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Swing arm having gap at mounts

timebombprod

Forum Sage
The video explains the issue all by a minute thirty, but I just show all that's going on with the bike so that's why the video is 3 minutes, anyways i have a gap in my swing arm at its mounts and gap at the rear wheel where it gets mounted with the axle, help me clear this gap!

https://youtu.be/e3HO-2dde4I
 
You would have to remove the tire and shock mount(s) with nothing but the swing arm attached, so you can see the movement. If there is movement, you hope you have swing arm bushings, or the swing arm bolt and nut are loose. Some swingarms don't have bushings, and fixing them is extremely problematic. Either a machine shop gets involved, or you look for a new swingarm. You really should put the model and year to get exact help. :)
 
The gaps are normal . The shaft drive swing arm pivots pins have lock nuts. Plenty of chassis or marine grease that doesn't wash out helps keep the crap out of them. The pivots are screwed in so that the swingarm sits centrally in the frame (i.e. the gap between the swingarm and the pivot and the frame are equal on each side. They are torqued in to the specified tension (important) and then the lock nuts on either side lock the pins in postion.

wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==


The rear axle needs the brake caliper carrier and all the spacer sleeves on it to position the rear wheel correctly on the axle. It'll make sense when the axle bits are on.

suzuki-gs650gt-1982-z-e01-e02-e04-e15-e16-e17-e18-e21-22-24-25-26-34-rear-swinging-arm_bigsue0120fig-76_7783.gif
 
thankyou! ill relook at both parts diagrams, and get it correctly this time. after this its just basically motor, carbs, and wiring everything up, i still need to do a little work on my harness but its nothing big.
 
The gaps at the pivot are normal. The G swingarms pivot in tapered roller bearings, the swingarm should be centered between them.

At the axle, by the time you get the caliper holder and spacers in there, it will be SNUG. In fact, you may have to pry it apart slightly to get everything in.
 
If it doesn't have bushings, it would have bearings, correct? Or is that just for chain drive? Years ago, I changed the bushings on my CB350 to cure a front wobble, and it was an easy job. Another advantage of chains. :stupid:
 
I didn't realize it was a shaft drive. A much more durable set up. I would refer to Factory Manuals for inspection procedure, but I would think that the gaps are normal, and the tapered roller bearing would have a torque spec for tightening them. You should try and get a Factory Manual to do a proper service, and find the intervals. They can be found online, in .pdf form, and I haven't had to pay for one yet. :)
 
If it doesn't have bushings, it would have bearings, correct? Or is that just for chain drive? Years ago, I changed the bushings on my CB350 to cure a front wobble, and it was an easy job. Another advantage of chains. :stupid:

yes it has bearings!
 
is the torque link still required without the rear brake or is it part of the swingarm itself? its part [NODE="20"]Classifieds (Road-ready GS's only)[/NODE]
 
According to the pic posted above, the torque arm from the rear brake is separate, but you cannot run the rear brake without it. That 850 in the link you provided is super clean. If it is at the right price, it would be a worthwhile purchase. They had a lot of torque! :)
 
is the torque link still required without the rear brake or is it part of the swingarm itself? its part [NODE="20"]Classifieds (Road-ready GS's only)[/NODE]

Any reason why you would not want to install the rear brake? I know Florida doesn’t have vehicle safety inspections like most other states. So maybe is isn’t technically required. It’s my understanding that you can, legally, put just about anything on the road there. Doesn’t mean you should. I use the adages, “2 is 1, 1 is none”, and “better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it”. Same rules apply to firearms.
 
Any reason why you would not want to install the rear brake? I know Florida doesn’t have vehicle safety inspections like most other states. So maybe is isn’t technically required. It’s my understanding that you can, legally, put just about anything on the road there. Doesn’t mean you should. I use the adages, “2 is 1, 1 is none”, and “better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it”. Same rules apply to firearms.

When you're a congenital idiot you're reasoning is it looks better and brakes only slow you down.
https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/~cliff/storage/gs/GS650GManual.pdf
pg 216
bearings are tapered
torque arm hardware is prone to wear. Shoulder pivot bolt gets grooved. Hole gets ovoid and uneven wear.
 
thats weird i put 20 with the # and it gave that link, and i never had a working rear brake on the bike since i owned it, i have the master cylinder and i installed and bled it but it really didnt work well, future plans are to put a clamp on bracket on the frame, and maybe a mechanical brake instead of hydraulic. its certainly important but if i had a weak front brake i dont think the rear will save me. the bike is just gonna be for fun nowadays not a daily commuter anymore.
 
According to the pic posted above, the torque arm from the rear brake is separate, but you cannot run the rear brake without it. That 850 in the link you provided is super clean. If it is at the right price, it would be a worthwhile purchase. They had a lot of torque! :)
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
 
As a kid, I thought the rear brake was superfluous and more a distraction than useful -unless you wanted to skid the rear. Hey, everyone knows that the front brake does all the work, and I never have to waste money on rear brake pads. As someone now (much) older and wiser I realise that the rear brake is all about control, rather than pure stopping power. It is so useful at modulating traffic jam crawling speed -no front end dive and allows a looser grip on the bars for more control when treading in between car wing-mirrors. Applied slightly before hitting the front brakes it begins the weight transfer process assisting in smooth loading of the front tyre. And its essential to use both when trial braking, when you want braking to be be balanced on both wheels as you ease of the brakes and add lean.
 
As a kid, I thought the rear brake was superfluous and more a distraction than useful -unless you wanted to skid the rear. Hey, everyone knows that the front brake does all the work, and I never have to waste money on rear brake pads. As someone now (much) older and wiser I realise that the rear brake is all about control, rather than pure stopping power. It is so useful at modulating traffic jam crawling speed -no front end dive and allows a looser grip on the bars for more control when treading in between car wing-mirrors. Applied slightly before hitting the front brakes it begins the weight transfer process assisting in smooth loading of the front tyre. And its essential to use both when trial braking, when you want braking to be be balanced on both wheels as you ease of the brakes and add lean.

I've realized I'm gonna be limiting myself as to what I can do and how I can ride removing it, it makes me think more about getting one back on the bike, but I'm still pretty new as I've only clocked in maybe 2 thousand miles on the bike in a course of 3 years and i know i wouldnt be using the rear brake anytime soon, there still is a plan to add a working rear brake it'll just be alot different than the original setup.

Even if somebody tells me something I have to find out myself or see whatever it is first hand to really understand, it can be idiotic but its part of just how i work. I'm my own worst enemy!
 
Something to remember. The younger you are, the harder it is to listen to the ones who are older and wiser... Speaking from experience, I was young once.
 
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