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Shorter Throttle Cables etc...

  • Thread starter Thread starter djg42
  • Start date Start date
D

djg42

Guest
Hello,
I put on different(clubmen) handlebars, and im left with a lot of extra cable length getting in the way and looking cluttered. How do you go about fixing this? The extra cable length kindof defeated the prupose of the new bars,
Thanks
DG
 
You orta be ashamed Ed, but you are right. Suzuki made a GS450"S" (not sure what year)that was a "sportier" model. It had lower bars & shorter cables. Just my opinion.
 
Thanks, i mean when i look for cables of a shorter length how do i know if the cables are compatible? Or is a throttle cable a throttle cable and a clutch cable a clutch cable etc...
Do you mean I should just order OEM cables for a 450S, thatd be easy,

Thanks!
 
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Most of the GS bikes (maybe all of them) use the same ends for the throttle cable. The clutch cables use two ends that I know of, it depends on whether the lower end of the cable is on the left or right side of the bike.

"Choke" cables, on the other hand, well, there's a bunch of them. The early ones came up through the steering stem, but I have seen at least two diameters at the knob end. Starting in '82, they moved the activation point to a thumb lever under the left grip. They also changed how the cable attached to the linkage on the carbs, so both ends of the cable are different.

For the shorter cables you are looking for, look for one of the smaller bikes that came in a "sporty" version, like the 450S that was suggested. For newer versions, maybe the 650 Katana. Definitely stay away from cables for any of the "L" models. :eek:

.
 
I had to have custom cables made for my GS since it uses HD style handlebar controls and they are 12" longer. I sent the original cables to Barnett and they built them for me. They work and look great.
Since yours are correct on both ends you could shorten them. Should be able to heat the ball on one end and remove it, then pull the cable out. Then carefully remove the steel cap on the end of the sheeth and cut the excess length off. Carefully reinstall the cap, maybe superglue it if need be. With some sharp diagnals cut the excess cable from the end you removed the ball from. Insert the cable back into the sheeth and solder the ball back on.
 
Someone here in the Performance forum said flanders will make up cables of any length for cheap. I've used both 550M and 1000S cables on several bikes with good results. The 450S cables may work as well but I have no experience with them.
 
Which version of the 450 do you have? I have an "E" and I think the "s" version is the same just with fairing and bar end mirrors. I could compare lengths on my e if you like. Give me a PM if you need me to measure. I just looked up the S and E versions. They have different bars and cables

Charlie G.
 
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Thanks, i have a 450L. I want to put in steel brake lines while Im at it, but dont know much about them. Besides length, how do I pick the right kind out? Thanks!
 
Those are the type I have used on all my machines, over the years I have collected a few bits and pieces. Banjos and banjo bolts add up.

I usually buy the Russell lines from Summit Racing, better price if you go this route.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-656012/

At one time MAW was decent in their pricing, but last time they wanted friggin $12 each on shipping tacked on. :eek:
 
Here's your solution:
Cableendsmotorcycle003.jpg

Cableendsmotorcycle004.jpg


Its a replacement cable end. I made it out of a 6 mm socket head cap screw (the unthreaded portion) or you could use a plain piece of bar stock of the appropriate diameter. This particular piece measures .234" diameter. Drill the hole lengthwise first, then tap. I tapped #6-32 because that's what I had. Then drill the cross hole. This is the hole the cable goes into, then tighten down the set screw. I used a button head cap screw, again, because it's what I had in my box o screws.

This will allow you to shorten your cables to whatever you want them to be, install the cable end, and off you go. This will also allow you to use a common bicycle brake cable should your throttle (or choke, for that matter) cable ever break somewhere less than convenient.

Good luck!
 
I needed that part up at Moosehead lake a few years back... why didnt the hardware store have that in stock.. lol
 
Thanks, i might try that but im not sure if my clumsy abilities could pull it off. I emailed dennis kirk and they said id need the following to use with this brake line,
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=195448&catId=416&leafCatId=41604

-Chrome Straight Banjo Fitting-3/8 in. x 10mm 19-2539
-Chrome 35 Degree 3/8 in.-10mm Banjo Fitting 19-2545
-Chrome Single Bolt for BMW, Ducati and Suzuki 15-910
-3/8 in./10mm Copper Crush Washers 19-3395
would I need all of these pieces to put the brake line in?
 
Thanks, i might try that but im not sure if my clumsy abilities could pull it off. I emailed dennis kirk and they said id need the following to use with this brake line,
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=195448&catId=416&leafCatId=41604

-Chrome Straight Banjo Fitting-3/8 in. x 10mm 19-2539
-Chrome 35 Degree 3/8 in.-10mm Banjo Fitting 19-2545
-Chrome Single Bolt for BMW, Ducati and Suzuki 15-910
-3/8 in./10mm Copper Crush Washers 19-3395
would I need all of these pieces to put the brake line in?



Yes.


But, I would go with Russell fittings, they are cheaper. AN fittings are AN fittings, 10mm banjos are 10mm banjos. So,

-Chrome Straight Banjo Fitting-3/8 in. x 10mm 19-2539 $10.99
vs.
-Russell Brake Line Fitting-3/8 in./10mm Banjo x #3 Male Straight 191340 $6.99


-Chrome 35 Degree 3/8 in.-10mm Banjo Fitting 19-2545 $10.99
vs.
Russell Brake Line Fitting-3/8 in. /10mm Banjo x #3 Male 35 degree 191341 $6.99


-Chrome Single Bolt for BMW, Ducati and Suzuki 15-910 $6.99

Less than Russell on the single bolt, comes with crushwashers, I think.

The Russell lines at Summit Racing are a few $ less.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-656012/


-3/8 in./10mm Copper Crush Washers 19-3395 $3.99

I think the copper look better, but check to see if the bolt come with the washers, I think they do.

Or just go by what DK says.

A few more $, but it is your money. :p

There are a few threads that have links to assembled brake lines as well. If I remember it was not a bad price either.

I think it was an ebay seller.

Eric
 
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I just had a set of push-pull throttle cables made at Wright's which turned out really nice. They modified some Motion Pro cables to the specified length and the turn-around time was really quick. I bet they'd ship to you if you wanted to go that route.
 
thanks for shining some light for me tejasmud, much appreciated!! Ill definitely take the Russel parts you mentioned instead.
is this a pre-assembled brake line i could use as you mentioned?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-657042/


You would still need the banjo on the -3 AN end.

Lengths are some what misleading also.

For an assembled hose, which has both banjos the measure is from the center of the banjo I believe.

The -3 AN to -3 AN hose is usually measured from the AN fittings, where the banjos in somecases will give you 3/4 to 1 inch more in length. A 18 inch line turns out like a 20 inch line.

From calling Russell direct if I remember correct, the line you have in the link is measured from banjo center to the -3 AN fitting. This would not include the additional length of the banjo needed.

The first time I bought lines, they were too long is how I know. :o





If you don't feel comfortable doing your own, pre-made is the way to go.

Russell, Goodridge are not the only option.

I looked for that other link I mentioned, but could not find it.

But, also, out there, for brake lines.

http://www.paragonperformance.com/Suzuki GS1100.html

http://www.spieglerusa.com/

http://www.usahel.com/

Ray mentioned, "Terry Cables Hesperia, California" not familiar with them, but if that is who Ray uses I would bet they are pretty decent.

I looked it up. http://www.terrycable.com/ , maybe for your throttle cable.

Make your own, is not as hard as it seems. Lots of info on how-to.

Ed's "Do-it-yourself" thread
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=114521

Brians site, Katmans, "Do-it-yourself"
http://www.bwringer.com/gs/brakelines.html
 
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