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gggGary
Guest
Not that it matters but my vote is bob the maxim and restore the GS!
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Guest
Guest
<<<So what are the possible negative outcomes if the car is running when jumping the bike>>>
I'd like to know the answer to this one as well.
I'd like to know the answer to this one as well.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Y'all haven't been reading, have you?
Your questions are posts #19 and #22 in this thread.
Go back and read #16.
Wait, I'll make it easy for you.
It's not the amp difference, it's the voltage.
The running car will be putting out voltage that is high enough that your bike thinks it needs to be regulated, so it tries. Usually fails miserably, because the car is just so much more capable at generating electricity, far beyond what your bike ever dreamed of.
When the car is not running, it's just another, LARGER 12-volt battery that won't run down as quickly.
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OK, so I didn't give any details, but they were not needed at the time. The r/r is designed to handle a certain amount of current while it does its job. The car can generate a LOT MORE current, the r/r just can't handle it and dies. I'm sure some of our electrical engineers can give you more details on just how they die, but the result is the same: you need a new r/r.
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suzu650
Guest
what's an r/r?
Steve
GS Whisperer
The r/r is the Rectifier/Regulator.
There are very few pieces in our basic charging systems. The current is generated by permanent magnets that are imbedded in the flywheel and pass over a series of windings around an iron core. These windings are called the "stator", they live under the cover on the left side of your engine. The current that is genereated is "Alternating Current" and has a voltage that increases with engine speed. The r/r is a combination device that will rectify the AC to DC (Direct Current) that still has a relatively high voltage, then will regulate it down to the 14 volts that will run the bike and charge the battery. The r/r has three input wires from the stator and two output wires that disappear to various parts of the wiring harness, but end up at the two terminals of the battery. To assure good connections, many of us re-route the r/r output wires directly to the battery, eliminating all the potential problems of dirty connections in the original harness.
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There are very few pieces in our basic charging systems. The current is generated by permanent magnets that are imbedded in the flywheel and pass over a series of windings around an iron core. These windings are called the "stator", they live under the cover on the left side of your engine. The current that is genereated is "Alternating Current" and has a voltage that increases with engine speed. The r/r is a combination device that will rectify the AC to DC (Direct Current) that still has a relatively high voltage, then will regulate it down to the 14 volts that will run the bike and charge the battery. The r/r has three input wires from the stator and two output wires that disappear to various parts of the wiring harness, but end up at the two terminals of the battery. To assure good connections, many of us re-route the r/r output wires directly to the battery, eliminating all the potential problems of dirty connections in the original harness.
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suzu650
Guest
Is there a write up for this or is it very simple to do?
also, I have been roaming around the site looking for bike and decided i want to do something like this
if I'm not mistaken, are the rear shocks on these bikes shorter? If so, how? are they different shocks or rebuilt somehow? Also, what bars are on the first bike? broomstick? about how long do you guys think?
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Guest
Guest
Y'all haven't been reading, have you?
Your questions are posts #19 and #22 in this thread.
Go back and read #16.
Wait, I'll make it easy for you..
I knew you were gonna say that..
Yeah I been reading(grouchy old man) but my point is I jump em all the time with the vehicle running with no problems at all.
Have you ever seen point #19 and #22 first hand or is it just something you read about?
Steve
GS Whisperer
Personal experience here. Had to jump my wife's bike while we were in Durango, Colorado several years ago. Used my Kawasaki Voyager as the donor. Didn't seem likely, as one bike's regulator should easily handle the output of another bike, but it definitely fried the r/r.
That was a very expensive r/r, too. Had to rent a U-Haul truck to get home, about $1200.
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gggGary
Guest
also, I have been roaming around the site looking for bike and decided i want to do something like this
if I'm not mistaken, are the rear shocks on these bikes shorter? If so, how? are they different shocks or rebuilt somehow? Also, what bars are on the first bike? broomstick? about how long do you guys think?[/QUOTE]
Good plan both those are nice looking machines. Even a LITTLE rear suspension is better than a hard tail. Nothing wrong with repurposing a shafty. Gotta have dual chrome gauges with no "dashboard"
if I'm not mistaken, are the rear shocks on these bikes shorter? If so, how? are they different shocks or rebuilt somehow? Also, what bars are on the first bike? broomstick? about how long do you guys think?[/QUOTE]
Good plan both those are nice looking machines. Even a LITTLE rear suspension is better than a hard tail. Nothing wrong with repurposing a shafty. Gotta have dual chrome gauges with no "dashboard"
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suzu650
Guest
picked it up today. starts fine, looks like it needs a little carb work though. hopefully just a cleaning
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Guest
Guest
Personal experience here. Had to jump my wife's bike while we were in Durango, Colorado several years ago. Used my Kawasaki Voyager as the donor. Didn't seem likely, as one bike's regulator should easily handle the output of another bike, but it definitely fried the r/r.
That was a very expensive r/r, too. Had to rent a U-Haul truck to get home, about $1200.
.
Oh Snap!!
I suppose I better stop doing it then
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gggGary
Guest
Not saying you aren't right but if the bike needed jumping maybe the RR was already toast?Personal experience here. Had to jump my wife's bike while we were in Durango, Colorado several years ago. Used my Kawasaki Voyager as the donor. Didn't seem likely, as one bike's regulator should easily handle the output of another bike, but it definitely fried the r/r.
That was a very expensive r/r, too. Had to rent a U-Haul truck to get home, about $1200.
.
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suzu650
Guest
still wondering about this?also, I have been roaming around the site looking for bike and decided i want to do something like this
if I'm not mistaken, are the rear shocks on these bikes shorter? If so, how? are they different shocks or rebuilt somehow?
Steve
GS Whisperer
It's possible, but it would have just happened. She rode the bike over 1800 miles from home to Durango, then another 200+ miles while there. This happened on the last day, as we were trying to leave.
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gggGary
Guest
I agree no running cars for the jump.
It sure isn't worth the risk.
Don't crank the starter too long either. I haven't burned up a motorcycle starter (yet). A car battery can keep putting out amps long after the MC starter has cooked itself into uselessness.
It sure isn't worth the risk.
Don't crank the starter too long either. I haven't burned up a motorcycle starter (yet). A car battery can keep putting out amps long after the MC starter has cooked itself into uselessness.
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Dave_17954
Guest
I just put my battery in for the summer season. It turned the engine over but not quite enough rpms at first. Had some older gas with stabil down in the carbs new fuel in the tank. Turned it to prime for bout 10 secs then jumped from my van (engine not running) and it fired right up. 14.7 volts and steady at 3,200 rpm and 12.4 volts at idle. Shes started everytime since then this week. :clap:
