Oz GS1000 resto and GSX1100 cafe builds

[Chuck78]

Well unfortunately (or fortunately? ) the VTR1000F Superhawk forks are no longer going to work on the Rickman CR900-GS750/894cc project, I got hard #'s from a Rickman owner that the OEM 38mm dual disc Rickman forks were 715mm length!

This means the 43mm RF900R (ext rebound&preload adjustable cartridge fork 310mm brakes) slated for the GS425-475cc racer build are going to be great on the Rickman unless I can find some good 296mm rotor Honda RSU forks in around a 700-715mm length (going to drop front a lot to steepen the lazy 28?Rickman rake & run triples up top, VTR forks would be protruding 1.5" above the clips even with 1? offset steering head bearings to reduce rake).
Looks like I may be giving the Rickman a more aggressive stance than planned to get very quick racer steering...

 

[Chuck78]

Thanks for the info on the rear caliper upgrade, not sure what i will do with that yet, none of the GSX1100 alloy wheel spacers seem correct, everything was out on my trial fit, i think i may shift the caliper down and break stay to under the swing arm and get all new custom spacers.. Just looking at a few options now and will let you know how i go...
I'll grab a photo with the chain on shortly showing the chain clearance.

That's because the GS1150 engine has the countershaft output sprocket spaced out further than on 750/1000/1150 engines, so the 1150's wheels were spaced differently than the others.you need to center the wheel, then cut a rear sprocket spacer out of some 7000 series aluminum plate in the thickness you need to get chain alignment.

First things first, you need to just center the rear wheel in the swing arm, the brake position doesn't matter much but more outboard will give you better clearance on the brake stay arm to a 150 tire. Stock spacing will work just fine, but an OEM tubular brake stay arm will need heated up and clearanced. After that, THEN worry about chain alignment.

Also, look for an RF900R rear axle. They are same size as a GS, but hollow to save weight!

 

[blackhammer]

Nate, I'm going to move most of this info into a new thread when I get a minute


All good Chuck, as i was reading it i thought you should perhaps start your own thread in wheels-suspension, it should probably be a sticky as i'm sure a lot of guys read your posts when looking at upgrade options. You and John are great contributors when it comes to potential upgrade options.

 

[blackhammer]

That's because the GS1150 engine has the countershaft output sprocket spaced out further than on 750/1000/1150 engines, so the 1150's wheels were spaced differently than the others.you need to center the wheel, then cut a rear sprocket spacer out of some 7000 series aluminum plate in the thickness you need to get chain alignment.

First things first, you need to just center the rear wheel in the swing arm, the brake position doesn't matter much but more outboard will give you better clearance on the brake stay arm to a 150 tire. Stock spacing will work just fine, but an OEM tubular brake stay arm will need heated up and clearanced. After that, THEN worry about chain alignment.

Also, look for an RF900R rear axle. They are same size as a GS, but hollow to save weight!

I actually think i will end up spacing both the disc and the sprocket, and move and shorten the brake stay to an underslung type. probably will use the new katana disc you suggested with a standard caliper, more modern options are looking like too much work at this point and im really keen to finish the bike and have a ride before the end of this summer.

 

[Chuck78]

Nate, I am stripping a few parts off an early 90's Katana very soon, and I realized that it looked like the rotor bolts are in fact the same 8mm diameter, but the bolts off those bikes have a 10mm shoulder on them. I will confirm this soon, but ordering a half a dozen from Suzuki or cross referencing them on Partzilla to see what other models you might find the same bolts on in the salvage yards will be a good choice.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1993/GSX1100F/FRONT+WHEEL/parts.html
EDIT: the cross reference list at the bottom of that partzilla link makes me think that this bolt must be used on practically every Suzuki sport bike since the mid 1980's! see link above.

• BOLT, DISC (8X33) | MODEL P
  09106-08148
  $3.25
  qty. 12

 

[Chuck78]

Nate, as I've been digging deeper and deeper into bike geometry upgrades & suspension setups (Rickman's @ 28 degrees were slower steering, need to steepen!), it seems as if most people looking for a sporty riding GS typically install up to 1" longer rear shocks to steepen the rake and slightly reduce the trail. If those YSS shocks were the stock length, I would definitely suggest using the +10mm ride height adjusters that YSS advertise with every one of their nicer shocks. Compare front fork length vs stock and drop the front very slightly so that you have a total of 1" combined between the raised height in the rear and the drop in the front.
Oh, also, compare your current tire size o.d. spec to the OEM size, as half of the tire diameter difference is additional change in ride height front and rear. 25mm or so drop in front &/or raised rear end total will get the 27 degree rake and 4.21" trail down to 26 degrees and 3.9" or 4" of trail, still quite stable, but much much more fun to take into turns quickly...

 

[blackhammer]

Hey Chuck, yeh the YSS shocks i have included the high adjusters, intention was to play with front a rear settings until i found what worked for me as a nice streetable bike, so once its up and going i will definitely take a look at what you've mentioned above.
There are actually a few things i will have to look at again i think, sprockets and suspension heights will be top of the list.

currently i am looking at alternative disc and caliper options, i liked your suggestion and i think that is an easy option, i want to look for a more modern caliper as well though, so checking out bikes that had a 20mm rear axle and hopefully i can find a disc/caliper/mount that i can use. Will update after some more research.

 

[blackhammer]

Hey Chuck, did you end up finding out if those 10mm shoulder bolts work? Ive got my 1100F disc, and using the hayabusa caliper with a gsx750 brake stay in an under slung setup.

Before i re-drill the disc i thought id see how you went with the bolts?

 

[Chuck78]

if you have a little bit of time I can pull one off of the bike in the vintage japanese bike salvage yard and measure the shoulder depth, but I'm not sure the next time I will be back there. actually I do need to get an oil filter, so I can make it there this week.

 

[blackhammer]

All good Chuck, don't go out of your way, i was just wondering if you had happened to look at the bolts.

Judging by the look of the rear spoke wheel hub i don't think they will work without boring out 5-10mm our of the thread in the hub, that 10mm shoulder in the bolts looks to go a fair way down before the thread starts. I could like you suggested before in your PM add some washers, or simply re-drill the disc, but i got excited when you found these bolts and thought it would make a neat oem solution.

the various different rear caliper mounts also make for some interesting guessing and speculation. So far, using the 275mm 92'GSX1100F disc it looks like the only option is a custom mount or TIG up the holes on the larger 80'1100 mount and re drill for the later model gsx caliper.

caliper arms - 98 gsx750 (came with the caliper, not useful, axle too large - 02 gs500 - 80 gsx1100

 

[blackhammer]

Info for anyone that might do this triple/fork/hub/disc swap.
Spacers for the discs were 23mm, wheel spacers were slightly different as the hub isn't symmetrical.
Very tight margins for clearance between disc and forks.

spacers

tight

Also finished off the battery tray and most of the wiring, finding the motogadget buttons pretty fiddly to fit on the clipons, once thats done the wiring is finished.

So maybe i will finish this one day after all....

 

[limeex2]

Not sure if you have chosen your brakes yet but here's my .02 worth. I have recently up graded the brake calipers on my 03 ZRX1200. It has standard 6 pot tokiko's. Upgrades in order of performance were based on forum preference. Based on your statement that 4 pot GSXR calipers fit your VTR forks, these should fit also. (1) ZX6r or ZX14 Nissin radial calipers with $130 bracket obtained on Ebay. (2) Nissin 4 pot calipers off of ZX6R, bolt on. (3) Tokiko 4 pots off of GSXR's. Nissin's seem have better than Tokiko. They claim the 6 pot's actually flex. If outstanding brakes are what you are after, I have gone through 2 rebuilt master cylinders and the used ones suck. They didn't have proper maintenance and wore out the bore. If you have to go used look for a couple years old with very clean cups. Get a good master. Your only as good as your weakest link

As far as using the GS650 rear caliper, I tried and there was no performance or weight loss. So I tried using a FZ-1 and made hangers. Saved weight and looks good, but the jury is still out on performance. that may have been more than .02...

 

[limeex2]

Keep in mind these are off another forum. These will work on a ZRX1200. Find a guinea pig for mock up. I have ZRX 6 pots to try if anyone wants to.

 

[blackhammer]

Thanks for the brake advice Lime, im just going to work with the standard nissin 4 pots from the VTR for now, but i was looking long and hard for cbr600F4i 4 pots, or SP1/2 calipers as these are considered good upgrades on the VTR forums. I already have an SP1 m/c.

I got the gen1 hayabusa/gsx rear caliper on. Used my MIG with an aluminium wire spool gun and straight argon to fill the standard hanger, then re-drilled to suit the new caliper. Moved the brake stay to the underside and some box aluminum bar for the new brake stay arm.

 

[Chuck78]

Nate, as always, your bike is looking fantastic! Not any progress on my other builds lately, but I have been doing some riding & making progress in other areas of life. 2 bike builds (920cc gs rickman and 4894cc gs425 racer (EDIT - 489cc) )and a 62 gmc truck later this year though. And looking to buy a lathe and milling machine!

Your build is one of my favorites on this site, very similar to my visions for my own builds. Keep it up mate!

 

[Chuck78]

Thanks for the brake advice Lime, im just going to work with the standard nissin 4 pots from the VTR for now, but i was looking long and hard for cbr600F4i 4 pots, or SP1/2 calipers as these are considered good upgrades on the VTR forums. I already have an SP1 m/c.

I got the gen1 hayabusa/gsx rear caliper on. Used my MIG with an aluminium wire spool gun and straight argon to fill the standard hanger, then re-drilled to suit the new caliper. Moved the brake stay to the underside and some box aluminum bar for the new brake stay arm.

Is that a GS1150 rotor on the rear in that photo? Doesn't look like the Katanas at all! I have a worn out one of those. Maybe I will recommend those as a more direct bolt on

 

[blackhammer]

(920cc gs rickman and 4894cc gs425 racer) Thats a big donk for that little GS Chuck haha

Yeh i think we have similar goals when it comes to looks and performance thats up to date as possible. I know the cut and modify types of bikes arent that popular on here, but i do still have a standard GSX1100, and im slowly (very slowly) rebuilding my 80 GS1000E to standard as well.
Its just this cafe style one with the 1150 thats holding most of my attention at present, hopefully with the 33 smoothbores it should have some go to it.

And that is a 1150 efe front rotor on the back, needed re-drilling for 8mm bolts. I got this one really cheap at the wreckers and its pretty much brand new, I'd prefer a 90's gsx1100 cross drilled rotor but i cant find one for a reasonable price..postage from the states from all the wreckers is the same as the disc itself. Will use the efe one till i hunt down a gsx one.

 

[blackhammer]

So i decided to anodize the swing arm and some other bits and pieces black.

I initially wanted to keep it alloy, but it was in poor condition and apparently if you anodize clear the welds come out black due to silicone content, or something along those lines.

So i went with black, the finish is really good and the guy who did it put a bit of a brush type finish on it, covers alot of the imperfections, almost looks a new part again.

I had a couple of ideas for the brake stay, the box alloy that i initially used (anodized black), and the other is two Heim joints on threaded rod. not sure what i'll go with...feedback?

 

[steve murdoch]

I prefer the look of the threaded rod and Heim joints.
Looks "tricker"[don't think that is a real word].
Maybe have the exhaust can hanger match which ever one you use.

 

[blackhammer]

For anyone that's been following
On the home stretch...
All parts that needed it are now powder coated


Nickle plated goodness.

Doesnt look like much pulled apart

For comedy value...I present my home made booth and budget busting extracting system.

Really happy with how the forks turned to out. Booth and extraction system worked well

Blasted and paint free 1150 waiting for paint