Top 10 Newbie Mistakes

[BillyBob]

Trying to get round a 90 deg bend, at night, on a illegal race tuned GT125, with the law on your tail, hitting the curb.... staying on.... doing a series of turns and burns.... loosing the law, ending up 6 miles from the safety of home... with no juice... and having to push the little screamer up god knows how many hills whilst whilst tryng to keep a low profile from the local law, who are now on the hunt.

Yep I got home. Nope I didn't get busted. Yep it took me hours. Nope I didn't learn.

 

[bradleymaynar]

A "good" shop is typically equated to no SuzuKawaHonamaha signs outside and the mechanic/owner isn't emblazoned with said sponsorship on their uniform while they are trying to sell you the newest bike on the market and asking what maintenance issues you may be having with your bike.

Brad bk

 

[Mattias44]

How about believing a single word the PO tells you about the bike?

Present company excluded, of course.

 

[MR -K]

Putting on your carbs and forgetting to put on the fuel line beforehand.

 

[SVSooke]

Putting on your carbs and forgetting to put on the fuel line beforehand.

Hey I resemble that remark,don't have to be a noob to do that one

 

[Assaf]

That needs to be made a STICKY!!

(Not that it will ever be read, though )

.

I'm reading it

 

[Assaf]

Running OEM suspension front or back...

Replacing your old tires and not replacing the most likely OEM valve stems.

Hey tw21776
I didn't understand these two points.
OEM means "a replacement part made by the manufacturer of the original part", right? So do you mean that the original Suzuki suspension parts are no good?

I've just had one of my tyres replaced by what I believe to be a competent recommended mechanic. It seems fine. Should I have specifically asked him to change the stems too? Is it common for an experienced mechanic to not do this, or is this just a newbie issue?

thanks

 

[GateKeeper]

Anytime I change the tire, I have the valve stem changed as well, be it on my car or on the motocycle, they are a rubber part, can harden and stiffen up and cause a leak, so it's easier to change while the tires are already off

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Rule number one, R-T-F-M!

Rule number one, R-T-F-M!

How bout not buying and reading the service manual?

Most newbie questions can be answered in 1 min. by just looking at the troubleshooting guide.


Rule #2, If you want an intelligent answer, ask an intelligent question.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Hey tw21776
I didn't understand these two points.
OEM means "a replacement part made by the manufacturer of the original part", right? So do you mean that the original Suzuki suspension parts are no good?

I've just had one of my tyres replaced by what I believe to be a competent recommended mechanic. It seems fine. Should I have specifically asked him to change the stems too? Is it common for an experienced mechanic to not do this, or is this just a newbie issue?

thanks

The original Suzuki suspension was made to function decently. However, it is 25+ years old, out of date, and most likely worn out. Current suspension parts are far better than the original suspension, even when it was new.
You should always specify that the valve stems are changed as well. "Normally" it will be listed on the invoice if he replaced it.
OEM actually refers to the computer seller's practice to have parts manufactured by someone else and branded with the seller's brand. Here it just means Suzuki parts, or original parts sold on the bike when it was new.

 

[Guest]

14), or 8b) Checking the oil level with the bike on the side stand, deciding it is drastically low, and then proceeding to drastically overfill, till the level 'looks right' (with the bike still on the side stand). Oil level must be checked with the bike perpendicular to the ground!!:hand:

 

[Nessism]

14), or 8b) Checking the oil level with the bike on the side stand, deciding it is drastically low, and then proceeding to drastically overfill, till the level 'looks right' (with the bike still on the side stand). Oil level must be checked with the bike perpendicular to the ground!!:hand:

Nice one!

To check oil...

1) Engine cold
2) Bike on center stand (although for you hot rodders that take yours off, keep the bike level)
3) Start engine and run for a couple min. then shut down
4) Wait about 1-2 min
5) Check oil level and adjust as necessary

If you leave your petcock on Prime, or if your petcock has failed, the crankcase can/will fill with gas thus showing the "oil" level to be overfilled. This is not actually "oil" but rather oil/gas mix. Not good.

 

[Guest]

Nice one!

To check oil...

1) Engine cold
2) Bike on center stand (although for you hot rodders that take yours off, keep the bike level)
3) Start engine and run for a couple min. then shut down
4) Wait about 1-2 min
5) Check oil level and adjust as necessary

If you leave your petcock on Prime, or if your petcock has failed, the crankcase can/will fill with gas thus showing the "oil" level to be overfilled. This is not actually "oil" but rather oil/gas mix. Not good.

And if it's a 450 (not sure if other models are applicable), *don't* screw the dipstick in to check, just sit it on top of the threads to read the level...

 

[snowmobilejon5000]

Try to remove the no 3 header and drop a bolt into the engine, don't ask.

 

[ndbaker]

n) Buying a $100 carb sync tool.

n2) Being a senior member who disrespects "newbs". All of us are GS riders/wrenchers. Most all seniors on this site are amazing and willing to help. Contrary to somebody's thoughts on 11/06/11, the seniors on this site are more willing and helpful than the menial "troubleshooting chapter" of my Clymer.

 

[UncleMike]

n) Buying a $100 carb sync tool.

A good carb sync tool is essential for these bikes.

 

[Dogma]

Perhaps he means buying one instead of building one. Still an arguable point, I guess, but I can at least see the point of view.

 

[Normk]

Anyone recall a MAP sensor which outputs voltage/resistance rather than frequency? If so, a MAP sensor from an automotive Pick-a-Part might be a useful tool for someone who does not own a purpose built sync tool..

I'll try to remember to ask some of my old tool customers, unless someone has the answer.

 

[The_Flash]

I may be a noob but this thread makes me realize just how much of a noob! So far on the main list I am going to have to adjust the valves, clean/replace brake system, inspect/reinforce charging system wiring, test the stator regulator and rectifier, replace the fuel petcock, change the oil (again with the right kind), and replace the front tire/valve stem. And if I get bored the intake boots n stuff since it doesn't act like it has an air leak right now.

Very helpful thread and the only one deserving of my first post.

 

[UncleMike]

I may be a noob but this thread makes me realize just how much of a noob! So far on the main list I am going to have to adjust the valves, clean/replace brake system, inspect/reinforce charging system wiring, test the stator regulator and rectifier, replace the fuel petcock, change the oil (again with the right kind), and replace the front tire/valve stem. And if I get bored the intake boots n stuff since it doesn't act like it has an air leak right now.

Very helpful thread and the only one deserving of my first post.

Great to have you, welcome aboard.

What kind of 'wrong' oil did you use?