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Rear shock absorber posts stripped

ukjules

Forum Sage
I have on one side 2 rear shock absorber posts stripped.
The threads have not been great since i had this bike but I wanted to see once and for all
if they were ok . They are now stripped and i cannot get them back tapping and dieing.

GS550E 1980

They are both m10 * 1.25 threads and the main post is 12mm dia.
The m10 * 1.25 thread is now stripped on both.

I have run a tap in the bolts and a die on the threads and they wont tighten.

What on earth can I do now ?
I am not a welder.
I have restored many bikes and this is a first for me - and all this on my favorite bike.
 
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I have on one side 2 rear shock absorber posts stripped.
The threads have not been reat since i had this bike but I wanted to see once and for all
if they were ok . They are now stripped and i cannot get them back tapping and dieing.

GS550E 1980

They are both m10 * 1.25 threads and the main post is 12mm dia.
The m10 * 1.25 thread is now stripped on both.

I have run a tap in the bolts and a die on the threads and they wont tighten.

What on earth can I do now ?
I am not a welder.
I have restored many bikes and this is a first for me - and all this on my favorite bike.

Same thing happened to me on my top posts. I just downsized them with a die. Been like that for years now.
 
ok so i need to find out if there are domed m9 nuts ?

Has anyone who has done this found any suitable nuts ?
also the m9 die ?

As my thread is m10*1.25 the next one down is m9 - one i have never heard of ?
 
Damned annoying this as was the previous owners ham fisted mechanics years ago's fault.

So original thread was : m10 * 1.25

I have found dies for m9 * 1 or 1.25.
I will first find a nut that looks ok'ish, check the thread then get the die.

Ill take a pic of before and after and update - when i get to work.
thanks for info and letting me know others have sorted this !
 
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Q) As i am going from m10 to m9, any advice on doing so ?
Do i file down the original thread area a bit ? or just thread directly over the old thread ?
 
I'd think if you used a m9 x 1.25 die, you could just go over the old threads.
 
I have a M9*1.25 die ordered from.ebay.
I have 2 M9*1.25 nuts ordered from a citrean club.

I think bicycle front axle nuts are M9* 1.0 , will
check but they are domed too.

I know a machine works that could make the exact same
posts. It must be simple to lathe and thread these. I'd have to find a welder to attach it mind.
This is the last resort but hell these old bikes need some care don't they.
Of all my bikes my GS is the one I have not done a nut and bolt
mechanical restore on so I am.bound to find these issues.
 
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Update on the issue:

With some washer swapping and changing I managed to use
the very last bits of thread and now the rear shocks are secure
and with care I think can be taken off at will.

Cheers for advice.
At least now I have the tooling and nut form the one size down
method re thread. And as you say as original was 10*1.25
9*1.25 would go straight over.

@rijko , I'd be very interested how to get on with your fix ?
Post here how you sorted it when you do ?
 
Q)
If I reduce a 10*1.25 to m9*1.25 I will have to get
different nuts.

Is there any way I can use the original nuts M10*1.25
for visual reasons ?

- would using say liquid metal , areldite , jb weld to carefully
Insert into old threads then re tap m9 ?
Just wandered as if I can't there will always be one nut incorrect ?
 
You might struggle to get m9 nuts. Could probably make your own with a tap & some hex bar.
 
I've only ever seen M9 with a 14mm spanner size and presume you're after 17mm. I reckon the only way you could do M9 17mm would be to buy some 17mm hexagon bar and drill and tap it to M9 yourself.
 
I can get m9 nut but m9*1.0 not m9*1.25
They are also slight smaller .

Could you tap these m9*1.25 directly over the thread ?

Also would the areldite , liquid metal method work ?
I.e the original M10*1.25 but spread with areldite and re tapped ?
 
Araldite definitely wouldn't work and I've yet to see a liquid metal that would but I've not used that many of them. I've retapped threads the same size with success (can't remember if it was coarse to fine or vice versa) so I'd say it's worth a go - it's not a high torque setting for those nuts anyway.
 
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