't with the way it was setup without major modifications. So I may do that now. We'll see how badly I can confuse myself. :roll: