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on and off and on and off... I'm a pro at taking carbs off and putting them back on

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ohioan
  • Start date Start date
Po' Boys

Po' Boys

Pull up "carb float bowl gaskets" on Amazon.com sometime. You can find a set of "Po Boy" needle valves sans seats and float bowl gaskets for as low as < $3 apiece. But then, there's the stupid shipping...
 
Well, a new needle valve seat and needle fixed the leaky carb!!! Yay!

Now, to get idle set and then do plug chops to get my needles in the right spot.
 
For those playing along at home with chain drive bikes, it's worth noting that it's much easier to get the carbs and airbox in and out of a shaftie. With a bit of practice, you can have the carbs in or out in under 10 minutes, easy.

Geez Brian, don't rub it into the chain brigade about the benefits of shafties. They're getting hard enough to find now, as it is!!.

Like you, takes me around 10 minutes to remove and around 15 to replace and set/adjust cables. And that's without the practice of umpteen removals for jetting trials after fitting those marvelous, monster power producing" PODS"!!:-\\\
 
I took it out for a spin last night. It has a definite flat spot at 1/4 throttle. It's really apparent in gears 1 through 3.

I'm going to do plug chops to see what cylinders are hanging on me and then adjust the needles accordingly.
 
Lessons learned so far,

1. Do things the correct, thorough way first.

Are the air box side covers sealed properly? properly oiled air filter? are the carb boots and air box boots old and shrunk which becomes apparent when you have to bottom out the clamps? is the snorkel still on the air box? any exhaust modifications?
 
I used foam tape on the airbox covers. The air filter is a K&N which I just cleaned, and will do again since fuel was leaking back. Carb boots were replaced not too long ago. and the snorkel is still on the box.

It has a v&h and DJ Stage 1 installed per instructions.

I just need to adjust the needles a bit I think.
 
The chain brigade has one shining beacon of light: the original GS750 airbox.
 
I plug chopped it. Right around 1/4 throttle there was a flat spot. I killed the engine and pulled the plugs, all 4 were white. So, I rode home and dropped the clip n the needles one notch. They were placed on the third from the top notch, i lowered it to forth to raise the needle and therefore richen the mixture.

I didn't get to ride it tonight as it got dark on me. I hope to be able to get a little test spin on it tomorrow.


The best part? I can remove the slides without pulling the carbs!!

hopefully no more on again off agains for me!
 
The chain brigade has one shining beacon of light: the original GS750 airbox.

That's an impressive looking, well faired 1000. Not sure what the significance is of your quote about the 750 airbox. They did fit the same box to the '79 850's though!!
 
The chain gang gets shafted by having hard-to-remove airboxes, except in the case of the original 750
 
13 times on my GS1100 to get the jetting right with a Vance & Hines pipe ,K&N filter & open air box. I had to build 1 set out of 3 because of ruined pilot jets & air screws though and 1 carb had an air passage blocked internally. Blast away !
 
Lowered the clip on the needles one notch. It helped a little, so I think I'm going to drop it another notch.

Will raising the needle effect my idle?
 
I think I need to go up a size on the pilot jet.

I lowered th clip another notch on the needles. (It is now in the second from bottom). I took it for a spin, about 12 miles. It was still giving me fits in the lower throttle range. On my way back, at about miles 8 all of the sudden it started acting like I lost 2 or 3 cylinders. It started spitting and sputtering. Finally it died on me at about 10mile mark. I sat there for a minute thinking. I turned the tank to prime, and tried to start it. Wouldn't start. I gave it some choke, it fired , and ran fine the rest of the way home. Once in the driveway I switched it back to normal. It ran fine in the driveway. Swo I decided to see how far I could get before it started acting up again. So I ran about 1/2-3/4 miles before it started up again. Switched it to prime and she ran fine home.. I didn't run hard, just 1/2 throttle at most.

I'm going to raise the clip on the needle back to the 3rd position and go with the next biggest pilot jet in my dj kit.
 
I think I need to go up a size on the pilot jet.

I lowered th clip another notch on the needles. (It is now in the second from bottom). I took it for a spin, about 12 miles. It was still giving me fits in the lower throttle range. On my way back, at about miles 8 all of the sudden it started acting like I lost 2 or 3 cylinders. It started spitting and sputtering. Finally it died on me at about 10mile mark. I sat there for a minute thinking. I turned the tank to prime, and tried to start it. Wouldn't start. I gave it some choke, it fired , and ran fine the rest of the way home. Once in the driveway I switched it back to normal. It ran fine in the driveway. Swo I decided to see how far I could get before it started acting up again. So I ran about 1/2-3/4 miles before it started up again. Switched it to prime and she ran fine home.. I didn't run hard, just 1/2 throttle at most.

I'm going to raise the clip on the needle back to the 3rd position and go with the next biggest pilot jet in my dj kit.

Your symptoms indicate that you're starving fuel to the carbs. Check that the vacuum line to your petcock isn't faulty/leaking air. Also check the condition of the petcock diaphragm. When you're using the prime position, you're not using the engine vacuum to open the fuel valve, so the carbs are getting adequate fuel on that setting.

Once you've sorted the fuel supply out, you'll need to start anew with your plug chop analysis.
 
Aright, I'll replace the petcock. I happen to have a spare new one laying around.
 
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