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Series Regulator Source SH775

Why would a RR affect engine temps??

It doesn't. The engine generates far more heat burning gasoline than the stator does generating electricity. Simple physics.

It is a stretch to suggest the stator raises oil temperature above what the engine does no matter what the regulator was doing. Other bikes have a dry stator not bathed in oil that use the same regulator (Honda CM400 ex) and if the stator actually got THAT hot it would burn up in no time.

Interestingly enough these Honda bikes don't suffer from stator failures and their SDG regulators never fail no matter how bad the connections get. So another myth is busted that corroded connectors break stator or regulators. Corroded connectors just make it hard to keep the battery up but don't "kill" regulators.

Using an overkill regulator isn't going to hurt anything as long as it's wired properly and mounted securely. The costs for the regulator is much higher than the SH-232 or SH-532 and there is the matter of a wiring harness to contend with. But to each his own. I've moved 300+ SDG regulators in the past few years and I think they are working fine these days.
 
It doesn't. The engine generates far more heat burning gasoline than the stator does generating electricity. Simple physics.

It is a stretch to suggest the stator raises oil temperature above what the engine does no matter what the regulator was doing. Other bikes have a dry stator not bathed in oil that use the same regulator (Honda CM400 ex) and if the stator actually got THAT hot it would burn up in no time.

Interestingly enough these Honda bikes don't suffer from stator failures and their SDG regulators never fail no matter how bad the connections get. So another myth is busted that corroded connectors break stator or regulators. Corroded connectors just make it hard to keep the battery up but don't "kill" regulators.

Using an overkill regulator isn't going to hurt anything as long as it's wired properly and mounted securely. The costs for the regulator is much higher than the SH-232 or SH-532 and there is the matter of a wiring harness to contend with. But to each his own. I've moved 300+ SDG regulators in the past few years and I think they are working fine these days.

All good points. I think I like the operating principle of this design more than the actual amount of improvement it will offer. For $65 it was a cheap upgrade from stock, which is what I have right now.
 
Thank you, I suspected as much.

Duanage is making generalizations and can not accept the truth. On GS1100E's that are hopped up there is a noticeable drop in operating temperature. It has been documented here and independently confirmed.

I don't think Duane has an 1100E and is basing his presumptions on what he has observed from his 550. Ignoring oil coolers, any 4 cylinder bike is going to have a similar capacity for dissipating heat. Given the hp diff from a small 4Cy putting out 40-45 hp, v.s. a 1100E putting out 130-140 hp there is a marked difference in oil temperature .

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397
 
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So I noticed that the 4012941 part number on my SH775BA on my regulator now mostly brings up one that IS NOT what we are looking for, but rather a replacement RM Stator brand MOSFET regulator/rectifier for Can-Am's and Yamaha's that is mostly grey/silver in color as opposed to black on the Shindengens. So be careful not to buy this one if looking for a 3 phase series style R/R. Maybe it is just listed as a replacement for the SH775, but I see a ton of ebay listings when searching for the part # on mine for my wife's bike.

I did find another source for the SH775, search for SH775AA 278002021 for SkiDoo BRP Spyders, also says in the current ebay listing "2011 Grand Touring 600 ACE. This regulator will fit tons of vehicule in the Bombardier line up like Spyder , Outlander , snowmobile and this will also fit some Honda , Yamaha & Suzuki vehicule"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330812941232
 
Duanage is making generalizations and can not accept the truth. On GS1100E's that are hopped up there is a noticeable drop in operating temperature. It has been documented here and independently confirmed.

Well, I guess I'll join the Doubting Thomas Club. The PM charging systems on these bikes put out at best 400W. This is a third of what my hair dryer puts out, and I can't imagine any circumstance when this would make a difference in the operating temperature of a gasoline-burning 80+ h.p. engine, considering that a single h.p. is defined as 746 watts.

If it's 'independently confirmed', I'd like to see the details and the control of variables.
 
Well at any rate, it's much easier on the stator to not be running it at max output nonstop & shorting to ground at 1000 cycles per second. Regardless of its effect on engine temperature, the stator's load & temp. is far less
 
It doesn't. The engine generates far more heat burning gasoline than the stator does generating electricity. Simple physics.

The heat from burning gasoline is dissipated through cooling fins in the head and cylinders. Some of it gets into the oil, not much. The stator, with a lot of watts heating it, is cooled only by contact with the oil, and the oil finds it's way eventually to it's own tiny cooling fins.
I have no problem believing the series regulator lets the oil stay cooler, just thinking about it I would think it does since all of these extra watts are no longer there to be dissipated...

If Posplayer says he tested it and it ran cooler I would certainly believe him.
 
Duanage is making generalizations and can not accept the truth. On GS1100E's that are hopped up there is a noticeable drop in operating temperature. It has been documented here and independently confirmed.

I don't think Duane has an 1100E and is basing his presumptions on what he has observed from his 550. Ignoring oil coolers, any 4 cylinder bike is going to have a similar capacity for dissipating heat. Given the hp diff from a small 4Cy putting out 40-45 hp, v.s. a 1100E putting out 130-140 hp there is a marked difference in oil temperature .

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397

whatever you say Jim, you're the expert :-\\\
 
Well, I guess I'll join the Doubting Thomas Club. The PM charging systems on these bikes put out at best 400W. This is a third of what my hair dryer puts out, and I can't imagine any circumstance when this would make a difference in the operating temperature of a gasoline-burning 80+ h.p. engine, considering that a single h.p. is defined as 746 watts.

If it's 'independently confirmed', I'd like to see the details and the control of variables.

This right here. It's a matter of power dissipation. Even if straight DC was running through the coils it would not be enough to boil the oil. I've run alternators from belt driven motors providing 50+ amps and the case barely got warm.
 
Mechanical watts? Thermal Watts? Or Electrical Watts? :confused: This whole conversation always cracks me up. The person who has done research has to defend his evidence against someone who offers none. However the nay sayer does offer to sell you a different model. Funny stuff. ;)

BTW, the block heater in my truck seems to heat up the coolant pretty well at -45C. It is 600w.:-k I don't actually know the heat output in watts, only the electrical power consumption. However resistive heating loads are quite efficient, somewhere around 90% :-\\\
 
Well all I have to say is that the Shindengen MOSFET units are a good & very affordable alternative to most other units, & the series style is a much further improvement yet, & at a very affordable cost still. Any temperature drop is an added bonus, & they are much easier on the stators regardless of overall effect on engine temps. Also, I am so far very impressed with the quality of Shindengen units, where as some Honda spec replacements, nothing to write home about (although I'm sure there are top notch & sub-par examples like the one I took off of my bike that was regulating too much).
 
Well, I guess I'll join the Doubting Thomas Club. The PM charging systems on these bikes put out at best 400W. This is a third of what my hair dryer puts out, and I can't imagine any circumstance when this would make a difference in the operating temperature of a gasoline-burning 80+ h.p. engine, considering that a single h.p. is defined as 746 watts.

If it's 'independently confirmed', I'd like to see the details and the control of variables.

I already pointed to this thread that provided the requisite evidence.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=162677

In other posts I showed a drop of approximately 250 watt reduction comparing a SHUNT MOSFET R/R to the CF SERIES R/R.

There are three elements of power dissipation in the GS Charging system.

a.) The electrical load delivered to a standard GS (approx 14 amps at 14.5V) 167.2 Watts
b.) The dissipated heat in the R/R (this can vary significantly depending upon the R/R) e.g. 50-100 watts
c.) The power dissipated in the stator. I estimated there to be a 250 watt differential between SERIES and SHUNT as delivered to the engine as heat going into the oil.

The controlled tests are comparing well know operating characteristics to new operating characteristics following install of the CF on a 1166 built GS1100E.
 
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I'm gonna chime in here too, on the temp subject. The load on the engine will cause it to work harder and create more heat, it won't solely be heat soak from the stator.

Taxable HP is a big deal too, if you don't believe that go pop the serpentine belt off the grocery getter in the driveway then go see how it runs.. it'll wake right up.

My recently purchased GS550 came with a battery that had been boiled out, so I am going to replace the RR right off, its a 4500 mile bike so Im hoping the stator is still good to go, I think the series reg is a no brainer, especially this sh775, for the price.. all I care about is charging performance and reliability, 10 degrees or 7/10s of a hp will make no difference to me, but to say it can't possibly make a difference? I won't.
 
Anyone manage to get a meter/scope on one of these SH775's yet? :)
 
Anyone manage to get a meter/scope on one of these SH775's yet? :)

Hey Dan,

We have clamp on amp meters where I work. I'll work on "borrowing" it one day after work or on the weekend.

As far as Jim's oil temperature claim goes, count me as skeptic. I have both a Compufire and FH009 and plan to do back to back tests in the future.
 
I have a 337. Unfortunately ? I just picked up a compufire for my Daytona.
 
I remain extremely skeptical.

You're talking about roughly 850 Btu, and that's going to heat an engine that size by 30 F? in substantial airflow... I just don't see that happening. 850 Btu is a couple of light bulbs -- and that's going to sustain a temperature difference that great?

Sorry. Can't buy it. I'd have to see something that remotely resembles a scientific test, with some control of the half-zillion variables.
 
I remain extremely skeptical.

You're talking about roughly 850 Btu, and that's going to heat an engine that size by 30 F? in substantial airflow... I just don't see that happening. 850 Btu is a couple of light bulbs -- and that's going to sustain a temperature difference that great?

Sorry. Can't buy it. I'd have to see something that remotely resembles a scientific test, with some control of the half-zillion variables.

Agree.

Keep in mind that in order to heat oil up to 270 F, the stator would have to be hotter than this by a fair amount. Does a GS stator run at 300 F due to shunted current?
 
Agree.

Keep in mind that in order to heat oil up to 270 F, the stator would have to be hotter than this by a fair amount. Does a GS stator run at 300 F due to shunted current?


Of course it does Ed, what else do you think is burning powdercoat off of the stators. It takes about 400 degF just to cure the stuff. Is it 450-500 degF to burn it to a crisp?
 
Of course it does Ed, what else do you think is burning powdercoat off of the stators. It takes about 400 degF just to cure the stuff. Is it 450-500 degF to burn it to a crisp?

Well Jim, it that stator is running at 400+ F then it will heat the oil as you say.

What stator company uses powder coat and how do you come by that information?
 
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