Painting Bike parts

[jdub6092]

I have decided to paint my GS650e (Stardust silver)
I have watched countless videos on painting to include every aspect.
Still, im quite not sure of all the steps I need to take.
I found an NOS tank in the original color, so that's a big one out of the way.
This is what I have planned:
Plastic fairing pieces:
Fully stripped prepped and lightly scuffed.
1. 2 coats of adhesion promoter 3 minutes apart
2. Must apply first coat of primer within 10 minutes.
3. Apply 2 coats of Upol 2253 primer in 4:1:2 ratio (as a sealer). For pieces with filled cracks, use 4:1;1 as primer filler. Consult TDS for cure time before sanding smooth with 320, then 600 grit. If sealer coat is smooth, base coat can be applied after it flashes.
4. Apply 2-3 coats of base. For metallics, 2 wet coats for coverage, then a drop coat to orient metallics and prevent mottling (blotchiness)
5. Wait about 15 minutes.
6. Apply a light coat of Spraymax 2k clear. This will prevent flow of metallics and hold them in place according to some pros.
7. Let first coat flash (7-10 minutes), then apply 2 medium to wet coats of clear.
8. Wait at least 24 hours for clear to cure.
9. Lightly Wet sand the clear with 600 grit paper, then scuff/smooth out any orange peel and shiny bits with gray scotchbrite.
10. Clean surface thoroughly with soap and water, then wax and grease remover, then 70 or 90% isopropyl alcohol.
11. Apply vinyl decals using a spray bottle with distilled water and a drop or two of dish soap to help with placement.
12. Wait at least 24-48 hours for decals to dry.
13. Thoroughly clean the piece with Sprayway.window cleaner followed by 70-90% IPA, Make sure to rub the decal surfaces to allow clear to stick.
14. Apply a very light coat of clear over the decals (from decal instructions).
12. Wait about 15 minutes, then apply Apply 2 more medium to wet coats of clear.
13. Wait at least 24 hours and inspect for orange peel and any other imperfections. If it looks great, leave as is and wait about a week or more to further harden before installing.
14. If imperfections are visible, sand clear with 1500, 2000 then 3000 grit. Wet or dry, but last step with 3000 should be dry or only slightly damp. Use DA for best results.
15. Buff out with compounding polish and pad, then use polish with fine finishing pad using a DA.
16. Do not wax for at least a couple of weeks or even months according to some.

Any corrections or adjustments to this long process would be appreciated.

 

[jdub6092]

Ready for paint.

Next the front fender.
May have filled in dings to soon as it is recommended to apply an epoxy primer before bondo fill. I can either sand off the bondo or go around those areas.
1.) Apply 2 wet coats of epoxy primer waiting for flash between coats (include underside.
2.) Fill in dings with bondo. Wait until cured.
3.) Sand smooth with 320 grit
4.) Apply two coats of Upol 2253.4:1:2 as a sealer.
5.) Let dry overnight
6.) Apply two 2-3 coats of base.
7.) Wait a few hours.
8.) Apply two coats of 2k clear.
9.) Wait 2 days.
10.) Sand clear with 1000-2000 grit.
11.) Apply Vinyl decals.
12.) Wait at least 8 hours for decals to fully dry
13.) Apply 1 or 2 more coats of clear.
14.) Sand out imperfections with 2000 grit.
15.) Buff/Polish.

 

[jdub6092]

prepped fender ready to paint.

 

[oldGSfan]

Is the adhesion promotor from a can? I fret about mixing can under/over with 'real' paint, except for catalyzed 2K clear, which I've used successfully. Directions for the rattle can primers never say what the top-coat can be, but advice on forums is stay away from them. I recently used an adhesion promoter for the first time, over a rusty and pitted hard-chromed brake lever I couldn't afford to replace with NOS one (on a Norton). It seems fine, I top-coated from a can of brake & caliper paint and waited a while, then baked it. Tricky stuff.. I will be interested to hear opinions.

 

[jdub6092]

Is the adhesion promotor from a can? I fret about mixing can under/over with 'real' paint, except for catalyzed 2K clear, which I've used successfully. Directions for the rattle can primers never say what the top-coat can be, but advice on forums is stay away from them. I recently used an adhesion promoter for the first time, over a rusty and pitted hard-chromed brake lever I couldn't afford to replace with NOS one (on a Norton). It seems fine, I top-coated from a can of brake & caliper paint and waited a while, then baked it. Tricky stuff.. I will be interested to hear opinions.

I will use adhesion promoter from a can, but only on the plastics. I will also use the Spraymax 2k clear from a can as I have rarely heard anything but praise for the outcome and have seen some pretty stunning results. The biggest complaints are the nozzle especially when the can is near empty.
Upol 2253 primer and base coats will be applied with a gun.

 

[Nessism]

When color sanding the clear, before the graphics, a gray scotchbrite is enough. It's equal to 600 grit. You want some tooth for the clear to hold on to, 1000-2000 is unnecessary, and may even be bad.

Another thing is to read the data sheet for each product you are spraying. Some products need to be topcoated within a critical recoat time, which means you need to work fast.

 

[oldGSfan]

When color sanding the clear, before the graphics, a gray scotchbrite is enough. It's equal to 600 grit. You want some tooth for the clear to hold on to, 1000-2000 is unnecessary, and may even be bad.

Another thing is to read the data sheet for each product you are spraying. Some products need to be topcoated within a critical recoat time, which means you need to work fast.

I have some OEM side covers, and that can of adhesion promoter from the chrome job. It will be interesting to follow your progress. When will you start?

Ed - So it's clear, then gray scotchbrite, then apply graphics and final clear? I need to get my butt in gear on my 2 sets of bodywork and that has been a hanging question for me.

 

[Nessism]

I have some OEM side covers, and that can of adhesion promoter from the chrome job. It will be interesting to follow your progress. When will you start?

Ed - So it's clear, then gray scotchbrite, then apply graphics and final clear? I need to get my butt in gear on my 2 sets of bodywork and that has been a hanging question for me.

Correct.

And FWIW, I don't bother with adhesion primer on hard plastic like sidecovers or the tail cowl. I use two pack epoxy primer, though.

 

[oldGSfan]

Correct.

And FWIW, I don't bother with adhesion primer on hard plastic like sidecovers or the tail cowl. I use two pack epoxy primer, though.

OK I have that stuff on hand, thanks.

 

[jdub6092]

Turned my garage into a poor excuse for a paint booth.

Got through the epoxy coats on the fender, but it didn't come out very wet on the first coat and I ended up sanding to smooth out the bumps and got down to metal in a few spots. Hit the spots again with epoxy, then used the Upol as a high build primer and sanded smooth.

Side and tail covers got a couple of coats of adhesion promoter and the Upol 2k primer as a sealer. Working in a tight area, I got dragged my shirt across the primer on a side cover. Also some slight orange peel on all so I sanded them all down with 320, then 600 grit and burned through a few small spots.

So next I will hit all parts with another sealer coat, then straight to 2 base coats and a drop coat after appropriate wait time.

I see there are some things to consider when doing a silver metallic. Some suggestions spraying in a criss cross pattern. Anyone with experience in this matter?

 

[jdub6092]

Since I kept getting better at painting with each piece, I decided to try painting my original fuel tank even though I have an NOS replacement. It's in great condition internally and prepped for epoxy primer, except for a decision on what to do with this ding.
Wondering if this is too large to use filler on. It is also where a decal will go over it. It's not real deep, but kind of a large area.

 

[jdub6092]

Just fill it and don't worry. No problem. I would scuff it with 80 grit and buy good quality filler. It's a shame to buy filler for such a small ding. I would almost try to sweet talk a bodyshop to gob some in there for you for a beer or a donut. however you might end up haviing to do it a few times to get it contoured correctly and not be too flat. Try to shape it with 120 grit as that knocks it down without deforming.then 180ish, 240 and 320 before primer. That's what I do anyway.

Thanks, thats how i was leaning. I have some fast dry bondo filler left over from touching up my fender, so I'll need to check if it is recommended for a ding this size.

 

[jdub6092]

After filling nicks, 2k epoxy primer, 2k filler primer, 2 coats of base + drop coat and 2 coats of clear scuffed down and decal installation, this is where im at

20250711_073805 by jchaswhite, on Flickr

20250711_071322(1)(1) by jchaswhite, on Flickr

 

[jdub6092]

Unfortunately, I have had a defect for every piece I've painted, and no exception for the tank.
Had a paint run on the other side, which will require me to do a blend of both base and clear.
Already did a blend on one of the side covers an ended up with two tone silver.
This is what separates a painter from a hobbyist.

20250711_073348 by jchaswhite, on Flickr

Would hate to screw this up because I would like to sell one of my tanks.

 

[oldGSfan]

Unfortunately, I have had a defect for every piece I've painted, and no exception for the tank.
Had a paint run on the other side, which will require me to do a blend of both base and clear.
Already did a blend on one of the side covers an ended up with two tone silver.
This is what separates a painter from a hobbyist.

https://flic.kr/p/2rg4di6

Would hate to screw this up because I would like to sell one of my tanks.

Same boat, hang in there.

 

[nvr2old]

Unfortunately, I have had a defect for every piece I've painted, and no exception for the tank.
Had a paint run on the other side, which will require me to do a blend of both base and clear.
Already did a blend on one of the side covers an ended up with two tone silver.
This is what separates a painter from a hobbyist.

20250711_073348 by jchaswhite, on Flickr

Would hate to screw this up because I would like to sell one of my tanks.

If it were me, I wouldn't worry about blending in your base coat and clear coats. I would first sand your tank completely with 600 then spray your sand-throughs with a couple of light coats of primer. Otherwise base coat may eat through the outside edges of your sanded areas. Spray the entire tank with your silver base coat but make the coats pretty dry so it won't eat the repair, followed by several coats of clear.

 

[jdub6092]

If it were me, I wouldn't worry about blending in your base coat and clear coats. I would first sand your tank completely with 600 then spray your sand-throughs with a couple of light coats of primer. Otherwise base coat may eat through the outside edges of your sanded areas. Spray the entire tank with your silver base coat but make the coats pretty dry so it won't eat the repair, followed by several coats of clear.

The first 2-1/2 coats of clear have been wet sanded with 600 and further dulled and smoothed with gray scotch.
I've already applied the decals on one side so dropping another coat of base is not an economical option.

I really need to find a way to repair this. The only positive is this area is surrounded by curves that can make a transition less noticeable.
Spraymax spot blender didn't really help the side cover repair.

 

[nvr2old]

The first 2-1/2 coats of clear have been wet sanded with 600 and further dulled and smoothed with gray scotch.
I've already applied the decals on one side so dropping another coat of base is not an economical option.

I really need to find a way to repair this. The only positive is this area is surrounded by curves that can make a transition less noticeable.
Spraymax spot blender didn't really help the side cover repair.

I misunderstood your situation. You have no choice but to blend the silver. I would still spray a couple of light coats of primer on the sand through to protect the edges from lifting. Then spray the silver followed by a couple of coats of clear before letting it dry overnight. Sand lightly before putting the decals on. It sounds difficult but you're doing fine.

 

[jdub6092]

I misunderstood your situation. You have no choice but to blend the silver. I would still spray a couple of light coats of primer on the sand through to protect the edges from lifting. Then spray the silver followed by a couple of coats of clear before letting it dry overnight. Sand lightly before putting the decals on. It sounds difficult but you're doing fine.

Yep, that sounds like good advice.
Would you spray the base over the added primer after it flashes or let it dry and feather sand for a smooth transition before base and clear?
I was thinking I should spray the base out to the front edges and close to the curves using open loop tape masking to avoid sharp edges. Then blend the clear at the curves. Ill try the spot blender again understanding that it really only helps when the color match is close.

Silver metallic is a challenge to match, even when the paint comes from the same pint.

 

[Nessism]

Where the primer ends, and you transition onto the existing clear, could be ripe for paint lifting when the new coats go down. Fingers crossed for you...